2020 Overland Explorer Vehicles (OEV) CAMP-X pop-up slide-in pickup camper (renamed "Back Country" as of 2023)

[Ninelitetrip]

Hi Shawn,
The OHMMU 156Ah battery https://www.ohmmu.com/product-page/gen2group31 seems like a good battery, but I've not been able to find any tear down videos to see in the inside/construction, so hard to compare to the Battleborn or SOK that have been torn down and tested hard. OHMMU reports they use the Gen2 Tesla cells so that gave it a bit more energy density than the first gen. 156Ah is great for a group 31 footprint. It's dimensions are standard Group 31 so 12.75 x 6.875 x 9 (L x W xH) which is identical to the stock group 31 AGM and to the 100Ah Battleborn but it is 56 more Ah than the Battleborn. It also allows for 200amp max discharge where the BB and SOK allow 100amp max discharge. It does not list any internal heating elements as an option and it lists for $999 on their website with standard 48 month warranty and $1,098 with 120 month (10 year) warranty). Battleborn comes with a 120month (10 year) warranty. From a cost perspective, the SOK are the most economical, but won't fit. The Battleborn and OHMMU are the same dimensions but the OHMMU has 50% more capacity making it the most Ah per dollar. Battleborn is $900 / 100ah = $9 per Ah. OHMMU is $999 / 156Ah = $6.40 per Ah (plus the option of pulling 2x max amps and the enjoyment of having the extra 50% capacity). Seems like a reasonable choice. You'll have to work out with them the cost difference.

Now will be a good time to decide if you want to add a switched, external heating element. It can be added later, but would be easier now. Only you will know your winter use cases, but for consideration... Will you be in a situation where the battery is below freezing and you need to charge? I would think 150Ah would last you several days without charging, though that would vary greatly with how much power you draw (like if you add the Truma 12v winter kit to you water heater, etc.). In the cold, the fridge won't run much and no vent fans, but the heater fan runs more. Would you keep it at 70F or 50F? Lots of variables on power consumption.

If your trip will last long enough that you must charge during the trip (via solar, shore power, or truck), would the battery be above freezing during that time period because of how you are using the camper? If you have the heat on inside the camper, even at a very low setting, that should keep the battery warm enough to charge as long as you've plugged the battery box vents. If you are driving, leaving the furnace on isn't recommended. I suppose if it is a rare enough occasion, one could even put some chemical hand warmers around the base of the battery if need be. Hope some of that helps.

No internal heating, but also there is no internal BMS for the OHMMU?


Lithionics has some interesting stuff. Not just assembled but made in the USA. No listed price, have to contact them.

12V 130AH G31 Battery | Lithionics Battery

lithionicsbattery.com

I believe this will be available in the Base Camp model? GTX12V315A-E2107-CS200.

12V 315AH E2107 GTX Battery Consumer Model | Lithionics Battery

lithionicsbattery.com

and now this. VPR 4EVER Platinum Custom 360

VPR 4EVER Platinum 360 Lithium Battery

The custom 360 battery packs a punch with an incredible capacity of 360Ah. Charge faster, stay longer and go further with the ultimate RV/Marine power upgrade.

www.expion360.com

 

[Chadx]

No internal heating, but also there is no internal BMS for the OHMMU?

OHMMU does have a BMS. It mentions it in their description. https://www.ohmmu.com/product-page/gen2group31
I can't imagine a modern lithium without one. I don't think anyone would purchase.

I see that Lithionics offers both internal or external BMS. Those external BMS systems look very interesting. Want more amps? Plug in another raw lithium cell pack (appropriately wired to use an external BMS) to run off the same external BMS as your other packs. You only pay for one BMS rather than a BMS in each and every battery you buy, add, or replace in the system.

 

[Ninelitetrip]

OHMMU does have a BMS. It mentions it in their description. https://www.ohmmu.com/product-page/gen2group31
I can't imagine a modern lithium without one. I don't think anyone would purchase.

I see that Lithionics offers both internal or external BMS. Those external BMS systems look very interesting. Want more amps? Plug in another raw lithium cell pack to run off the same external BMS as other packs. You only pay for one BMS rather than a BMS in each and every battery you buy, add, or replace in the system.

I looked for mention for the BMS and went right by it. I'll just blame the poorly written description. Still it's a nice battery, interesting that the use Tesla batteries. Wrap a heater pad on it, I guess that would work if needed.

Lithionics tour from fours years ago. They are an OEM supplier, so that's good.

 

[Chadx]

I looked for mention for the BMS and went right by it. I'll just blame the poorly written description.

Agreed. OHMMU's lack of reasonable paragraph formatting and punctuation for their "Group 31" battery is a rather frustrating read. Ha. The descriptions on all their other battery types is much better.

Of note, since I replied to Shawn, OHMMU now lists this battery as Gen3 rather than Gen2 as it was earlier this week.

 

[Ninelitetrip]

Agreed. OHMMU's lack of reasonable paragraph formatting and punctuation for their "Group 31" battery is a rather frustrating read. Ha. The descriptions on all their other battery types is much better.

Of note, since I replied to Shawn, OHMMU now lists this battery as Gen3 rather than Gen2 as it was earlier this week.

Interesting, thanks for the update. Hopefully your suggestions on the battery access works out. Would be nice to plant 2 x OHMMU next to each other. The HBE should be in NJ soon, hopefully they have a detailed look at interior storage. I would like to see an electrical system a step up from the CAMP X in terms of capability.

 

[Chadx]

I spoke with Arnold recently and he said they received approval to no longer vent the battery box nor have a battery box at all as long as they label that only AGM or lithium batteries are allowed (only ventless). So the lack of battery box will allow for easier installation and removal of CAMP-X batteries. Not sure if the lack of battery box will be enough to allow two group 31 to go in there.

The CAMP-HBE will get a slide-out battery tray accessible from inside the camper. Not sure of the dimensions. He said they will have an HBE completed, with the new interior layout, in the next week or two and be posting images and video. He said several of the dealerships have them heading their way so there will be a few more on the ground by the end of March for dealerships and owners to photo/video, describe and share.

Regarding the electrical system, I really do like the REDARC. It's shortcoming is it can't take panels in series as many prefer to eliminate the use of Y-connectors and run a higher voltage and lower amp current through the PV wiring. I've had that conversation with REDARC directly and they said their max PV panel input voltage had to do with the feature that prioritized green power over truck/shore power. I shared that I'd gladly forgo the green power priority to get a higher max voltage as I manage the inbound power myself (have a pickup charging battery disconnect that I rarely turn on). They did say they planned to raise the max PV voltage a bit, to accommodate a single 24v panel (which have open circuit voltage of about 38.8v), but it sounded like the max voltage would still be too low to support two 12v panels wired in series (open circuit voltage of 23.9v x 2 = 47.8v will still be too much) ; 12v panels will still be limited to wiring in parallel.

 

[Ninelitetrip]

Its great that you can have that kind of outreach with him. There is a HBE on its way to OK4WD soon, or already? There was the one that went to San Diego but no real details on it that I have seen since it was sold. I like the pull out drawer idea for the batteries. Not full time living demands but the Manager 30 does seem limited...
Not wedded to Victron, but they do seem to have a fuller option package? With the HBE and 1 or 2 panels up top, and say a portable deployed panel for those shade issues, to just a boost in charging house or coach battery, DC to DC from the vehicle alternator, and then a small 500w - 1000w inverter for non shore powered 110v supply Victron does seem to meet that easily. AM Solar does have those DIY kits.

 

[Ninelitetrip]

chadx. What model was the induction cooktop you tested?

 

[Chadx]

chadx. What model was the induction cooktop you tested?

My sole induction experience is with a portable "Duxtop model BT-200DZ (black)", and while we didn't purchase it until the tail end of the camping season, we used it a couple trips and also a few times at home. That was enough that I'm now sold on induction cooktops and want our next camper to have either a two burner induction cooktop or a combo of a single induction and single propane. Would much prefer the double induction. We'd also have a small propane single burner as a backup or for picnic table cooking. On one trip, we had our Bluetti AC200 with and so used the induction cooktop on the picnic table. The same could be done with an extension cord from a camper inverter.

Long term plans include enough PV panels (350 - 500w) and battery capacity (200 - 400Ah) to have a nicely sized inverter and not only have inverter-driven outlets inside the camper, but outlets wired and accessible from exterior as well. This so I could plug in various items from outside be that an induction cooktop or chargers for electric motorcycle, E-mtb, charge boat batteries, etc. Though I have plans for the boat to have it's own PV panels and solar controller, too. And our enclosed trailer to have it's own solar setup...but those are stories for another forum...Ha.

 

[Ninelitetrip]

My sole induction experience is with a portable "Duxtop model BT-200DZ (black)", and while we didn't purchase it until the tail end of the camping season, we used it a couple trips and also a few times at home. That was enough that I'm now sold on induction cooktops and want our next camper to have either a two burner induction cooktop or a combo of a single induction and single propane. Would much prefer the double induction. We'd also have a small propane single burner as a backup or for picnic table cooking. On one trip, we had our Bluetti AC200 with and so used the induction cooktop on the picnic table. The same could be done with an extension cord from a camper inverter.

Long term plans include enough PV panels (350 - 500w) and battery capacity (200 - 400Ah) to have a nicely sized inverter and not only have inverter-driven outlets inside the camper, but outlets wired and accessible from exterior as well. This so I could plug in various items from outside be that an induction cooktop or chargers for electric motorcycle, E-mtb, charge boat batteries, etc. Though I have plans for the boat to have it's own PV panels and solar controller, too. And our enclosed trailer to have it's own solar setup...but those are stories for another forum...Ha.

Looks like a nice little unit. Put it away in storage when not needed, more counter space if you delete the gas cooktop. And with external 110v, cook outside.

Page not found - The Secura

www.thesecura.com

I would love top see you shoehorn 400ah into a CAMP X.

A trailer certainly adds some pluses and minuses. Storage for extra water and more solar would help on longer excursions.

 

[Chadx]

...I would love top see you shoehorn 400ah into a CAMP X.
A trailer certainly adds some pluses and minuses. Storage for extra water and more solar would help on longer excursions.

Ha. The long term plan for 200 - 400Ah would be in a CAMP-HBE. In our CAMP-X, we can only do a 100 - 150Ah (whatever Ah one can source in the needed footprint of a Group 31). An Ah expansion option would entail making the under fridge cabinet into a battery and inverter cabinet. That would easily fit two of the SOK 206Ah batteries. It's an option but with storage trade-offs we are not willing to make with our CAMP-X. One more reason we are interested in the new CAMP-HBE layout one part of which is the battery box dimensions. But that is a long term plan/possibility.

In our case, our current enclosed trailer is sized for motorcycle, atv, snowmobile transport; not remote, forest service road and mountain camping. Same when we tow the fishing boat. The enclosed trailer or boat/trailer mean we are limited to campground camping or shorter distance, not-too-rough dispersed camping. We've thought about a small 5x8 with lifted independent suspension for our more remote trips, but when we go that remote, we prefer to not have a trailer in tow. On those trips, if it can't sit on a receiver-mounted rack (bike rack, motorcycle rack, etc.) it's not coming with. Ha.

 

[Crux]

Well that is disappointing. Filled up the water tank for the first time since purchasing from the dealer and noticed a leak between the blue line coming out of the water tank and the drain valve to the outside. I was able to take out the section of blue pipe between the water pump and the winterizing valve, but there is almost no room to the maneuver the lower pipe out. I thought perhaps I could disconnect the tank from the blue line and swivel the pipe up to get to the leaking section, but the apparently the battery box was built after tank was put in, because flanges of the plastic screw on water connection are too wide to actually screw it off.
At any rate looks like I will need to pex line, tools, crimps, etc.
The crimps that on are all the water lines are smooth and look like they could be a challenge to pull off.

Anyone have any advice that help with my endeavors?

Here is a picture of the leak:

 

[Chadx]

Hard to get my bearings on that particular picture, but think I have it. Water tank to the right, battery box below, elbow that goes outside at the left then upward toward outer sidewall.

Regarding the plastic screw on flanges not having clearance to turn due to battery box, that's a bummer. My first thought was that it looks like one could get a wrench on the brass adapter immediately to it's right in the picture, but as you unscrew it out of the tank, it would try to screw into the screw flange and if it can't rotate, you are in the same boat. So it might end up being a situation where the flanges have to get cut or ground off.

If you are tackling yourself, I would guess it's best to unscrew that portion somehow, then the portion on top by the valve and then disconnect that entire section from the left most blue pipe. That way you can pull out that entire section and go through it on the bench, making whatever repairs and connections necessary where it's easy to inspect and work. Then, when you reinstall that entire section, you have only one pex connector, located at a joint that is a bit easier to access while down in the hole, and then the other two screw on connectors.

Keep us posted whatever you decide to do as it will be a good learning experience for others.

 

[Crux]

It was definitely winterized - lots of pink fluid was coming out when I was testing the pump. I took apart the pieces of pipe that I could unscrew and learned a lot more about pex and plumbing than I ever wanted to know. Apparently there are 3 different styles of crimps (rings, caps, and clamps) - each with there own separate $60 tool. The Camp-X uses 1/2” ring style. There is really no way to service those pipes way down in the compartment, especially with the unmovable battery box.
After staring at it for an hour, I thought maybe the leak was coming from the winterizing valve instead of the crimps. I wrapped some Teflon PTFE thread tape around the three valve joint threads and hand tightened the plastic flange screw joints as much as possible.

Success!! No leaks!!

Ran the pump and water heater for a while and looks to be fixed.

 

[john61ct]

Lithionics is great stuff.

Best dealer, maybe master distributor, helped them design the BMS+ systems

Bruce at OceanPlanet

IMO better than dealing direct.

He may have a "downstream" dealer near your area, or at least where sailors are.