2020 Jeep gladiator rubicon

Jc1986.carter

Active member
So I have had a gladiator for almost a year now and have loved it. It’s been a slow build since it’s pretty complete for what I need it for which is just day to day driving and some camping/ wheeling in the near by state park.
I do have a question for those who are in the know about suspension.

What are the pros and cons to linear and progressive springs? I understand the basics, like progressive rate springs have two or more “zones” where there is an increase in resistance (mas o menos), is that about right?

thanks in advance

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SlickRope

Member
Without getting crazy scientific I think your right about the two zones. I have never ran progressive on any of my jeeps, but some companies swear by them ie.Metalcloak. I'm still waiting to order my gladiator, but after researching I'm goin to go with the AEV or clayton lift. These (to me) seem like the best bang for my buck with the way I want mine built. I want to stay low and carry a lot of gear. I like buying springs and socks from the same company especially if they valve them for their lift.
 
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Jc1986.carter

Active member
Without getting crazy scientific I think your right about the two zones. I have never ran progressive on any of my jeeps, but some companies swear by them ie.Metalcloak. I'm still waiting to order my gladiator, but after researching I'm goin to go with the AEV or clayton lift. These (to me) seem like the best bang for my buck with the way I want mine built. I want to stay low and carry a lot of gear. I like buying springs and socks from the same company especially if they valve them for their lift.
Clayton seems to be very popular but their advertised height seems to be pretty conservative, many owners have found their 2.5” to be more like 3.5 or higher. Quality stuff none the less and have great customer service. The AEV kit seems like the best one for what I was intending my Jeep to be, which is a great daily driver and a road trip vehicle.I figured I could beat the break over angle a bit much which is why I went with the 2” eibach and bilsteins. Trying to keep it as low as possible to stop crapping the belly and still manageable for my hobbit height self to get into. I’m really looking forward to getting time to install everything and in particular the durometer bump stops.
 

montechie

Active member
Accutune has a decent description of progressive vs linear vs digressive, especially look at the damping curve graph. I personally really liked having Icons (digressive) on a 3rd gen Tacoma, it cornered like a dream even with the extra weight of mods, etc. So far my Gladiator Rubicon with the stock Fox (linear I think?) feel fairly softer on small bumps but not as firm for fast corners and pavement. I wouldn't think progressive would be very good for anything at high speeds + corners, but most of my experience with progressive shocks are for two wheels (moto or MTB).
 

billiebob

Well-known member
Most often linear springs are fine. If you are always carrying the same load they will deliver consistent performance. The progressive rates are a response to coil springs taking over from leaf springs. With leaf springs trucks were built with overload leafs which engaged as load was loaded.... hence ALL heavier pickups had a natural rake. They levelled out as the load increased.

In my mind, progressive springs for load handling are retarded, just add air bags,

Progressive springs for "Jeeps" as opposed to pickups were about increasing resistance as the suspension compresses giving a soft cushy ride araound town and a responsive ride over major bumps off road.

Progressives in a Gladiator won't help with the ride empty vs loaded nor will they actually level the truck.

Decide, do you want a compliant ride under constant load or do you want a level ride empty and loaded.
Progressives vs air bags. Gladiators are built for air bags. I bet eventually they will be a factory option.

A lot of sports cars and luxury cars have progressive spring rates. Constant load, luxury ride, sporty handling.
 
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Dan Grec

Expedition Leader
Very, *very* soon you'll be able to buy the AEV kit with their "heavy load springs", which are designed for a constant load of 500-600lbs+, and net closer to 3 inches than the regular 2.5.

I'll post feedback on how it performs shortly :)

-Dan
 

Jc1986.carter

Active member
Not going to lie, the eibach springs and Bilstein 5100s have been a great setup for me so far. The rear holds weight a lot better and the on road comfort is better. I did about 2000miles in less than two weeks back in December and compared to the stock setup I had way less fatigue and the truck was far more composed on the highway making for a more enjoyable experience.

@Dan Grec, I just saw the Aev heavy load springs this weekend. Seems like a great option; that and I think dobinson has heavy load springs too now.
 

Crikeymike

Adventurer
@Dan Grec, I just saw the Aev heavy load springs this weekend. Seems like a great option; that and I think dobinson has heavy load springs too now.
Yeah, 2" and 3" rear heavy load options now from Dobinsons.


Here are all the Dobinsons rear coil options:
C29-229V - 2" Lift with Stock Load up to 220LBS
C29-243V - 2" Lift with 440-660LBS Rear End Load
C29-245V - 2" Lift with 880-1210LBS Rear End Load
C29-233V - 3" Lift with Stock Load
C29-247V - 3" Lift with 440-660LBS Rear End Load (BLACK ONLY)
C29-249V - 3" Lift with 880-1210LBS Rear End Load (BLACK ONLY)
 

camodog

Adventurer
Yeah, 2" and 3" rear heavy load options now from Dobinsons.


Here are all the Dobinsons rear coil options:
C29-229V - 2" Lift with Stock Load up to 220LBS
C29-243V - 2" Lift with 440-660LBS Rear End Load
C29-245V - 2" Lift with 880-1210LBS Rear End Load
C29-233V - 3" Lift with Stock Load
C29-247V - 3" Lift with 440-660LBS Rear End Load (BLACK ONLY)
C29-249V - 3" Lift with 880-1210LBS Rear End Load (BLACK ONLY)
Thank you for posting this. Now do I get 2” or 3”? Hmm
 

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