2019 Ford Ranger Taking Orders

nickw

Adventurer
So smaller then the Colorado m200ifs. Probably start to get fragile with 33" tires. Maybe it is the equivalent to a dana 30? The rear m220 I believe is equivalent to a Dana 44.
I'm guessing closer to the traditional Dana 35. Dana really screwed up how they label these axles with the new "Advantek" nomenclature. I'm sure it was the please the Jeep crowd since they know and want the long standing traditional name "Dana XX" associated with it.

Yeah you are correct, the new "Dana 44" ring gear has actually decreased in size, 226mm to 220 mm, but is of equal strength to the old design, still called a "D44", so even with a smaller ring gear they've engineered additional strength into it.

The old Dana 30 was 7.2" ring gear, old Dana 35 was 7.6", current 190mm Advantek (Ranger) is 7.5". Assuming same logic as the D44 above, it's marginally stronger than the old style D35. I say old style because the current "D35" Advantek is 200mm, so it's increased in size + additional strength of the new design but they still call it a "D35". It's confusing.

Current Jeeps use a 186mm front Diff (Std) or a 210mm front diff (Rubi).

I'm guessing they upsized the Canyon due to the use of the locker on the ZR2 and just decided to stay with the same platform for non locked rigs - which is logical.
 

raintoy

New member
Seems like with the F150 guys are getting about 8-10% MSRP, which would be $3-$4k off asking price, so mid to high $30's for a Ranger, which feels about right. That may take a while though until these are produced in high quantity like the F150's.

Here in Oregon, at least at my local dealer, Toyota offers their "Clear" pricing which is non-negotiable, the Tacomas are about 5% off MSRP....maybe they are playing games with jacking up MSRP, who knows, but when I looked at them a year ago, it was 5% off what Toyota calls MSRP on the website:

https://www.beavertontoyota.com/new.../2019-toyota-tacoma-beaverton-oregon-35467387

*Edit - I agree on the used Taco prices. I bought a 2001 TRD/5spd manual in 2006 for $18.5k w/50,000 miles, sold it in 2011 for $14k w/150,000 miles.
Beaverton Toyota is proud of their trucks. Capital in Salem is better, get on their email list and they have some smokin deals.
 

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nickw

Adventurer
Update - so I've had my rig for a week or so now, about 300 miles on the clock.

1) Engine is an excellent match for the rig, drives a lot like my diesel VW, lots of torque and pulls strong through midrange, don't need to rev it hard to get moving.
2) Ride is very firm but I wouldn't call it harsh.
3) Tires are about 30.5", I bet you could step up to a true 32, but not much more in stock trim. They have some safety "wings" on the front, which are removable, just behind the front bumper, that limits tire height. Tire width, with stock backspacing, is limited by the spindle assembly as the stock rim + tire setup has less than a finger clearance, I'm guess 1/2" at most. Wider tires will need rims with less offset. The rear looks like it can accept 32+ pretty easily.
4) Transmission is pretty neat, there are essentially (4) settings, which is probably like a F150 but I've never driven one so don't know for sure:
  1. Std Drive - all 10 gears
  2. Std Drive with limited gears - you can 'limit' the number of gears in Drive by using the +/- button, essentially limiting the 10 spd to say 8. By the seat of my pants it seems like it retains std throttle sensitivity but effectively raises the RPM and shift points.
  3. Sport Mode, raises RPM, throttle is much more sensitive and it seems to hang in gears more especially on downshifts. De-activates auto stop / start.
  4. Manual Mode, use the +/- button and use it like a manual.
5) Transmission is a bit jerky at lower speeds, feels a bit like axle wrap loading / unloading.
6) Great visibility over hood and in general - much prefer it over the Tacoma.
7) Infotainment system is great - 10x better than my 2018 Audi, picks up bluetooth quickly and is generally really easy and intuitive.
8) Speakers are solid - no complaints but I'm not a audiophile.
9) Auto stop / start seems to be more "robust" than the F150. The typical trick with the big trucks is to plug in a 7 pin to 4 pin adapter which makes the truck think it's towing, which turns off auto stop / start....doesn't work on my rig and I've tried (2) different ones.
10) Small spec sheet / comparison I threw together:

1548972579832.png
 

Buliwyf

Viking with a Hammer
Not really. If your truck come with them, cool. But I don't recommend seaking them out.

IMO, the oem stereos are decent. But if your hardcore into that, you'll still need aftermarket. I might add a base tube, and higher quality front component group speaker. No big deal.
 

FordGuy1

Adventurer
Update - so I've had my rig for a week or so now, about 300 miles on the clock.

1) Engine is an excellent match for the rig, drives a lot like my diesel VW, lots of torque and pulls strong through midrange, don't need to rev it hard to get moving.
2) Ride is very firm but I wouldn't call it harsh.
3) Tires are about 30.5", I bet you could step up to a true 32, but not much more in stock trim. They have some safety "wings" on the front, which are removable, just behind the front bumper, that limits tire height. Tire width, with stock backspacing, is limited by the spindle assembly as the stock rim + tire setup has less than a finger clearance, I'm guess 1/2" at most. Wider tires will need rims with less offset. The rear looks like it can accept 32+ pretty easily.
4) Transmission is pretty neat, there are essentially (4) settings, which is probably like a F150 but I've never driven one so don't know for sure:
  1. Std Drive - all 10 gears
  2. Std Drive with limited gears - you can 'limit' the number of gears in Drive by using the +/- button, essentially limiting the 10 spd to say 8. By the seat of my pants it seems like it retains std throttle sensitivity but effectively raises the RPM and shift points.
  3. Sport Mode, raises RPM, throttle is much more sensitive and it seems to hang in gears more especially on downshifts. De-activates auto stop / start.
  4. Manual Mode, use the +/- button and use it like a manual.
5) Transmission is a bit jerky at lower speeds, feels a bit like axle wrap loading / unloading.
6) Great visibility over hood and in general - much prefer it over the Tacoma.
7) Infotainment system is great - 10x better than my 2018 Audi, picks up bluetooth quickly and is generally really easy and intuitive.
8) Speakers are solid - no complaints but I'm not a audiophile.
9) Auto stop / start seems to be more "robust" than the F150. The typical trick with the big trucks is to plug in a 7 pin to 4 pin adapter which makes the truck think it's towing, which turns off auto stop / start....doesn't work on my rig and I've tried (2) different ones.
10) Small spec sheet / comparison I threw together:

View attachment 497116
You can wire the auto stop/start so it never works. I hate it. It saves .10 MPG.
 

nickw

Adventurer
You can wire the auto stop/start so it never works. I hate it. It saves .10 MPG.
I don't like it either....but it's probably an unfounded concern, but just doesn't seem right to put added stress on the rig like that. I can see if you sit in a lot of stop and go traffic it can save fuel, but if it's constantly going on and off, that's gotta really reduce the lifespan of the starter or whatever mechanism it uses?
 

Todd n Natalie

OverCamper
Unfortunately, it seems the majority of new vehicles are going this route. You can disable most of them upon start up. But, it seems like a pain in the butt to have to do it every time you start the vehicle.

Huh. Did I just complain about the .0004 seconds it would take to do that? lol 1st world problems...
 

nickw

Adventurer
Unfortunately, it seems the majority of new vehicles are going this route. You can disable most of them upon start up. But, it seems like a pain in the butt to have to do it every time you start the vehicle.

Huh. Did I just complain about the .0004 seconds it would take to do that? lol 1st world problems...
You did - but it's the same complaint 90% of the people I talk to have so you are not alone. There is something to be said about simplicity. I rarely sit in traffic, have relatively short commutes and try to keep my rigs a long time....so for me it's annoying and seems that it will reduce the lifespan of some of the mechanical components of the vehicle....
 

FordGuy1

Adventurer
Unfortunately, it seems the majority of new vehicles are going this route. You can disable most of them upon start up. But, it seems like a pain in the butt to have to do it every time you start the vehicle.

Huh. Did I just complain about the .0004 seconds it would take to do that? lol 1st world problems...

Yes, to hit the switch every time, pain in the ass. You just pull the switch and connect two wires together and its permanent disabled.
 

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