You've got a really nicely built out truck, so I'd spend a little more time thinking about if you can adapt your camping style to make the current truck work and avoid wasting a bunch of money. The coil suspension can be pretty nice offroad compared to leafs if you keep your weight modest, especially with all the work you've done to it.
Could you get away with a popup topper like a Go Fast Camper or the many others on the market now? Or maybe the FWC shell model instead of the hawk or a Total Composites shell if you want something hardsided?
Looking at your packing list, I think there's a lot of weight you could save. You mention 35's in your first post but have 37's in your spreadsheet. 35's will fit in the normal spare location, so why not ditch the rigd carrier? It also looks like you're counting the weight of the spare but didn't subtract out the OEM spare tire. You can also subtract out the tailgate weight as mentioned before. Weight behind the axle matters the most, so these could make a big difference. Don't try to carry a moto.
Do you really need the rotopax and extra fuel? Even loaded up with our camper, our 2016 Ram 2500 usually had 400 miles of range. Ditch the cargo box and swap the steps for light folding plastic ones. Are you really going to be carrying the driver, 3 passengers, and 3 dogs all at the same time? Or bikes and SUP's on the same trip? How about removing part of the rear seats where the dogs sit? The propane weight may already be factored into the FWC weight. Think real hard about that 270 awning vs a basic tarp.
I think one could also argue that the weight increase of the aftermarket wheels and tires doesn't exactly count against payload (except for the spare). Heavier wheels and tires will certainly affect braking, acceleration, etc but that is unsprung weight and it's not changing the load on the coils.
If you're within the tire ratings, each axle rating, and are happy with the loaded driving dynamics from the coils I'd say send it!
