2nd or 3rd Gen 4Runner

Martinjmpr

Wiffleball Batter
Gorgeous! That Imperial Jade Mica (IJM) is my absolute favorite color! Sadly, it was only offered for one year (2003) in the 4th gens but every time I see one I nearly break my neck looking at it!

5 speed + E-locker + great condition seems like a steal at $3500!

So since nobody else has asked, I will: What happened to your Lexus LX450? :confused:
 

CYi5

Explorer
$3500 is a crazy price..almost too low...Looks nice though. Could always find a rolled 3rd gen for ~$2500, and a clean 2nd gen for $1,500 and do a body swap :) Reliability and power plus the larger rear storage of the 2nd gen, tailgate, and rear swing out tire carrier.
 

98roamer

Explorer
I bought a Xterra in 12/99 and loved it! It was very utilitarian and bulletproof reliable. But as mentioned MPG was bad and the work truck type of interior grew old. 2005 sold the X to my parents, who love it and bought a 98 4Runner Limited with e-locker. We love it but the 3 gen 4runner has been covered. I wouldn't go back to the 1gen X but I would look at the 2gen. The X was more reliable than the 4Runner but I still really only look at the 4gen maybe the 5gen to replace our 3gen 4Runner.
 

AxleIke

Adventurer
2nd gens didn't have trans problems as far as the unit, the unit itself is actually very indestructible. The ones I replaced in my time working for Toyota/Lexus were few and far between. The problem with automatic trucks was the amount of power you lose behind the 3.0(that everyone hates). The best modification I did to my drive line was do a 5 speed swap. I have been driving this truck going on almost 8 years and for about 5? of them it was automatic geared with 5.71's and the automatic still couldn't keep up.

Other problem they have is the head gasket recall. Everyone blames the 3.0 for a lot and the standard answer for repairing a 3.0 among the Toyota world is "3.4 swap it" because of the HG problem and "poor gas mileage" but to be fair we are comparing two different motors from two different generations of trucks and from two different times. Comparing a 12v SOHC to a 24v DOHC isnt fair at all. In the same time frame the 3VZ-FE DOHC didnt really have much more impressive power. Any rate, if the repair was done correctly the 3.0 is very under credited and is very reliable and is very bullet proof. Proper choice of gearing helps a lot too depending on your application.

The other problem everyone complains about is the IFS system. The IFS system is also very under credited. The standard answer is to SAS. In the 8 years of abuse on my 5.71 set up(which everyone swears is the weakest) locked front AND rear, I can count the amount of CV failures I have had on one hand and the truck is not used lightly and carries a heavy load on a daily basis as it is my ONLY vehicle. The weakest link in the IFS after locking is the passenger side "stub shaft" which will twist off like a bottle top but can be modified with no problems to be reliable. Flex is a complaint but my truck goes anywhere I want to put it and everyone I am on the trail with is either SAS'd or in a factory straight axle vehicle and I can assure you we get into some pretty hardcore scenery. The weak link is the steering, the idler arm and tie rods. The cost of upgrading these items IS the difference between a properly done swap. Other then that I do not have a bad thing to say about the IFS system as I have pushed it on purpose to prove a point over the years and even had it on 39.5 TSL boggers to see how long it would take the abuse.

The 2nd gen I feel is more of a simple truck compared to the 3rd. Less computers and luxury items to worry about, I seen someone say their 3rd gen had rear head, 1st(if they had the option) and 2nd gens also did. Depending on your direction for your built IFS vs SAS the cost difference is dramatically higher on a 3rd gen, but here again it depends on which direction you go. I think the seats are more comfortable, as far as room they are basically the same, the dash board in the 3rd gen and a lot of other misc interior items look basically like the 2nd gen just more updated. For me simplicity is key, and I kind of feel bad chopping up a newer truck to my needs compared to an older truck which has already been thru the hammers and could use some fixing and modification to fix problems. I can go on and on.

Pics of my 4runner are in the link in my signature below. I am def not downing a 3rd gen or any 4runner either, just my insights on driving a 2nd gen for so many years and being around Toyotas of all kinds as I do work for the company

I disagree but, then again, that's what the internet is all about, no? :D LOL!

Your point about apples and oranges with regard to the 3.4 and 3.0 isn't really valid. While the 3.0 isn't a BAD motor, it is significantly harder to work on, and simply has less power. Since the OP is comparing the two versions of the 4runner, the power difference is a very important factor to consider, depending on your needs. Mileage is pretty similar.

As for the IFS, I agree with your points about IFS vs SAS. My 87 had 35's, dual ARB's, Dual transfers with 4.7 gears in the back case, a full flat belly, relocated gas tank, 3 link rear, and got wheeled pretty hard. Zero CV failures. Steering sucked.

However, if the OP wants to keep it IFS, the third gen system is superior in ride quality, and maintaining alignment. Torsion bars seem to work well under a heavy 100 series LC, but under a lightweight truck like a 4runner with a V6, the ride of a coilover is much better.
 

one80auto

New member
I'm guessing that the timing belt, H2O pump, pulleys and ball joints would be around $1K-ish based on the aforementioned resource - Thank you, btw, one80auto, for that great resource. I'm waiting to hear back on the car. It belongs to a soldier now in Europe and his mom is helping with the sale. She is going to give me the skinny on the records.

Glad it helped you out. About four months ago I swapped the timing belt, water pump, tensioners/pulleys, front camshaft/crankshaft seals, and accessory belts. Other than the timing belt nothing was showing indications that it needed to be changed but while I had it all apart, it just made sense. I want to say after doing some shopping for kits I settled on a complete package of all those parts from eBay that had the most OEM and respected replacement parts for around $350.... I think. The labor was free except for the beer I paid myself and with a FSM and all the writeups out there it was a straight forward job. Not sure on the cost of the lower ball joints I am just starting to look at that, but from what I read I will probably go with Tacoma stuff including tie-rod ends, they supposedly have a little extra beef over the 4Runner stock parts.

One thing that just hit me was a couple of things that might be worth looking at in regards to the R150F 5-speed. I don't have any links stored anymore that I can find but they are easily searchable online. There is a plastic bushing on the clutch pedal spring down under the dash that gets worn through. Once it wears through that it starts working on the metal underneath it that can cause a popping sound as you depress the clutch pedal. The noise comes from the clutch assist/return spring moving around in the groove cause by the wear. I pulled it that type spring out and replaced with a good ol' fashion return spring from a 2nd gen. Secondly, the point where the slave cylinder pushes on the shift fork on the side of the transmission can get slop in it causing a pretty annoying chirping sound, especially at a stop idling caused by the two lightly vibrating against each other. Mine is caused by a my pivot point being worn and will get sorted out with the next clutch replacement. Most people can get rid of it by adjusting/lengthening the linkage rod from the pedal to the master cylinder to take up the slop. Neither of these are hard to fix or expensive to fix but might be something to read up on before looking at the truck. It is a great transmission, I am glad I held out for a 5-speed.
 

Schattenjager

Expedition Leader
PM sent.

I am running out of time in a big fashion - if you know of a good 4runner for sale, please let me know ASAP - I took off work today to find something since a buddy can help drive me around. Tomorrow I have no such options.
 

MCObray

Explorer
Find a Highlander if you can. Somehow, I stumbled into one within' a week of searching that was in my budget. The additions I liked in the T4R Highlander was the cloth interior, 2 12v & 1 12v in the rear, hood scoop, sun roof, sliding rear window, color matched bumpers, and E-Locker! If you haven't already scour CLs, search tempest, etc. Also go onto T4R.org and check the vehicle classifieds. Some nice looking Runners for sale recently. Good luck on your search!
 

Martinjmpr

Wiffleball Batter
The additions I liked in the T4R Highlander was the cloth interior, 2 12v & 1 12v in the rear,

All 99+ 3rd gen 4runners have the 3 power outlets in the front (1 cigarette lighter and 2 other power outlets) + 1 in the rear. Some have sunroofs and many have E-lockers as well. The only thing the Highlander package gets you is the hood scoop and the body colored paint on the bumpers. IOW, Highlander/Sport Edition is merely a cosmetic trim package. ;)
 

98roamer

Explorer
There seems to be a small run on 3Gen 4Runner but in turn more are showing up for sale. This seems like a decent deal: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/sale-vehicles/139622-built-1998-4runner-sale.html

Timing is everything, we are looking to buy a 4Gen and I would get her 3Gen 4Runner but my corolla will not die and we don't need two 4Runners. I plan and maintain to keep my cars for 20yrs so I'm little early to sell my 98' 4Runner but my 93 corolla is not ready to go. I should just sell both and we both get newer.
 

Booosted Supra

Observer
I disagree but, then again, that's what the internet is all about, no? :D LOL!

Your point about apples and oranges with regard to the 3.4 and 3.0 isn't really valid. While the 3.0 isn't a BAD motor, it is significantly harder to work on, and simply has less power. Since the OP is comparing the two versions of the 4runner, the power difference is a very important factor to consider, depending on your needs. Mileage is pretty similar.

As for the IFS, I agree with your points about IFS vs SAS. My 87 had 35's, dual ARB's, Dual transfers with 4.7 gears in the back case, a full flat belly, relocated gas tank, 3 link rear, and got wheeled pretty hard. Zero CV failures. Steering sucked.

However, if the OP wants to keep it IFS, the third gen system is superior in ride quality, and maintaining alignment. Torsion bars seem to work well under a heavy 100 series LC, but under a lightweight truck like a 4runner with a V6, the ride of a coilover is much better.

To each their own like you said basically. I think comparing 2 motors with two totally different set ups and technology is wrong. With all my years of Toyota experience I strongly disagree that the 3.0 is hard to work on. It may look intimidating to someone who just first opens the hood but so are EVAP problems to the average garage mechanic on a 3.4 truck I am sure(I am talking about real evap problems not a loose gas cap and that was just an example) I can tare down and replace a bottom end/or head on either motor and test drive it by the end of the day(once again probably not fair as I maintain these vehicles on a regular daily basis anyway). As far as HP increase and mileage, a healthy 3.0(without an automatic) gets reasonable gas mileage for its age and time and has plenty of power. Like my signature says the standard answer on how to fix a 3.0 in the Toyota world is 3.4 swap it which just plain stupid, if your going to go thru the trouble of a engine swap there are plenty of BETTER options then a V series Toyota engine when all it takes is knowledge and know how to make what you have work. Even though there was a campaign launched for the HG on the 2nd gen, I have replaced quite a few 3rd gen motors.

As far as the IFS systems, and better ride quality vs 2nd and 3rd gen. 2nd gen has better parts availability on the road if your in a jam. Torsion bars can hold a good amount of weight with out sacrificing ride quality and stock they really dont drive bad, my truck carrys a heavy load daily and I actually have my bars really relaxed. A bent tie rod on a 3rd gen can cost you 1000's if you damage the rack opposed to a couple hundred. Ball joint cost vs control arms can get expensive, there is alot of pro's and con's of both sides.

Its all about preference, simplicity, and reliability. They are both excellent trucks. Just like another vehicle ever made a newer vehicle is going to have more undated options. Like IKE said its really preference on what the OP looks for as far as needs in a vehicle. No ones wrong here.
 

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