2020 Overland Explorer Vehicles (OEV) CAMP-X pop-up slide-in pickup camper (renamed "Back Country" as of 2023)

Chadx

♫ Off road, again. Just can't wait to get...
Very cool. I've seen a trend of owners putting various manufacturers' slide-in campers on flatbeds. The handy owners often build cabinets/enclosures similar to this or purchased appropriately-sized ready-made containers, tools chests, trunks, etc. to fill in where the bedrails would typically be. I'm also a really big fan of the Sherptek flatbeds and their drop sides. Though those are not enclosed, they are great for not only if one chooses to have a slide-in camper on a flatbed, but even more handy for when the camper is of the truck. Having enclosures, like the new OEV solution, provides an added dimension of security and protection from the elements.
For me personally, if I go to the expense of changing to a flatbed, I'd also change to a flatbed camper, but I do see the benefits of this solution and it's great to have options.
 

Ninelitetrip

Well-known member
It also adds to the modularity. Push the batteries outside or add more water, storage for wet gear, gain inside storage. Lots of possibilities.
 

victorc

Active member

This is going to be installed on my truck sometime in April.

The reason for us to want this is pretty simple: We will never use the truck "as a truck" and we have too many gearswith us (from climbing ropes to skis). So we need a lot of storage space, and we don't like having everything wet or dirty in the back of the cab.

I did reach out to Sherptek, and Highway Product. Sherptek is great but their lead time is over 10 months and their upper tray storage boxes are not technically weatherproof.

Working with OEV on this was my preferred choice, and I am glad they accepted! I really appreciate them taking the time to research, prototype and respond to customer requests like this one. That's what really make them a great company to me!

Attached, images from their website showing more details than their Instagram post. I will share more once it's installed.
 

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victorc

Active member
For me personally, if I go to the expense of changing to a flatbed, I'd also change to a flatbed camper, but I do see the benefits of this solution and it's great to have options.

We thought about going this way originally, but that was not solving our storage problem. Also, we do not want a shower/toilet inside our camper, we don't have the need and that would be a waste of space. Finally, I would miss the window from our Camp-X that is not available on the HBE unfortunately :(

Like you said, having options is fantastic!
 
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Shawn M

New member
I ordered a 2021 Camp-X through Big Sky and was just informed it will not have the lithium battery with heater from Overlandex I ordered. Apparently, they can not get batteries at this time. Could someone recommend a high quality lithium battery that will fit the 2021 Camp-X? Heater is essential and I may have got carried away when I ordered it considering it was $500.
 

Chadx

♫ Off road, again. Just can't wait to get...
Hi Shawn. What brand lithium was the one OEV offered for $500 that included an internal battery heating element? And how many amp hours? That seems like a crazy good deal if it's 100Ah battery with internal heating element. Then again, that was likely an 'upgrade' price and so is only the price difference between the cost of the AGM and the Lithium. Still, a good way to do it because you may not have a use for the AGM that it will now come with if you are going to change to a lithium battery.

Battleborn 100Ah with no element is $900. With built-in heating element is $1,050. Both are 12.75L × 6.875W × 9H inches. My no-element Battleborn just arrived though I have not installed it yet. Originally I was going to use a SOK battery as the tear-down reviews and tests have proven them a high quality yet economical battery. Unfortunately, both the 100Ah ($570 and 11.42L × 7.87W × 7.87H inches ) and 206Ah ($1,029 and 11.42L × 7.87W × 11.02H inches) SOK batteries will not fit into a stock CAMP-X battery box because they are too wide (7.87" compared to the Battlebornes 6.875" width). More specifically, they will fit inside the battery box, but are too big (wide) to put into the battery box. I have recommended to OEV that they implement an external battery box door to access the battery box. This would greatly simply battery removal and installation and allow a much larger battery to be installed. To install larger batteries currently, one has to cut out the battery box.

The SOK 206Ah would easitly fit within the battery box, but with the configuration, one can't move it in place without cutting out a good portion of the battery box. The smaller Battleborn 100Ah is my backup plan and the width and height are basically the same as the stock AGM battery that came with my camper, though it's a bit longer than the stock battery. That stock AGM was EXTREMELY tight coming out. But from my measurements and the fitment of a mocked up battery-sized model, the 100Ah Battleborn will fit. I might remove the breaker and shunt to give a bit more clearance when sliding it in, but the newer campers have the shunt and breaker tucked away over by the REDARC to give more clearance removing and installing a battery. A disappointment that I could not fit the 206Ah SOK and will have to settle for a 100Ah battery. I'm not willing to house the battery/batteries in the under-fridge cabinet because I need that for storage.

You are likely aware, but for other readers' info, one can draw from a lithium battery even when the battery is well below freezing. The issue is lithium will be damaged if charged while it is below freezing. That is why lithium batteries come with an internal Battery Management System (BMS) with internal temp sensors that won't allow inbound current if the cells are below freezing. BMS will also cut disconnect the battery if there other issues (overheating, overdrawn, overcharged, etc.). Some lithium batteries are now offered with the internal heating elements, that you mentioned, which will slowly warm the battery cells to above freezing to allow charging to occur in a sub-freeing environment. There are alternatives to buying a battery with an internal heating element. 12v heating elements are very economical and you can wire and switch one under any lithium battery in your battery box and it will do the same thing; warm your battery when the switch is turned on. Like the internally heated lithium, in extremely sub-freezing temps, it will can take an hour or two to get it up to a temp where the BMS will accept a charge. The simple/cheap 12v heating elements come in all shapes, sizes and wattage and will do the same thing as an internal element.

While actively using the camper, the interior will be above freezing and/or the battery will stay warm if you are drawing power from it and so you won't need to heat the battery. If one is in a situation where you are leaving the heat off all day long but want to ensure the battery stays warm enough so solar input, shore power or the alternator (while driving) can charge it, then one needs the battery to be over freezing and internal or external 12v heating elements are a good way to do that.

Keep in mind that the REDARC, when set to Lithium, will not charge if the battery box temperature is below freezing. So even though your battery may be above freezing and the BMS would allow charging, if the REDARC sensor detects below freezing, it will not send current to a lithium battery (not solar, not shore power, not truck power). I don't know if a heating element (internal to the battery or external underneath it) would keep the battery terminal (which is where the REDARC sensor is located) warm enough to keep the REDARC sensor happy. It may. Or you could trick the REDARC sensor by warming it which would then send REDARC current to the battery and then you could rely on the battery BMS to decide if the battery is warm enough to accept inbound current.

You'll also want to plug both battery box vent holes. They are not needed when using AGM or lithium batteries and are there in case a future user ever put in a standard flooded lead acid battery which must be vented to the outside. Plug those vents to keep the cold out of your battery box and have a better chance of the REDARC sensor allowing lithium charging and better chance of keeping our batteries above freezing. The battery is in the way of plugging those so do while swapping out the battery and the battery box is empty.
 
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Chadx

♫ Off road, again. Just can't wait to get...
Here are some of the pertinent REDARC specs copied from the manual. Of note is the GEL and lithium settings will not send current if battery sensor is below 32F. It will also not send current to other battery types below 32F if the voltage is less than 10.5v (because below 10.5v, a lead acid can freeze solid and pushing current to a frozen solid lead acid battery is dangerous).

----------------------------------

Operating Temperature: -40°F to 176°F
SLA, AGM, or Calcium Charging Temperature: -13°F - 140°F (32°F - 140°F when Vop <10.5V)
GEL or LiFePO4 Charging Temperature: 32°F - 140°F

-----------------------------------------

11. The Manager30 has a separate battery sensor to monitor battery conditions and state of charge even while The Manager30 is in standby mode. The battery sensor monitors current, voltage and temperature of the house batteries.

...The Battery Positive Lead connects to the house battery positive terminal, this lead measures voltage and temperature at the battery.

-----------------------------------------------
Note that if you trigger the "Output battery under temperature fault", meaning your lithium battery is below freezing, the REDARC will not reset and start charging again until it senses the battery temp is above 41F.

Error ""Output battery under temperature fault". Cause: "Output battery is below 32°F" - Charger will halt charging until battery is above 41°F
 
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Shawn M

New member
Chadx, The overlandex battery was $1,500... $500 was for the built-in heater. Big Sky suggested the OHMMU 150 AH as a substitute. Supposedly a Gen 2 battery, whatever that means. The salesperson at Big Sky said they put it in another Camp-X, so I assume it fits. You seem very knowledgeable about batteries. Would you push for a battleborn or another battery as a substitute for the $1,500 battery I was getting from overlandex? I'm not sure if the built-in heater is as important as I once thought it was.
 

Chadx

♫ Off road, again. Just can't wait to get...
Hi Shawn,
The OHMMU 156Ah battery https://www.ohmmu.com/product-page/gen2group31 seems like a good battery, but I've not been able to find any tear down videos to see in the inside/construction, so hard to compare to the Battleborn or SOK that have been torn down and tested hard. OHMMU reports they use the Gen2 Tesla cells so that gave it a bit more energy density than the first gen. 156Ah is great for a group 31 footprint. It's dimensions are standard Group 31 so 12.75 x 6.875 x 9 (L x W xH) which is identical to the stock group 31 AGM and to the 100Ah Battleborn but it is 56 more Ah than the Battleborn. It also allows for 200amp max discharge where the BB and SOK allow 100amp max discharge. It does not list any internal heating elements as an option and it lists for $999 on their website with standard 48 month warranty and $1,098 with 120 month (10 year) warranty). Battleborn comes with a 120month (10 year) warranty. From a cost perspective, the SOK are the most economical, but won't fit. The Battleborn and OHMMU are the same dimensions but the OHMMU has 50% more capacity making it the most Ah per dollar. Battleborn is $900 / 100ah = $9 per Ah. OHMMU is $999 / 156Ah = $6.40 per Ah (plus the option of pulling 2x max amps and the enjoyment of having the extra 50% capacity). Seems like a reasonable choice. You'll have to work out with them the cost difference.

Now will be a good time to decide if you want to add a switched, external heating element. It can be added later, but would be easier now. Only you will know your winter use cases, but for consideration... Will you be in a situation where the battery is below freezing and you need to charge? I would think 150Ah would last you several days without charging, though that would vary greatly with how much power you draw (like if you add the Truma 12v winter kit to you water heater, etc.). In the cold, the fridge won't run much and no vent fans, but the heater fan runs more. Would you keep it at 70F or 50F? Lots of variables on power consumption.

If your trip will last long enough that you must charge during the trip (via solar, shore power, or truck), would the battery be above freezing during that time period because of how you are using the camper? If you have the heat on inside the camper, even at a very low setting, that should keep the battery warm enough to charge as long as you've plugged the battery box vents. If you are driving, leaving the furnace on isn't recommended. I suppose if it is a rare enough occasion, one could even put some chemical hand warmers around the base of the battery if need be. Hope some of that helps.
 

Shawn M

New member
Chadx, Thanks for the help! I think I'm going to roll the dice on the OHMMU. I'm more familiar with Battleborn, but Big Sky carries the OHMMU and the extra 50Ah would be nice. Actually, I think the OHMMU will push my Ah up enough that a battery heater will not be necessary. I winter camp for skiing and it's usually for 1 or 2 nights. I use a wave heater in my RPOD camp trailer now, but often turn it off at night or set it on the lowest setting. Once I shift over to the camp-x, I will find a heater setting that makes the best use of my battery.
 

Chadx

♫ Off road, again. Just can't wait to get...
Truma heater is very efficient and the insulation of the CAMP-X panel construction and insulated soft-sides make a big difference compared to aluminum framed pickup campers I've previously owned. And the vented furnace doesn't add condensation to (and remove oxygen from) the living space like the Wave heaters.
Once it's all in, let us know how you like it (battery and camper). Big Sky RV has been doing a great job with the installs, etc. (I'm lucky enough to live 3 miles from their shop).
There has been a lack of camper pictures on here lately (which one would expect over the winter). Ha.
Also, I sent you a PM with some other info.
 
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Crux

Member
Thinking about ways to squeeze more storage out of the Camp-X.... has anyone considered building a 4-6" tall platform with gas struts like the FWC Flatbed Hawk?
This would provide a ton of storage for clothes under the bed.

See this video at 3:28



Could be something really basic like this van build with gas struts (21:39)




You'd have to get a thinner mattress pad (maybe 2") and would loose a few inches for bedding, but sleeping bags would still fit.
 

Chadx

♫ Off road, again. Just can't wait to get...
@Crux
Here is a link to my post #47 earlier in this thread: https://expeditionportal.com/forum/...e-in-pickup-camper.214329/page-4#post-2786314

It's a great idea, but from the measurements in my specific CAMP-X, I had about 5.25" from the cabover floor up to the bottom of the hinge. I also removed the grab handle. Even with a 2" mattress, that would only leave 3.25" for any type of storage and the new mattress base which would likely be .25 to .5 thick leaving as little as 2.75" for storage height (though that amount of space would still be quite handy considering the nearly 60" x 80" footprint). Or, one could build the platform with a height all the way up to the hinge base, to get 4.75" - 5" of storage height and then either remove mattress and bedding completely when closing the pop-up, slide it all backwards about 16" to clear the lowered hinge, or, if sleeping a single person, only have a single width mattress to allow space for the hinge to lower.

The build-out would be neat if one was willing to accommodate the lack of mattress and bedding space. Some other options besides gas struts and hinged platform would be a fixed platform. One could either use short, long bins to store content and slide out the bins to access stored content or, even fancier, make slide-out drawers. Note that hinging the full base, like in the second video, takes a lot of headroom to raise the platform or a very shallow angle which may hinder access. One could hinge less that 100% of the platform to make it easier to open and still give good access to the entire space.

For us, room for our aftermarket mattress (ours is 5+inches) and leaving bedding in place is more important than storage and is one of the top 5 reasons we moved from a FWC to the CAMP-X. We didn't like unmaking and making the bed every time we lowered and raised the top. That would be not only when making or breaking camp (day after day one a longer road trip) but also when taking a mid-day drive, to launch the boat, etc.
For those that value storage over mattress/bedding space, it would be a great project and would be very fun to see the finished project (gas strut/hinged, slide out bins, or drawers)
 
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Crux

Member
Thanks for the insights chadx - definitely gives me more to ponder.
I haven't had a chance to take the mattress out and take a look, so your measurements help.
The hinge appears to be the Achilles heel with any kind of under bed storage system.
The only other option I can think of off the top of my head is a removeable section of the mattress and bed platform that allows the hinge to drop lower than the rest of the raised bed.
Having to fiddle with the removeable section would add to setup / tear down time, but could be worth it to store clothes under the bed in those mesh travel cubes.

 

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