225/75/16 too narrow for a Disco 1?

[Daryl]

all of those are at or under 30" tall. Maybe I spent too much time on Jeep forum before here, but that is scoffed at for anything other then 'mall crawling' or what have you.

It sounds like you need to figure out what your truck does in stock trim with proper tires. If shocks are your issue, you aren't exactly "doing things twice" by replacing them unless you want to lift more than 2" later.

Also, start with a properly sorted vehicle before you modify it. It doesn't sound like you're anywhere close. Yeah, I know that tie rod ends and suspension bushings aren't exciting and don't make it look any different when you're done, but it's the proper way to start.

Also, being worried about repair costs/fuel economy and lifting/even owning a 2.5 ton vehicle are not really compatible.

Sorry if this sounds harsh, but the fact that you are worried about what you describe as a "mall crawler" (which isn't even what that term means) indicates you are more concerned with looks than function, yet you keep describing that you are concerned with function. Choose one. If it's looks, just admit that you yourself: that's OK as it's your truck and you can do what you like with it. 33's and a 2" lift while you drive exclusively around a city pretty accurately describes "mall crawling" to a much greater extent than driving an offroad capable and well sorted stock truck.

 

[LtFuzz]

Jeremy, I don't think you'll see a very appreciable MPG difference with a 2" lift and anything in the 225/75-245/75 range. It certainly won't pull you down to 8 mpgs.

 

[David Harris]

Jeremy, do you want to lift your truck? Or are you considering it just so you can fit an alternative tire size? If I remember correctly you were concerned with the cost of repairs for your truck. If cost is still a concern and you'd rather not lift your truck then go with the 225/75-16 or, my preference, the 245/70-16. Not to be confused with the 245/75-16. As I mentioned earlier, the 245/70 is about 0.5" taller than stock and they are wider. No rubbing issues, so you wont have to hack your fenders.

245/75R16 is no problem either with the stock suspension. I've run them on two of my Disco's for the past three years with no problems other than steering stop adjustment to counter the width.

David

 

[dcwhybrew]

Ditto what Daryl said. Continue working on your mechanical issues first. That is your priority. Go with the 245/70-16s. I ran them on my 1996 D1 and went a lot of places, as I already mentioned. 245/75s are just too big for the D1 without a 1-2" lift and some rear fender trimming. Dont hack your vehicle until you're absolutely certain that is what you want to do, then think about it two more times. 245/75s may very well fit without suspension mods, but once you start flexing your suspension you'll experience significant rubbing. Its a popular set up for D1s, I have seen the set up numerous times, and there's write-ups ad nauseum on the set up on Dweb etc.

Go with the 245/70s and keep fixing your truck. You'll be fine with those, and will go just about anywhere. Listen to the pros like Scott Brady!

Now the joy of figuring out what tire to get....I'll start (well, the Duratrac comments actually started it), go with the BFG ATs for all around use. Though, if you're going through a lot of sticky mud, they probably wont be so great. Lots of snow, dirt, sand, light mud...you're golden with them. And they last a long time.

 

[David Harris]

245/75R16's don't rub anywhere on mine at full flex with a stock suspension and sway bars disconnected, but they are close at the back of the rear fender opening, so I did a camel cut to give a little more room. If you want a little more room just add some of the rubberized front shock rings from a D2 and extra spring isolators at the rear. As said before, adjust the steering stops so they don't rub on the front radius arms at full lock. The nice thing about this set-up is you're not lifting the vehicle much so you keep a lower center of gravity and stock road manners. I'm installing a set of rear air bags to give more load capacity. Air up when loaded and down when not. I'll post this up soon when I get them in there.


The BFG A/T's are good tires but are old technology now. Check out the Goodyear Wrangler Silent Armor. I run a set of these and they outperform the BFG's I've had in all conditions.

Agree with everyone that you should completely sort all the mechanicals before you do anything else.

David

 

[JeremyT101]

Wow, as per usual you guys have given me lots to think about! To put the line straight for myself though. My first concern is function over form. Or as I have read here numerous times, having everything you need, and nothing that you don't. Just trying to find the right balance. It looks like the stock suspension will stay for now, probably coupled with a 245/70. Obviously, my first goal with the truck is get the mechanical up to snuff. I just got a re-built diff installed in the rear as my old one had its day. It was making a horrible grinding/metal on metal popping sound on deceleration. We drained the fluids in the T-case/diffs, pulled the wheels and half shafts and the diff, had it open on the table. The crown bearings were toast. Rover guy said its easier/cheaper to just to clean up and throw on a good, but still slightly worn diff to match the wear on the rest of the truck. Smoothed out my vibrations that shook the wheel at 60km/h, no more brake squeal. Going back to give him the cash on Saturday and to chase down a new clunk in the driveline. It only happens after I have come to a complete stop, between the shifts for 2nd and 3rd gear. Never had it before. Will have to see what he says. Leaves me scratching my head. No worries when I'm going or even just slowed down, mainly just when at a complete stop at a light or something.

Anyways, aside from yes, bushings probably being quite worn, the rest of the mechanic appears to be in good order. Both diffs now and the t-case are good, seen the half shafts pulled on all 4 corners, CV's serviced, brake system almost completely rebuild, CDL moving great. Aside from the new clunk, I think the mechanicals are definitely getting close to being in order.

 

[dino2000]

215 85-16

So far, great off road and very quiet! They measured about .75" taller than the 245/75. My truck has OME HD springs and the lift is a little more than 2" over stock.

 

[deadbeat son]

So far, great off road and very quiet! They measured about .75" taller than the 245/75. My truck has OME HD springs and the lift is a little more than 2" over stock.

Interesting, Goodyear specs state they are about 1/10 of an inch shorter than the equivalent 245/75.

 

[dino2000]

The gentleman at the Goodyear store was nice enough to bring in 4 of each size so I could compare them. The 245s were shorter...........unless I have a faulty tape measure.
Is it always true if you read it on the interwebs?

 

[LtFuzz]

Is it always true if you read it on the interwebs?

The internet told me Land Rovers are very good off road!

 

[dino2000]

yes, that I read and it has proven to be true.

Not quite as good as my 950 A was and my 950 SE is, but you can't get the whole fam on the seat. Is that a 6.2L from a Chevy (D1 in sig line)?

 

[LtFuzz]

Is that a 6.2L from a Chevy (D1 in sig line)?

Nope, it's a J-code from a '91-'93 HMMWV.

 

[deadbeat son]

The gentleman at the Goodyear store was nice enough to bring in 4 of each size so I could compare them. The 245s were shorter...........unless I have a faulty tape measure.
Is it always true if you read it on the interwebs?

Hey, I believe you. I just find it interesting that GY doesn't rate them as such. I wonder if mounting and inflating the tires makes a difference?

 

[rover4x4]

215/85 are really really really narrow.. I would be interested in how they handle..

 

[ntan]

215/85s handle just fine on and offroad.