$299 scratch and dent fridges on ebay
- Thread starter jeffryscott
- Start date
Wow good for you. If the compressor isn't dead somehow, I guess there's some chance you'll get a working fridge...which is better than none chance!
The "display" you mention is actually a thermostat/controller...which sends volt on/off to the compressor depending on the programmed temperature and the measured temperature. I'm pretty sure, when i was inspecting my unit, that I saw some pry tabs either below or on the sides of the controller...get a flashlight and look around. Also, to make things easier...look for any screws (not rivets) that can be unscrewed and start taking things apart...just take pictures along the way to help in putting it back together. If you get the controller off, and take a picture of the wires in the back, I might be able to check mine, too.
Also, I don't recall...did you mention whether or not your fridge works with 120VAC???
mtnbike28
Expedition Leader
from Edgestar
Instructions from Edgestar, including pictures, PM me an e-mail and I will forward you the e-mail if you want the pictures!
FP430, FP630, FP860 - Wire Disconnect Fix for FP Series Portable Chest Refrigerator Freezer
Complaint - LED lights up and the temp is adjustable, but the compressor never kicks on, and the unit never gets cold.
Troubleshooting - Unplug the unit. Remove the access panel that covers the compressor by removing the two screws the hold it on.
Then check to see if these or any wires are disconnected. If so, reconnect them to their color coded prongs
If all the colored coded wires are firmly attached, inspect the green plugs going to the control box to make sure they are firmly plugged in. You may need to follow the steps below to reattach the green connectors to the temperature control box.
The external label must be removed to access the mounting screws of the temperature controller.
1) Remove the label entirely, by peeling gently from one corner. Apply even pressure across the label when removing the label, otherwise you may damage the label.
Once you have gained access to the mounting screws, use a #2 Phillips screwdriver to remove both mounting screws on either side of the LED display.
Carefully slide the controller out and away from the unit. Ensure the green connectors are firmly attached, You may want to remove and reattach to make sure that they click back into place. Each plug is also keyed to fit only one way; do not attempt to force the connector to fit as this will damage the connector, and possibly the controller unit as well.
If these steps do not help you resolve your issue, or if you have further questions, please contact us.
Sincerely,
Michael Taylor
EdgeStar Support
Living Direct, Inc.
service@edgestar.com
866-319-5473
--
Are we doing a great job? Is there something we can do to improve our service? Let us know by following the link below and taking our short survey:
http://www.edgestar.com/survey.asp?Source=Email
--
Jay Capers
www.jaycapers.com
--
Are we doing a great job? Is there something we can do to improve our service? Let us know by following the link below and taking our short survey:
http://www.edgestar.com/survey.asp?Source=Email
Instructions from Edgestar, including pictures, PM me an e-mail and I will forward you the e-mail if you want the pictures!
FP430, FP630, FP860 - Wire Disconnect Fix for FP Series Portable Chest Refrigerator Freezer
Complaint - LED lights up and the temp is adjustable, but the compressor never kicks on, and the unit never gets cold.
Troubleshooting - Unplug the unit. Remove the access panel that covers the compressor by removing the two screws the hold it on.
Then check to see if these or any wires are disconnected. If so, reconnect them to their color coded prongs
If all the colored coded wires are firmly attached, inspect the green plugs going to the control box to make sure they are firmly plugged in. You may need to follow the steps below to reattach the green connectors to the temperature control box.
The external label must be removed to access the mounting screws of the temperature controller.
1) Remove the label entirely, by peeling gently from one corner. Apply even pressure across the label when removing the label, otherwise you may damage the label.
Once you have gained access to the mounting screws, use a #2 Phillips screwdriver to remove both mounting screws on either side of the LED display.
Carefully slide the controller out and away from the unit. Ensure the green connectors are firmly attached, You may want to remove and reattach to make sure that they click back into place. Each plug is also keyed to fit only one way; do not attempt to force the connector to fit as this will damage the connector, and possibly the controller unit as well.
If these steps do not help you resolve your issue, or if you have further questions, please contact us.
Sincerely,
Michael Taylor
EdgeStar Support
Living Direct, Inc.
service@edgestar.com
866-319-5473
--
Are we doing a great job? Is there something we can do to improve our service? Let us know by following the link below and taking our short survey:
http://www.edgestar.com/survey.asp?Source=Email
--
Jay Capers
www.jaycapers.com
--
Are we doing a great job? Is there something we can do to improve our service? Let us know by following the link below and taking our short survey:
http://www.edgestar.com/survey.asp?Source=Email
R_Lefebvre
Expedition Leader
Interesting, I guess they decided to cut their loses on that unit. I'd imagine you'll be able to get it going, since the compressor does work. Just have to figure out what's wrong with the DC circuit.
nothing works on mine.
spent 5 min before work today and the 2 plugs that go into the back of the display were disconnected. Didn't have enough time to play with it.
Maybe I will have a free 12V cooler or a free heavy cooler. :Wow1:
Well if that's the case then most likely you're in extreme good luck. That controller sends the voltage to the compressor to turn it on based on feedback from the temp sensor. Most likely the 12V output in the back of the controler is disconnected...this wire should connect to the top blade (color-coded blue) of the column of blade connectors located just below the controller.
See post #109 by mtnbike28 with the detailed instructions for remove the controller and checking the wires in the back. Good luck to you! And if you have the time, it would be REALLY nice if you could post-up some pics of the operation.
Terrainist
Explorer
That would be sweet. More than likely it is something simple like that.
finally got to play with this a little and had great results. I took the control panel off and found that the wires were not plugged into the back of the control panel. Plugged them in and it fixed everything.
I will let it sit for a while and see if it cools down but all looks good.
I will let it sit for a while and see if it cools down but all looks good.
18seeds,
Good news you got at least something out of a free fridge
When it works, it does indeed work VERY well (no problems thus far with mine, knock-on-wood).
But, it's a bummer that the 12V isn't working. Just out of curiosity, on the back of the controller, how did you know which wire plugs into which connection? Was it obvious? I could imagine that this could be responsible for the 12V not working.
Also, if the wires ARE in fact plugged in correctly, there is the issue of how good is your 12V??? If the battery is partially bad; or if your vehicle happens to have wimpy stock wiring to the 12V plug then there could be a large, momentary voltage drop when the compressor kicks in, causing it to not work (if it somehow senses <11.5V, it will not run, in order to preserve your battery).
To truly conclude that 12V does not work, you should try to connect it as directly as possible to the battery (i.e. you could clamp jumper cables from the battery to the appropriate parts of the 12V socket plug, etc.).
Good news you got at least something out of a free fridge
When it works, it does indeed work VERY well (no problems thus far with mine, knock-on-wood).
But, it's a bummer that the 12V isn't working. Just out of curiosity, on the back of the controller, how did you know which wire plugs into which connection? Was it obvious? I could imagine that this could be responsible for the 12V not working.
Also, if the wires ARE in fact plugged in correctly, there is the issue of how good is your 12V??? If the battery is partially bad; or if your vehicle happens to have wimpy stock wiring to the 12V plug then there could be a large, momentary voltage drop when the compressor kicks in, causing it to not work (if it somehow senses <11.5V, it will not run, in order to preserve your battery).
To truly conclude that 12V does not work, you should try to connect it as directly as possible to the battery (i.e. you could clamp jumper cables from the battery to the appropriate parts of the 12V socket plug, etc.).
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Thanks for the pic. Did you try 12V power from a different battery? Or maybe with a more direct connection to your existing battery? If the system seems to power up momentarily then shut off, it is most likely the case that (a) either your battery is nearly bad, or (b) there is too large a voltage drop in the long run of wiring from your battery to your 12V socket.
If you try these things, and it still doesn't work...I'll try to pull off my controller and check the back wiring for you.
If you try these things, and it still doesn't work...I'll try to pull off my controller and check the back wiring for you.