High Desert/Hot Springs
Each fall over the past three years we’ve headed southwest for a hot springs and high desert trip. This time we began by visiting friends in Orofino, Idaho then moved south toward Steen’s Mountain, Alvord Desert, Sheldon Refuge (NV) and Hart Mountain Refuge before returning via Bend and the east side of the Cascades.
We stopped coming and going along the Yakima River Canyon which has some nice options for camping and some decent opportunities for fishing and watching Big Horn Sheep.
The Big Pines Campground is open year round and a bargain at $15/night. We paid the geezer rate of $7.50. On our way through we hiked the adjacent mountain for a view of the river and to get a better look at the small herd of High Horn Sheep that were working the east side of the road.
Crystal Crane Hot Springs east of Burns, OR has a few tipis with horse troughs inside that can be filled with water. We spent a night there before heading south to check out the impressive views of Harney County — yes, that Harney County made infamous by the Bundy Bros — including the Round Barn, Frenchglen and the Steen’s Mountain Loop. The latter provides access to a rugged wilderness that includes a canyon that wouldn’t be out of place in the high arctic. The 9,600’ overlook also gave us the first glimpse of the Alvord Desert, where we would travel to later that week.
We spent three nights at the
South Steens Campground which has a number of trailheads leading into the wilderness area. The High Indian Valley trail and the Riddle Brothers Ranch Trail were easy hikes. Hunters were moving in for the start of Mule Deer Season.
I bought a 100 watt Renogy portable solar panel and controller before the tip so we could spend a third night at the same place without worrying about the house battery. It worked well and is a robust piece of equipment.
It snowed the morning we left Steen’s campground. The Mustangs were along the side of the road looking somewhat confused by the early change in weather. And it continued to snow for the next few days. Not much accumulation where we were, but the mountains and passes west of us were covered. We spent a busy Saturday night at the
Alvord Hot Springs. Interesting people and hot soaking are worth the parking lot camp sites. Next time we will park across the street in the less busy lot.
From Alvord we moved southwest to the
Sheldon Antelope Refuge The Virgin Valley campground is free. There’s a shower in the bath house by the pond. Its constant flow is warmed from the adjacent spring. It’s worth a visit.
The
Gorge of 1000 Creeks would at least have a little sign in any other place in north america. It’s huge, and such a surprise to come upon after the long hike up the mesa. The entrance gives a hint of the height to be found at the top, but still that first glance down 1500’ is awe inspiring. The snow and hail shortened our stay and kept us away from being too close to the edge.
We’ve been to the
Hart Mountain Hot Springs before, and referred to it on this trip as the turnaround point. We didn’t spend the night. It was snowing and the temperature for the evening was going to be 0 Fahrenheit. We soaked and left, camping at the base of the mountain. Still, ice was 3” thick the next morning.
After an evening in Bend at a hotel we started for home. The Oregon map shows a place near the blighted Christmas Valley called
Crack in the Ground.. We took the poor road off the highway after seeing a small sign pointing north. It's a very cool place and worth the winding and rutted road.
having another hose for the stove, but think this approach gives me more flexibility
