2020 Ram 5500 DIY Composite Panel Camper Build Thread

[RAM5500 CAMPERTHING]

If you were a real internet overlanding hero, you'd be using a more Instagramworthy different brand chest fridge.

I'm just a dumb old lazy redneck that wants things that work regardless of the "Instafame" cred

Since whenever do you listen to others????? Besides listening to them finish so you can then barrage them with snarky comments?

Ha... Its admittedly rare, but it does happen!

Rad, but mass could be a problem depending on the terrain, ie snotty UT mud. But you don't go to UT often, you go to Baja instead, so NVM.

-Mr. Razzmatazz

#fakenews, no more Meheeko for me, UT/AZ are where the goodness is at now! Yes, I have a lot of mass, as does my truck!

PS--I didn't realize you were such a hardcore Toyota guy. Explains it all now LOL.

Yessir, I used to be a Tech Editor for Toyota Trails magazine back when they had those monthly paper book things that youre probably too young to remember [insert middle finger laughing emoji]

I am also the guy that build the FZJ80 with some friends in my driveway to race the Baja1000 and passed the notoriously hard SCORE Tech with flying colors on the first attempt. So yeah... Folks I take advice from exist, but.... hahahaha [more middle finger emojis]

 

[mk216v]

NoMoMeheeko; cause of your friends near death experiences, or did MX run out of tacos?

I didn't realize you were such a Toyota fanboy (I was probably still reading Hot VW's magazine when you were scribbling for TTmag). So it seems like perfect timing to sell your RAM5500TC, and get the new TruckHouseTacoBCTMegaRaptur.

 

[RAM5500 CAMPERTHING]

A few small updates. Its been slow going. 8020 has a huge backlog so the shipping times for the extrusions has caused a lot of delays here.

I got the AC and DC breaker panels in, and mostly wired (waiting on a couple more labels to arrive to make it complete and tidy.

I originally had these going inside above the dinette but decided to move them to the door for a couple reasons.

The thought process is, i want to be able to check and shut everything off without having to climb in camper. But i also want to be able to operate anything from the inside as well, this is my idea for the best of both worlds.

Also, its setup, so if i am on way to camp and in need of a shower, i can just open the door, turn on the inverter, flip the hot water heater on, and it will heat the water while im finishing the drive to camp, which will also keep the batteries topped off when i get there.

Also, the engine block heater will be wired to that panel (waiting on the label) so i can turn it on from the comfort of inside the camper.

There are also going to be some exterior lighting switches, 12v charging plugs, 120v receptacle, and a voltage gauge mounted to this panel, so i can charge phone and such right at the door. I found this quite useful on my FWC.

Here is the rough panel install. Turns out, 3/8" nylon sheet fits perfect and snug inside the 15 series 8020 extrusions.

Also, i attached some pics of how i am mounting the aluminum angle for the cabinets. Using 2x3" angle 6" long and the Korapop Adhesive supplied by TC.

For the other side which the cabinets will be holding a lot more weight, i will be using much longer pieces of aluminum angle to disperse the load.

 

[Victorian]

Don't forget the primer for the aluminum when using the Koemmerling adhesive. Because the primer can not be shipped as it's considered dangerous goods we recommend using the Sika 205 primer. Usually available in marine stores.

Cheers!

 

[RAM5500 CAMPERTHING]

Don't forget the primer for the aluminum when using the Koemmerling adhesive. Because the primer can not be shipped as it's considered dangerous goods we recommend using the Sika 205 primer. Usually available in marine stores.

Well that sucks! I wasnt aware, or informed a primer was needed for the Korapop to Alunimum. Its a little too late now for these pieces.

I guess i'll see how it goes and use primer from now on.

LUCKILY, none of these mounts so far are load bearing! Whew

 

[Victorian]

Well that sucks! I wasnt aware, or informed a primer was needed for the Korapop to Alunimum. Its a little too late now for these pieces.

I guess i'll see how it goes and use primer from now on.

LUCKILY, none of these mounts so far are load bearing! Whew

Looks like you have support through out the system. You should be fine!
Generally, when ever you glue metals, you need to use a primer, no matter of the adhesive brand.

 

[mk216v]

Panel looks nice.
I hope the interior doesn't look like one of those VanDoIt van builds. Stuff going on everywhichwayz, like a jungle gym!

 

[RAM5500 CAMPERTHING]

Panel looks nice.
I hope the interior doesn't look like one of those VanDoIt van builds. Stuff going on everywhichwayz, like a jungle gym!

A compliment from you? Wohhhhh... Thanks! #honored

Hahahaha!

Its funny you mention them specifically...

I have a ton of bookmarks from my digging around (aka google research) and they were one of the first i came across, and have stolen a few ideas from them. I have used 8020 before but nothing on this scale.

Although i dont agree with much (if anything, hahaha) with what ya say, i agree whole heartedly with the jungle gym comment [insert vomit emoji here]

I am using the 8020 stuff more for the framing and mounting of everything.

I have ZERO wood working skills, or wood working tools, so once its all mostly built out, appliances are mounted, and i am happy with it, i am going to have a friend make skins to cover it all and make it look finished.

The bare 80 looks tacky, and the grooves in the extrusions catch every single piece of dirt and debris in existence.

Its all one big fun learning process

 

[HAF]

80- 20 offers plastic strips of different colors that snap into those grooves. Your build is looking great.

 

[mk216v]

A compliment from you? Wohhhhh... Thanks! #honored

Hahahaha!

Its funny you mention them specifically...

I have a ton of bookmarks from my digging around (aka google research) and they were one of the first i came across, and have stolen a few ideas from them. I have used 8020 before but nothing on this scale.

Although i dont agree with much (if anything, hahaha) with what ya say, i agree whole heartedly with the jungle gym comment [insert vomit emoji here]

I am using the 8020 stuff more for the framing and mounting of everything.

I have ZERO wood working skills, or wood working tools, so once its all mostly built out, appliances are mounted, and i am happy with it, i am going to have a friend make skins to cover it all and make it look finished.

The bare 80 looks tacky, and the grooves in the extrusions catch every single piece of dirt and debris in existence.

Its all one big fun learning process

Count your blessings.
At least we can agree on the middle finger emoji, eh? ?

I think your build is looking great, and I hear you on no wood. Once the skins are on, it'll look clean, modern, professional--just like the exterior.
Keep on truckin' buddy ol' pal.

PS--you'd been talking above about no need for a front locker, or full rear locker. Curious--when in Low Range, is the factory traction control still active? Per Peter (Montypower; https://expeditionportal.com/forum/...0-on-37s-expedition-truck-camper-build.216282) on the '17+ F-Super Duty, Ford shuts off the traction control, so they've found their front locker very helpful.

 

[HMT]

On the subject of Tradesman vs. SLT ... can the LED lights be added to the Tradesman? I'm guessing not compatible or it was cost prohibitive? I might be making this same choice in the near future. thanks.

 

[RAM5500 CAMPERTHING]

PS--you'd been talking above about no need for a front locker, or full rear locker. Curious--when in Low Range, is the factory traction control still active?

Embarrassingly, i am not actually sure. During my UT/AZ back country trip, i went through what ill say is some sketchy places i shouldnt have been and would probably be the limit of where i would take such a big setup. I didnt even use low range at all, but when i put it in high, i manually shut off the traction control, which basically makes the rear end a spool. How? I dunno that either!

 

[RAM5500 CAMPERTHING]

On the subject of Tradesman vs. SLT ... can the LED lights be added to the Tradesman? I'm guessing not compatible or it was cost prohibitive? I might be making this same choice in the near future. thanks.

Yes and No...

The LED come in 3 different levels. The lowest level (which is what my SLT came with and what i swapped in) can be installed fairly easily from what i've read, but need a ECU flash to activate them.

The high trim LEDs that move as youre turning supposedly cannot be adding without a ton of extra work. I dont know anyone yet thats done it.

I sold my stock LEDs to a guy with a trademan, and he had them up and running easily he said.

The cummins forum has a crazy amount of info on the ins and out of this

 

[RAM5500 CAMPERTHING]

Still plugging away at the interior and cabinet tomfoolery and its very slow going, as this is definitely not my strong suit... HAHAHAHA

Soooo....

Half the reason i am building this thing is for my Northern Adventures i do every year (except this one, thanks Rona) chasing the pretty lights and giant bears

Here is a quick mash up video i did of all my favorite aurora timelapses i shot on my trip up north last year:

Hope to get back up there in September

 

[RAM5500 CAMPERTHING]

A few small updates.

The power distribution panel is done, and all functional (everything is straight and symetrical on it, it looks warped and crooked in photo due to 14mm lens, ha).

This is right inside the door and lets me control everything from inside the camper, or with just opening the door and not having to go in, this was a must for this build.

Also, this is my 4th mock up of the cabinets, and i am still not too keen on it. This mock up is just for testing various latches and such. The latches are great, but i am not digging the wood.

Every one of my friends that has been over and seen these keeps yapping about "You need hidden hinges bro, hidden hinges are whats up."

Meh... These exposed hinges are southco adjustable friction, and have a huge range of adjustment to hold the doors up without any additional hardware, and work great.

I am digging these hinges and latches, i just need to find a better idea for the door face.

Again, these are just ghetto mock ups with plywood i had laying around, yes, i know its warped

And yes, the corners were the extrusions meet have a nice plastic cap that covers them, once i am done taking them apart everyday!