2019 F350 6.2L 4WD build thread; HPI flatbed, ATO AterraXL composite camper, Carli/King, 37s, 4.88s, etc

CuStOm

Adventurer
The innov8 wheel only has a 3600lb rating so I'm not seeing the point in having tires rated much higher. Your level of analysis and geeking out is impressive though. What's do you estimate your worst case rgaw will be? What type of trailer are you considering?
I had a mechanical engineer whip me up a spreadsheet a few years ago to calculate rear axle weight due to different length trailer tongues and hitch extensions along with front axle weight reduction for a different project that I had a few years ago. I can probably dig it up and email it to you.
I just purchased a similar 2021 with the 7.3 to do a similar build but heavily considering the Total Composite flatbed. Time to step away from the 4x4 Sprinter. I'm enjoying watching your build.
Keith
 

mk216v

Der Chef der Fahrzeuge
The innov8 wheel only has a 3600lb rating so I'm not seeing the point in having tires rated much higher. Your level of analysis and geeking out is impressive though. What's do you estimate your worst case rgaw will be? What type of trailer are you considering?
I had a mechanical engineer whip me up a spreadsheet a few years ago to calculate rear axle weight due to different length trailer tongues and hitch extensions along with front axle weight reduction for a different project that I had a few years ago. I can probably dig it up and email it to you.
I just purchased a similar 2021 with the 7.3 to do a similar build but heavily considering the Total Composite flatbed. Time to step away from the 4x4 Sprinter. I'm enjoying watching your build.
Keith

KeithR!! Hahaha, such a small world eh? Have a look at the blue "Expo feature" link in my signature. Surprise! :D Happy to see you here. You know I love geeking out on the automotive stuff.

You're very right about the innov8 at 3600lbs, although it is forged so that counts for something in my book. Compare to the Method 704HD at 4500lb spec, but I assume it's cast for the price, yet it does have the Bead Grip technology which some have found valuable in their travels; https://www.methodracewheels.com/co...cts/704-hd-matte-black?variant=39351184785469
I'd just hate to see a 4500lb spec wheel be too brittle, although for either 3600lb or 4500lb, I'm not planning on shock stressing it in my travels, so I'd hope that either would do well.
Issue with the Method 704D for me is the +18mm offset (18x9"). That's 6mm inboard too much, would rub on the Carli radius arm. So I looked at H&R's site for an 8mm wheel spacer(as you probably know from your days, 8mm is typically the minimum to be considered hubcentric to the wheel, else the spacer doesn't have enough nose on it for the wheel to sit on); silly me, H&R doesn't offer any Ford truck stuff. And my searches thus far for 8x170mm spacers has turned up ones that at at least 1.5" thick! No German sportscar love for the big truck. ;)

Worst case GRAW; well I'm at 4900F and 3650R now. Most of the 1250lbs of ATO AterraXL will be over 70% of the rear but let's add 1250lbs to the rear, plus 100lbs of aluminum HPI boxes ahead of rear axle and 100lbs of the same aft of rear axle, plus less than 200lbs(?) ahead of rear axle in boxes and ~100lbs aft of rear axle in boxes, and eventually some beefier Carli/Deaver leaf springs, at times a portable rear winch, 2 5gal water jerries(25lbs), 4 Maxtrax...so adding in more fudge factor here, I hope to be less than 6000lbs GRAW? That's only 3000lb/ea rear corner, but going back to my post in the Load D or E thread (geek out on tires here; https://expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/37s-load-d-or-e.220996/page-4#post-3002676);
"Looking at the table at the very end of pg31 of the Toyo pdf, under 37x12.5x17 D load;
For front; weight spec at 20psi has no weight data, weight spec at 25psi is 2150lbs/ea corner.
For rear; weight spec at 30psi is 2470lbs/ea corner, weight spec at 35psi is 2755lbs/corner."
...yeah, D load tire doesn't offer enough support for the 3000lb/ea guesstimate.

For now, I'm still going to wait until I get a better idea of weight, mainly since I'm already on my second set of 5 Method's here (have a set of 5 new MR701's in 17"--you Revel'ers snagged the MR701 look LOL, now a set of 5 new MR703's in 17"), and while it may mean I have to wait longer to receive a set of innov8 18x9" wheels, I don't want to be sitting on 3 sets of new wheels.

Trailer already purchased; Cimarron aluminum 2horse bumper pull. Supposed to weigh in about 2800lbs dry. Add 1horse at 1650lbs = ~4500lbs of trailer, so the truck may not even feel it. I'm certainly not towing a trailer, on 37" D load's, like Peter/montypower is; https://expeditionportal.com/forum/...ruck-camper-build.216282/page-21#post-3002157. Again, he's a testament to offroad abuse, heavy trailer, more GVW due to camper, and still no issues on 37x12.5x17" Yoko Geolandar X-AT D load. He's at 6150lbs GRAW, so that means 3075lbs/ea (without trailer); https://expeditionportal.com/forum/...ruck-camper-build.216282/page-21#post-3002394 . Looking back at the Toyo load/psi table, that means he shouldn't be running lower than ~42psi in the rear. However, he runs 30-35psi in the rear; https://expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/37s-load-d-or-e.220996/page-4#post-3002676
Not saying that just because 1 Ford SuperDuty owner does it it's 100% safe, just sharing first hand info is all.
I would love to see your engineering document if you can find it. Thank you! Feel free to email me at work.

Sorry to hear you're moving on from the Revel, although I hope you've enjoyed your time in it so far. I miss my vans, there's just something about them(size, walk-thru), but we're really really looking forward to the truck camper. It's been many years in the making (I got close to buying a Revel and then completely upfitting it, but the unibody pushed me away. I would have made $$ on the deal by now though, that would have been a bonus).
I'm excited to have another Ford petrol flatbed camper close by. Send me a PM and let's geek further on campers(TC definitely has value, but I also have another suggestion for you to check out, and they're in Oregon) and mods! I look forward to following your build Keith.

-JW
 
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RAM5500 CAMPERTHING

OG Portal Member #183
I'm not planning on shock stressing it in my travels, so I'd hope that either would do well.

Yeah… no one plans to hit a hidden rock. Until they do

#overlanderlogic ??‍♂️

Only wheel I ever destroyed was one of the “Forged” TRD Rock Warrior wheels. Clipped a rock out in Death Valley and the wheel basically exploded. Pics of it are on my IG somewheres
 

Explorerinil

Observer
Honest Question (with a hint of snark)

Everyone with a Carli system always has to add that it’s a “PinTop”

All that means, literally, is that the shock has a threaded top and not an eyelet.

Why is that even mentioned or brought up?

Should I edit my build for my Kelderman “Eyelet” system?

?????
Carli pintop kits run larger 2.5 king shocks vs the 2.0 fox.
 

mk216v

Der Chef der Fahrzeuge
Look buddy, can't you combine your posts into 1? Someone told me to do that once...:rolleyes::LOL:

Honest Question (with a hint of snark)
Everyone with a Carli system always has to add that it’s a “PinTop”
All that means, literally, is that the shock has a threaded top and not an eyelet.
Why is that even mentioned or brought up?
Should I edit my build for my Kelderman “Eyelet” system?
?????

Yeah… no one plans to hit a hidden rock. Until they do
#overlanderlogic ??‍♂️
Only wheel I ever destroyed was one of the “Forged” TRD Rock Warrior wheels. Clipped a rock out in Death Valley and the wheel basically exploded. Pics of it are on my IG somewheres

To answer your first question, with some snark, if you had good suspension, then you'd already know the answer to this. Pintop in relation to Carli = King shocks; https://carlisuspension.com/product...inch-systems/2017-2-5-suspension-systems-gas/

So...you're saying that even a forged wheel doesn't mean strength to you.
Curious; do you remember the wheel load rating, and your rear corner weight?
 

RAM5500 CAMPERTHING

OG Portal Member #183
So...you're saying that even a forged wheel doesn't mean strength to you.
Curious; do you remember the wheel load rating, and your rear corner weight?

I mean they’re supposedly stronger, but ironically the only one I’ve ever broken.

Funny, after I broke it, I tried valiantly to look up the load rating of it and it’s like top secret stuff and could never find the #.

At the time I was admittedly about 500lbs over GVWR.

But I’m still not sure weight had anything at all to do with it, as I clipped a rock directly doing about 30mph and kaboom
 

CuStOm

Adventurer
There's this option too....seems to be working quite well. Oh wait, this is someone else's thread.... ??
 

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mk216v

Der Chef der Fahrzeuge
Kevin, you're damn hard on rigs I guess. Not very often a forged wheel goes kaboom.
Keith, let us know how you're liking the Toyo AT2's (3ply sidewall, but limited sizes. Crappy the new Toyo AT3's are only 2ply sidewall).
 

Explorerinil

Observer
Kevin, you're damn hard on rigs I guess. Not very often a forged wheel goes kaboom.
Keith, let us know how you're liking the Toyo AT2's (3ply sidewall, but limited sizes. Crappy the new Toyo AT3's are only 2ply sidewall).
I’ve had a set for a little over a year on my work truck. They are a good tire, work well on snowy and wet roads. A tad louder than the AT2, but not loud by any means. They are wearing very well and I would compare them with the falken wildpeak act’s I had on my power wagon.
 

RAM5500 CAMPERTHING

OG Portal Member #183
Kevin, you're damn hard on rigs I guess. Not very often a forged wheel goes kaboom.

No, i tend to drive more careful than most i think.

My point was to express nothing is bulletproof so the beefiest version of whatever you're looking at is usually the best choice.

My unsolicited advice to you is to WAIT and 100% hold off on wheels and tires until you get camper on and get it 100% fully loaded for a trip, THEN weigh it and make decisions based on the numbers.

As you're already seeing, the weight guessing game isn't a winnable game!

Take a step back and let everything else fall into place, and then get wheels and tires that will give you a 10-20% safety buffer for the weight.

Building things to be just under or right around GVWR doesnt take into account the rigors off roading.

When those GVWR numbers are calculated from the MFG, they are basing it on asphalt driving not being loaded up and going down dirt roads. A whole different ball of wax and additional stresses are applied.

Wait until you get the camper on, FULLY loaded, then start looking at tire/wheel options!

Give yourself a buffer.

My .02
-The Guy That Learned All This The Hard Way
 

RAM5500 CAMPERTHING

OG Portal Member #183
I just looked at those Innov8 wheels you mention. Holy $$$ Batman!

If you're looking at that much $ for wheels, also check out Trail Ready Beadlocks (Made in USA, DOT approved, available in cast and forged options, and lifetime warranty option)

Although they'd be an obvious lead time (which we all hate) they do a ton of custom work for any offset or size you could think of (Except for 10 lug options, this was my first idea for my wheels).


These are what we ran on the race truck with BFG T/A Project tires, and beat the snot out of them without issues.

More Unsolicited .02
 

andy_b

Well-known member
I just looked at those Innov8 wheels you mention. Holy $$$ Batman!

If you're looking at that much $ for wheels, also check out Trail Ready Beadlocks (Made in USA, DOT approved, available in cast and forged options, and lifetime warranty option)

Although they'd be an obvious lead time (which we all hate) they do a ton of custom work for any offset or size you could think of (Except for 10 lug options, this was my first idea for my wheels).


These are what we ran on the race truck with BFG T/A Project tires, and beat the snot out of them without issues.

More Unsolicited .02

Agreed on the TrailReady wheels. Idk why people don't run them more often.
 

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