Florida Native
Active member
It’ll probably be a long while before I can make it back down there, but will do!
-Mike
2024 Casita 17' Spirit Deluxe
- Thread starter Tex68w
- Start date
It’ll probably be a long while before I can make it back down there, but will do!
-Mike
Tex68w
Beach Bum
Looking to install a 30A Smart Plug on the Casita next month. This will allow us to ditch the hardwired connection which I've longed for since day one. In place of the current small door that the hard wired electrical cord lives in we will be able to double the size of the opening with a larger door which will allow greater access to the space there directly under the dinette/bed. This will allow me to store the electrical cord, surge protecter, adapters and a few other items necessary for accessories on that side of the trailer further limiting my reliance on storing them in the accessory tub I am forced to carry in the bed of the truck. Lack of exterior accessible storage is by far one of my biggest complaints about this trailer and while this is a very, very small win I will take it.
Tex68w
Beach Bum
I went over to the camper in storage this afternoon to check on a few things. Outside temp was 32F, inside temp of the trailer with it off was 44F. I was going to be there for 30mins or more so I figured I'd plug the trailer in and do a test on the furnace and warm my bits up in the process. I wanted to see how long it took it to bring the interior temp up to 74F from 44F, an increase of 30 degrees. From the moment the furnace kicked on to the moment it kicked off at 74F was a total of 24 minutes. Less than a minute per degree, I am pretty happy with that performance all things considered. The furnace they use is the Suburban 16,000 BTU which is more than enough for that space.
Pacific Northwest yetti
Expedition Medic
Why the "smart plug" versus the standard 30amp twist lock plug?
When they first came out, the smart plugs were hard to source/ had to be ordered. If you lost the cord, or it had a failure. Not sure if this is still the case or not.
Where any RV place, and most big box stores have the 30amp twist locks and cords.
When they first came out, the smart plugs were hard to source/ had to be ordered. If you lost the cord, or it had a failure. Not sure if this is still the case or not.
Where any RV place, and most big box stores have the 30amp twist locks and cords.
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eatSleepWoof
Do it for the 'gram
+1 to sticking with things that are standardized. The less proprietary something is, the easier your life will be.
Last year my neighbour pulled up his 2010 Arctic Fox to clean/stock it before a trip, and found that the bathroom door had swung shut (in transit) AND locked itself somehow. I helped him unlock the door, and in the process suggested he replace the lock with a latch that can be opened from both sides (the bathroom doesn't need locking "security").
He looked into that and found out that the normal, residential-looking door lock was anything but. Instead of being able to replace it with any $15 option from Home Depot, that specific lock, and thus the cut out for it, was RV-proprietary, and sure enough, it cost $100 at the local dealer. Bastards did this for no reason other than to lock customers into their own products. I hate this kind of stuff with a burning passion.
Last year my neighbour pulled up his 2010 Arctic Fox to clean/stock it before a trip, and found that the bathroom door had swung shut (in transit) AND locked itself somehow. I helped him unlock the door, and in the process suggested he replace the lock with a latch that can be opened from both sides (the bathroom doesn't need locking "security").
He looked into that and found out that the normal, residential-looking door lock was anything but. Instead of being able to replace it with any $15 option from Home Depot, that specific lock, and thus the cut out for it, was RV-proprietary, and sure enough, it cost $100 at the local dealer. Bastards did this for no reason other than to lock customers into their own products. I hate this kind of stuff with a burning passion.
Photomike
White Turtle Adventures & Photography
I just had to replace the drain line for my van's sink—only 3 feet long. One local RV dealer wanted $50, while others insisted on redoing the entire setup just to sell me a specific hose. Luckily, I found a washing machine drain hose, trimmed it to size, and made it work perfectly. Total cost? Just $14.
4runnerteq
Explorer
Well damn. Went and looked at a 17 spirit deluxe today that an older couple has and can’t use anymore. It’s like freaking brand new. All options. High lift axle, ac, furnace, fantastic fan, 3000 watt Honda gen, garage kept. $17k. Would love to have it, but would have to pull from IRA. Doesn’t seem like a good idea. The SoCal might bring close to covering and putting back in, but not sure. At 59 probably need to hang on to all I can.
Tex68w
Beach Bum
That's a great price but I have to assume it's at least 10 years old at that price?! And no one can tell you what to do with your money because everyone's situation is different but all I know is that you can't take it with you and you're alive and well and willing to travel now. Don't let yourself become like the couple who is selling it because they can no longer fulfill their dreams.
4runnerteq
Explorer
Well, I did forget to ask the year. It is a 2008, so even as good a shape as it's in I'd say at this point it is way overpriced.
Tex68w
Beach Bum
Florida Native
Active member
I’m planning on eventually replacing my cord with a Smartplug. They’re not cheap, but I like it over the twist lock for the improved contact surface area and the security of the connection while still being easy to plug and unplug. My main reason is to get rid of the rubber mouse hole plug to keep bugs out when the cord is hanging out… it’s pretty annoying to put in and take out all the time. I still fit a 30amp extension cord in the bottom of the compartment under the main cord.
Last fall I added the front rack with an oversized truck box to the tongue which now holds all of the chocks, blocks and other necessary hookup equipment (except the sewer hose which lives in the bumper).
-Mike
Last fall I added the front rack with an oversized truck box to the tongue which now holds all of the chocks, blocks and other necessary hookup equipment (except the sewer hose which lives in the bumper).
-Mike
Tex68w
Beach Bum
Agreed, the full-time attached cord sucks and should've been ditched by them decades ago. I made a big stink about it (along with a few other things) when we took delivery of ours last year and low and behold this year all of those are now standard or options, go figure lol. I am replacing the current door that houses the attached cord with a larger door and will be moving the electrical connection to the left/in front of the door. This larger door will allow for larger items to be placed inside thereby creating more interior accessible space which is desperately needed on these trailers.
I nearly went with the tongue mounted Stromberg Carlson box but for the $800 you have to spend for the box and rack it's a poor value for the tiny space it adds on top of it being an aesthetic detractor and it gets in the way of the propane bottle cover as well. Once the electrical cord upgrade and new larger door are installed I will be able to ditch a few of the items I am currently forced to carry in the container in the bed of my truck which will be a nice upgrade in itself.
Florida Native
Active member
I added the Stromberg rack and a generic 30” truck box. Most folks that don’t use the big money Stromberg rack use a 24” box because it fits completely inside the tray. Since my box overhangs the front corners of the tray, I added 1.5” square tube aluminum between it and the tray to lift it up.
My 30 inch box wasn’t much money and holds the chocks, Andersen leveler, orange blocks, EPMS, water hoses/filter, sewer hose supports, stabilizer crank, a handful of 1 pound propane tanks and a few tools.
It is ugly, but I chopped 6” off the rack vertical supports (probably an inch or two too much) to get it lower (and maybe looking slightly better?). I use a soft propane tank cover which I ended up liking better than the hard case because it’s easier to check the switchover indicator.
I do really like carrying absolutely nothing necessary for trailer setup in the truck. It all stays on the trailer all the time all year.
-Mike
My 30 inch box wasn’t much money and holds the chocks, Andersen leveler, orange blocks, EPMS, water hoses/filter, sewer hose supports, stabilizer crank, a handful of 1 pound propane tanks and a few tools.
It is ugly, but I chopped 6” off the rack vertical supports (probably an inch or two too much) to get it lower (and maybe looking slightly better?). I use a soft propane tank cover which I ended up liking better than the hard case because it’s easier to check the switchover indicator.
I do really like carrying absolutely nothing necessary for trailer setup in the truck. It all stays on the trailer all the time all year.
-Mike