2020 Northstar Liberty - Expedition Truck Camper Build!

[montypower]

Yes, we are using the Happijac. Think we mentioned the remote capabiliy... don't recall.

It wasn't intentional to go 3 leg (not ideal). We had to reposition the block under the leg at one point. It's much easier in the shop or level ground. But off road has unique challenges! Thanks for sharing

 

[montypower]

Torklift International offers top notch products for the RV, truck and camper industries. They design quality products specifically to resolve common issues and problems.

Steps may seem boring but they provide ease and safety vs climbing into your truck camper. Not having stairs has proven challenging at times especially when Faith injured her arm. We used rock boulders and tree stumps to make the climb into the camper easier. However, the Torklift SmartSteps are a much better solution!

Stair Options:

SmartStep (like what we have)
https://www.torklift.com/rv/glowstep

SmartStep Stow N’ Go (allows for traveling with steps outside)

GlowStep Stow N' Go

Torklift International manufactures towing hitches, camper tiedowns and stabilizers, for all types of camper and towing requirements.

www.torklift.com

Revolution Uprising Step (mounts inside the door and flips inside for travel)
https://www.torklift.com/rv/glowstep-revolution-uprising

Revolution (mounts under the camper/trailer)
https://www.torklift.com/rv/glowstep-revolution

There are additional “accessories” that can be added: Landing Gear (adjustable feet), Handrail, Locks, Basement Step, SafeStep… You can also add/remove stairs as needed to match your entry height. It’s great having the ability to customize the stairs to fit your unique camper and needs!

We will keep you updated as we test the steps on our upcoming adventures and share additional thoughts and feedback.

 

[montypower]

Torklift International offers top notch products for the RV, truck and camper industries. They design quality products specifically to resolve common issues and problems.

We’ve been using the FastGun Turnbuckles for 2 years now! Our previous truck used the Torklift Frame Tie Downs. Our current truck has custom welded rock sliders and steel rear bumper used for the FastGun attachment. FastGun Turnbuckles are by far the best way to secure your Truck Camper especially for off road use!

Primary benefits:
1. Fast: install/removal – preset for each location.
2. Secure: internal spring provides constant tension yet allows for movement.
3. Durable: holds up well over time.
4. Warranty: lifetime for the original owner.

Truck camper turnbuckles - Industrial turnbuckle | Original FastGuns

Sold in sets of 2. Each piece is precision-made from High-Impact Powder-Coated Stainless-Steel, comes Spring Loaded and includes Spring Tension Indicators and o

www.torklift.com

 

[ripperj]

Just wanted to thank you for all the videos , I know it takes a ton of time to record and edit!

I have an Adventurer 8.5 which is basically a flipped around longer floor plan version of a liberty.

Our brains seem to work the same , many of the mods that you did are on my plate, glad you got there first.

I previously had a N* popup that I did a nice solar setup , but got tired of the canvas blowing and being damp when I closed up. I seriously , very seriously miss the lower profile. I saw you mentioned your height, and I think I’m higher (10’10”?? , I just changed and didn’t remeasure)

I really like the under camper drawer that you did. I raised my camper with the intent of making under floor storage (accessed from the inside, but I may combine that with your drawer/jack storage. I really like having the jacks with the truck, but right now they are in the crew cab. I would have never thought of the jack storage… awesome idea! Considering N* brags about being a non-basement camper, there is a ton of wasted space under the camper. (What’s the point of storing air!)

The one thing that is holding me off is I’m 90 percent sure I’m going to make a flatbed with side boxes- it just opens up to so much more storage down low. (I have a 3500, so have some payload to play with). So I would have more options for storage and may enlarge the stock N* fender well access doors by the camper floor to access the outside tool boxes. I can add a drawer to the bed like sone of the big$ flatbed manufacturers.

I went to buy an inflatable paddle board last summer, but got side tracked with a small inflatable boat, (I get distracted easy when there are too many awesome options ). So i need to figure that out. They don’t pack very small.

Anyway keep doing the videos …. Don’t change your(and Faiths) style .. too many videos on IG and Facebook are hard to watch, people basically bragging how great they/their stuff/and their life is.
I like that you keep it real(admitting that you never did something and are somewhat budget conscious), and you don’t sound like a rep for the company (pros and cons!!)( maybe the Torklift stuff . )


Thx
Keith


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Proo

 

[montypower]

Appreciate the encouragement! We do hope to help share ideas and inspiration.

I agree on the popup camper! We enjoyed ours especially the low overall travel height (8ft on the Tundra). We are now just under 11ft (including the vents). But can't beat the comfort. My wife wouldn't trade back...

Keep in mind if you go the flatbed route.... you'll be raising the floor height increasing the overall height. Unless you remove the "basement" and lower the camper. Biggest challenge with SRW trucks is the rear tire load capacity. Keep that in mind when adding weight. Flatbeds do offer great storage solutions. But we like the lighter weight of the factory bed.

Thanks for sharing your journey. Have fun!

 

[dayHiker]

This is an update from my post on May 10, 2021 about power usage. That post was for non-winter camping.

I have completed my first two winter camping trips with my 2021 Liberty. One to Ashville (20-50F) and one to NM/CO/UT (10F-40F) for skiing. Before going I added another 175W Renogy solar panel for a total of 350W. I also added a small 100W heater under the sink and a 80W heating pad to the gray water tank.

On average, I used 50% of my 200 amp-hr battery set up (two group 31 AGM batteries) each 24 hours. The main draw was the heater fan and the gray tank heating pad. I did not use the under sink heater except during driving when the main heater was off. During the evening and night, inside temp was set to low, about 50F. I have good clothing and a nice down blanket. I would also use a computer, cell phone and tablet each day that needed to be charged.

The solar setup is not optimized for sun angle. The two panels are just mounted flat on the cab over section. I did try to angle the truck to the south to get the best sun. I would get 200-240 of the 350W max for a good 5-6 hours daily when parked (sunny day). This was sufficient to recharge the batteries. When driving, 5-6 hours was also good enough to recharge the batteries.

Due to the lower solar charging and higher heating draw (fan, heating pad) when compared to summer, I needed the 2nd solar panel. In the previous post, I stated that one 175W panel was sufficient, but that was non-winter camping (but still at high altitudes with low temperatures at night - 40's).

The two AGM batteries worked well. Someday I would like to move to lithium but that would mean I need to change my converter to charge lithium batteries. As for now, the AGM work well and are cheaper. Plus, the two group 31 batteries fit nicely in the non-modified battery space.

A side comment. I did experience condensation around the windows and door where the metal frame goes through the wall. The door was the worse and even had some ice near the floor. There was also some condensation on the front section of the cab over where my head was located when sleeping. Considering temperatures were 10-20F at night and there is cold air on all sides of the cab over, I was not surprised the front wall has some moisture when though it is fairly well insulated. Note, I used the shower and inside propane heating at times (3 CO detectors and vent cracked open when in use) so there was moisture generated. Overall, condensation not sever but is an issue. Will try using a small 12v dehumidifier next winter.

All in all, I loved using my camper for the ski trip. Many places I could stay over night for free or minimal fee. Saved a bundle on resort hotels. Also very convenient to have a place to add or remove clothing during the day of skiing (and to have a hot drink or snack).

 

[montypower]

@dayHiker - Thanks for the update! Glad your updated setup is working well.

A diesel heater may resolve your condensation issues and increase cold weather comfort. They can run continuously on low with around 1amp power draw and use about 1 gallon of fuel per 24 hrs. Extremely quiet! Consistent heat allows interior to radiate heat vs cold.

We've been using one in our trailer... it will be the next modification to the Liberty camper.

 

[dayHiker]

Wow, you were reading my mind. Yes, I have started to look into replacing the Dometic propane heater with a diesel heater.

The biggest reason is the original Dometic propane heater has big problems with elevation. I have been trying to deal with them for 8 months to repair or replace the current heater since it is still under warranty. It does not work in moderately high elevations (i.e most Colorado camp grounds). I know, propane heaters must be adjusted for elevation, but Dometic does not even have any guidelines for that. Even Rex (president of NorthStar) is even frustrated with Dometic. It would take pages to document all the interactions (or lack of interactions) with Dometic on this topic.

If anyone else has problems with elevation with the Dometic heater used in the NorthStar campers, I would enjoy knowing.

I am really, really looking forward to your installation of a diesel heater. You guys are great at modifications, and I am sure you will save everyone a lot of headaches. My plan to reuse the propane heater space for the diesel heater. Should gain some space. Not sure if I would put the exhaust/intake pipes on the side or on the bottom surface where it sits above the wheel area. Ideally, I would also like to seal and insulate the propane heater access panel. It is a large source of heat loss (I have analyzed it with a thermal camera).

 

[montypower]

Our Dometic heater has worked fine so far. We've been up around 9k foot... It's been trouble free.

But propane creates moisture. The heater is oversized for the camper. Which is fine for quick heat up but terrible for maintaining temperature. It's noisy. And rather thirsty (considering run time). Plus, it only has one mode FULL or OFF. We typically leave the heater @ 55 degrees and warm it to 65-70 degrees while inside. Our electric blanket is a massive help while hanging out inside. We leave the cabinets open when in the single digits to help limit frost build up.

I agree the exterior access panel and all the cutouts are big heat loss areas. But realistically, campers are poorly insulated (at best) especially compared to a house. You really just need constant heat input to offset the constant cold penetration.

We are planning to keep our propane through this summer... but this fall/winter the camper will be getting upgraded. Getting rid of the propane will be a game changer. Really excited for this!

 

[dayHiker]

Thanks for note about your Dometic DFSD12-111 (type used in the Liberty) heater. Glad to know the Dometic unit is capable of high elevations. Big help.

As I have long suspected, I think I have a lemon. Had problems above 8,000 ft last summer and fall (sometimes above 6,000 when below freezing). Checked the ignitor space above burner pan as suggested by Rex. Was just fine. Dometic told me to take it in and have it checked by a certified technician (done under warranty). But the I live at 1,000 ft, so of course the technician did not find any problem (did checked everything, however). This was done in Dec. before my recent ski trips. Now it will not ignite above 3,000 ft. I know, should not have had a technician check it, lol. I have checked propane pressure and tested on four different bottles of propane.

As you mentioned, propane will create water vapor when burning. But for safety reasons all combustion, including the water vapor, with RV propane heaters are vented to the outside (one big reason propane heaters are not very efficient, half the heat goes outside with the vented gasses). This is required so carbon monoxide (CO) will not build up in the living space. Thus, a standard RV propane heater (not stove or Buddy heater) will not add moisture to the living area.

Diesel heater combustion gasses are also vented outside (if installed as per instruction) to avoid CO in the living area even though. As you mentioned, it is a dry combustion but it does not really matter since it is vented outside.

From what I have read, diesel heater still have some elevation issues, but not as much as propane. Both need less gas or diesel delivered to the combustion chamber due to less oxygen at high altitude. With propane this is done with a smaller orifice (Dometic does not have a smaller orifice available, I have asked). For Diesel it is done by changing the pump cycle frequency (can be electronically changed with the control monitor). If there is too much diesel there will be soot build up. Some say kerosene can be used at high elevation without any soot build up. Makes sense since kerosene is a very clean fuel but more expensive.

Like you, I also want to use the diesel for all the same reasons you give. But more importantly, I want the elevation controllability. Plus I also like the idea of two heating sources, propane using the stove (with venting) and diesel with dedicated vented heater.

I suspect I will be adding mine this summer unless Dometic figures out how to fix my unit (hoping for a replacement). Then I might put it off and learn from you. If I do install it, I will report back here on my success (or failure).

 

[tacollie]

Thanks for note about your Dometic DFSD12-111 (type used in the Liberty) heater. Glad to know the Dometic unit is capable of high elevations. Big help.

As I have long suspected, I think I have a lemon. Had problems above 8,000 ft last summer and fall (sometimes above 6,000 when below freezing). Checked the ignitor space above burner pan as suggested by Rex. Was just fine. Dometic told me to take it in and have it checked by a certified technician (done under warranty). But the I live at 1,000 ft, so of course the technician did not find any problem (did checked everything, however). This was done in Dec. before my recent ski trips. Now it will not ignite above 3,000 ft. I know, should not have had a technician check it, lol. I have checked propane pressure and tested on four different bottles of propane.

As you mentioned, propane will create water vapor when burning. But for safety reasons all combustion, including the water vapor, with RV propane heaters are vented to the outside (one big reason propane heaters are not very efficient, half the heat goes outside with the vented gasses). This is required so carbon monoxide (CO) will not build up in the living space. Thus, a standard RV propane heater (not stove or Buddy heater) will not add moisture to the living area.

Diesel heater combustion gasses are also vented outside (if installed as per instruction) to avoid CO in the living area even though. As you mentioned, it is a dry combustion but it does not really matter since it is vented outside.

From what I have read, diesel heater still have some elevation issues, but not as much as propane. Both need less gas or diesel delivered to the combustion chamber due to less oxygen at high altitude. With propane this is done with a smaller orifice (Dometic does not have a smaller orifice available, I have asked). For Diesel it is done by changing the pump cycle frequency (can be electronically changed with the control monitor). If there is too much diesel there will be soot build up. Some say kerosene can be used at high elevation without any soot build up. Makes sense since kerosene is a very clean fuel but more expensive.

Like you, I also want to use the diesel for all the same reasons you give. But more importantly, I want the elevation controllability. Plus I also like the idea of two heating sources, propane using the stove (with venting) and diesel with dedicated vented heater.

I suspect I will be adding mine this summer unless Dometic figures out how to fix my unit (hoping for a replacement). Then I might put it off and learn from you. If I do install it, I will report back here on my success (or failure).

The Dometics are hit and miss. Ours has been fine up to 10,500. Our friends have the same unit and it works 60% of the time. I would plan on replacing your Dometic with anything else.

 

[Ninelitetrip]

One idea. We're the Russos did a swap in the FWC flatbed from the Dometic to the Truma Vario heat. They covered it in a YT video. Top 5 Truck and Camper mods.

 

[dayHiker]

Wow, what a great forum group. Thanks everyone.

Tocllie, glad you have no problems. Like your friends, I have must have gotten a lemon. Pushing Dometic to replace, but without a lawyer, doubt it will happen.

NineLiteTrip, great idea with the Truma VaioHeat. Rated to 11,000 ft. Can tap into my propane and avoid deisel. BUT, the cost is very high on eBay ($1,200 - 2,000). Cannot seem to find them at discount dealers or Amazon.

As of now, I think I will try the diesel heater. At less than $200 (self install), hard to go wrong. This will also give me the two fuel option to heating. Biggest downside, I have to carry another fuel type.

 

[montypower]

As you mentioned, propane will create water vapor when burning. But for safety reasons all combustion, including the water vapor, with RV propane heaters are vented to the outside (one big reason propane heaters are not very efficient, half the heat goes outside with the vented gasses). This is required so carbon monoxide (CO) will not build up in the living space. Thus, a standard RV propane heater (not stove or Buddy heater) will not add moisture to the living area.

Diesel heater combustion gasses are also vented outside (if installed as per instruction) to avoid CO in the living area even though. As you mentioned, it is a dry combustion but it does not really matter since it is vented outside.

You are correct. Both heater designs are vented outside.

However, you are not correct on the dry heat of the diesel heater. We've been using one for 3 months (as primary heat source) everyday. It absolutely dries out the air. No condensation on windows. It is extremely effective drying the air. I think you'll be surprised by it.

 

[montypower]

One idea. We're the Russos did a swap in the FWC flatbed from the Dometic to the Truma Vario heat. They covered it in a YT video. Top 5 Truck and Camper mods.

I'd stay away from this. Still has the problem of burning propane. Not efficient. WTR rarely camp in cold weather. The one video they stay in the snow was requiring their propane bottle to be refilled every day and they were lowering the roof to limit heat loss. Propane is just not the best heating solution.