2020 Ford F250 on 37s - Expedition Truck Camper Build!

We've had a bunch of messages about the aux tank and may do a video going into more details. We use a shaker siphon (gravity feed) to transfer fuel to the main tank. I've considered adding a port to the bottom of the aux tank and feeding into the primary tank with a ball valve to control... however, I haven't wanted to temper with the factory fuel system. This method is simple and reliable but does take 12 minutes or so...
So, 21 gallons in 12 minutes is 1.75GPM. Not bad for gravity. Is that with a 1/2 diameter siphon or 3/4? Do you have a purchase link? Thanks!
 

TonyCatmandu

New member
It took a couple years but I have followed all your posts and you tube vids. We have a bundutec hard-side that is similar size to your Northstar. I would not have been able to do this without your detailed write ups and videos. This is not intended to be a hijack but a THANK YOU. You have countless hours into your write up and videos and am guessing you are not doing it for the small $$ you may get from the tube.

I went a bit different route with full crew, 7.3, dual alternators and cloth interior but copied a lot of your build and advice overall. 2022 F250 with Carli 2.5/3.5 springs and assorted parts (see this threads first post for part details). Fox 2.5 resi all around. Fox ATS steering stabilizer. I did not modify the rear axle shock mounts and I still have the front swaybar with the carli links. Pulled the rear sway as I did not order the extended links in time for our last camping trip. Probably won't put it back as the truck did just fine. Deaver was likely too busy for my calls last year and emails so I went with Alcan. Not full replacement as I left the block. Level with 3k lbs. Front Warn Assent bumper but went with full guard as we are in MT and in the fall it is deer palooza coming home from fishing trips. Open road 13k lb winch (could not beat the price, time will tell if it was the right move) Method 705 titanium 18x9 with 5.75 offset. 37 inch Toyo AT3's. Still need to add air system and running boards / steps. Also need to add the wiring for the camper DC / DC charger. Again, copied you on that with a Renogy unit. I will post something in the hard-side camper thread but like the truck, copied a lot of what you and your wife did with the mods. Holding off on the steering assist and front locker for now as we don't tackle the tougher trails like you do. Overall goal was to maintain the functionality of the truck and to go down dirt roads and forest service roads without rattling our teeth out and shaking our camper apart. This rig will have the camper mounted 75% of the time.

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montypower

Adventure Time!
So, 21 gallons in 12 minutes is 1.75GPM. Not bad for gravity. Is that with a 1/2 diameter siphon or 3/4? Do you have a purchase link? Thanks!

We have the 1/2" diameter version. Easier to store and use (fits well into the filler neck). Been using it for over 3 years. We fill the aux tank nearly ever fill (except if staying in town).

Link:
 

montypower

Adventure Time!
@TonyCatmandu - Thanks so much for sharing your build and following along! It's great to see the inspiration you took and your build choices. It's fun to modify and build for your own needs and use. There are many routes to take with pros/cons to each.

Our goal is to provide ideas and show what is possible. YT has been a fun platform to share; not much for profit unless achieving multi-million video views. Great learning experience. More to come! :)

 

montypower

Adventure Time!

It’s replacement time! After 3 years and 32k miles!

Yokohama Geolandar XAT - 37x12.5R17 – Load D – 3,525 Capacity – 3 Ply Sidewalls – 19/32nds Tread Depth

Our tread depth is even on all four tires with each measuring at 7/32 (center) and 11/32 (edges). The crowning and cupping wear has been an issue since the first year of ownership. At the current rate of tread wear the center tread would likely achieve the 45k mileage warranty at 2/32 (center) tread depth. However, we will never know!

SOO noisy! The tread noise has become comparable to a mud terrain tire which is obnoxious on the highway. There is some light cracking developing (age related). And our tire plug failed causing the rear tire to go flat. Time for replacement.

Our first flat tire (10 months old) was from a bolt penetrating through a tread block (on road). The hole was plugged and the plug held for over two years. Not bad. Durability has been excellent. Off road traction has not disappointed: deep snow, rock, dirt and gravel. On one trip we had the tires aired down off road for nearly 30 days while traveling the Idaho BDR route of ~ 1,000 miles. No issues.

We have hauled heavy with the truck camper and enclosed trailer for several months and 3k miles. We’ve towed our dump trailer with 4 yards of gravel. Above all the tires have been reliable and durable.

On road they have only required balancing once in 3 years. They roll smoothly and track straight (no pulling) with good steering on center feel. Impressive for such a large diameter tire.

I’m guessing the tire crowning / cupping may be related to: tire carcass design, constant heavy weight or narrow wheel (8.5” wide – minimum required). It’s also possible that the tires were damaged when the Ford dealer overinflated the them to 80psi (max pressure 50psi) and it wasn’t discovered until several weeks later.

I’d recommend the tires with some reservation due to our tread wear issues. I’m guessing a wider wheel and lighter vehicle may not have the same trouble. Would be curious to hear others experiences.

Can you guess what the new tires will be??
 

mk216v

Der Chef der Fahrzeuge
@TonyCatmandu digging your F-Series, and those MR705's look awesome!

@montypower I followed your lead and have no complaints with my X-AT's, although they have very little mileage on them. On large turtleheads, 50psi street pressure at the time, sandy dirt getting a bit moist from recent rain, and the rocks were slick--I felt confident in these tires!
 
@montypower After you siphon from aux tank to factory vehicle tank, the siphon will still have residual gas/vapors in the hose.

Do you do anything to dry out the siphon, or do you just stash it somewhere on the exterior of the truck where it can vent to the outside air?
 

pjpvi

Observer
The original tuning was perfect when loaded with the adjusters turned up 2 clicks. We never adjusted them up over 2 clicks. When we were unloaded with the adjusters turned to zero the valving was a bit firm. We wanted to reduce the valving to allow for a more compliant ride unloaded.

The updated valving is much improved. LOVE THESE SHOCKS! We drove through a wash yesterday and it was like butter. At the same speed in our (stock) Tacoma it will bottom out several times and bounce all over. Will see how far the adjusters will need to be turned up while loaded.

Just check the bottom of the shock and lift the shock boot up a bit.

Yes, revalved + rebuilt all the shocks. Hopefully, will get 2+ years from this rebuild. But regardless these shocks are worth having for the performance!

Some great info in your thread. I'm curious what rear load weight you originally had the rear shocks valved for and what load weight did you have them re-valve for? Did you make any changes to the front shock valving from what you originally had? Thanks!
 

montypower

Adventure Time!
Some great info in your thread. I'm curious what rear load weight you originally had the rear shocks valved for and what load weight did you have them re-valve for? Did you make any changes to the front shock valving from what you originally had? Thanks!

Rear suspension is setup for 3,500lb constant load. Typically the camper and truck fully loaded is ~ 3,000lbs. The enclosed trailer adds 400-500lb tongue weight which transfers weight from the front axle for ~ 750lb increase on the rear axle.

Shock re-valve was 1 step down from original valving front/rear. It helps make the unloaded ride less harsh (shocks adjusted down). However, I prefer the original valving when fully loaded with towing. The re-valve is good adjusted all the way up with just the camper. Everything is a compromise. But I want the performance while fully loaded.

We just purchased the Icon electronic valve shocks (another build); it will be exciting to see how those do. It will be sweet to adjust on the fly vs manually turning knobs. I'd guess it's only a matter of time before Fox and King join the electronic control.
 

pjpvi

Observer
Rear suspension is setup for 3,500lb constant load. Typically the camper and truck fully loaded is ~ 3,000lbs. The enclosed trailer adds 400-500lb tongue weight which transfers weight from the front axle for ~ 750lb increase on the rear axle.

Shock re-valve was 1 step down from original valving front/rear. It helps make the unloaded ride less harsh (shocks adjusted down). However, I prefer the original valving when fully loaded with towing. The re-valve is good adjusted all the way up with just the camper. Everything is a compromise. But I want the performance while fully loaded.

We just purchased the Icon electronic valve shocks (another build); it will be exciting to see how those do. It will be sweet to adjust on the fly vs manually turning knobs. I'd guess it's only a matter of time before Fox and King join the electronic control.
Thanks for the info. I just ordered King shocks from AccuTune yesterday and talked through the hole what do you tune for as I anticipate only having the camper on when on trips and off otherwise. I'm expecting my camper build to come in around 2500 lbs so having them tune for that. I may come in a bit more than that, but still building out the camper so don't know yet. Getting adjustable shocks in the rear and non-adjustable up front as I'm expecting the rear load not to alter the front too much. We'll see if that holds true or not. They are telling me to expect an unloaded ride as if the axle is bolted to the frame. My shake down trip is 3 months in Mexico so I should have a pretty good feel if I got it right or not when I get back from that. Thanks again.
 

montypower

Adventure Time!
I think you'd notice more benefit having the front shocks adjustable and rear static. You'll gain more ride improvement from the front suspension unloaded with adjustable shocks. Adjustable rear shocks combined with leaf springs built for hauling weight won't change the ride quality drastically... I've removed the rear shocks to test the theory and the ride is still firm/harshish while unloaded with HD leaf pack (even with progressive springs). In addition... the front shocks are easier to adjust (rear requires crawling under the truck). That's my thoughts from 3.5yrs of lots of use on/off road and various conditions.

Dropping air pressure while unloaded is a huge help too; especially with 37s on 17" wheels where the tire sidewall is tall enough to help cushion the ride. ARB air compressors are hard to beat. We love having 2 single ARB compressors! It allows for the driver and passenger side to air up simultaneously and make for fun competition with the wife (she does the passenger side).

Tip: Nitto and Toyo (possibly other brands) customer service (phone them) can provide recommended tire pressure for actual tire you have. Toyo also has a tire inflation table. This is helpful once you have the axle weights to dial in the loaded/unloaded "safe" tire pressures. Off road under 45mph you can get away with lower pressures. Speed increases sidewall heat; too low of pressure is the cause of most catastrophic tire failure. Deeper tire tread generates more heat. Reducing speed is safer on the hwy.
 
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pjpvi

Observer
Time will tell on the shocks. I'm a fan of using tire air pressure to my advantage as well. I have 35" Nitto Recon Grapplers on 18" rims and, so far, love them. I can't believe how well they are wearing with a bit over 20K miles on them. Definitely keep the air pressure lower when unloaded. Also a believer of ARB dual compressor. I have one installed under the hood with a 4 gallon tank under the flatbed. I do a lot of airing down and up on my trips but no competitions with the wife!
 

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