North Fork of the Clearwater River
There is a gravel road that follows the North Fork of the Clearwater River in Idaho for about 170 miles into the Bitterroots and over Hoodoo Pass on the Montana border. The Pierce, ID to Superior, MT section is part of the Idaho Backcountry Discovery Route. After a nice visit with friends in Orofino, Idaho we spent the better part of a week camping and hiking along this route.
Clearwater County Road 147 leads into Road 250 at Pierce. We began the route with a fishing trip at the Isabella Creek trailhead. Our friends and Eve fished while I photographed and offered encouragement and put up a tarp that came in handy when the rain and hail started.
Our first camp was at Weitas Creek, which is a large tributary of the North Fork of the Clearwater. The rain continued for most of our stay but didn’t interfere with Eve’s fly fishing and our walks. The camp sites have river access and the trails follow the creek into the wilderness. We spent three nights here.
We had heard the road was washed out from the rain in a couple of spots along Black Rock Canyon which we wanted to drive to get to our next camp at Cedar Bridge. A grader had been working for a day to clear the rock slides and with that a much smoother track was being created. And aside from some stray rocks and tight corners, the drive was uneventful.
The Cedars Campground was dark, damp and muddy. We plowed through a rather deep pool of water and set our camp along the North Fork in a dispersed site called Cedar Bridge. It is one of the best water-side camps we’ve found accessible by road. It is in the open with a large cedar offering shade — the sun finally came out. While this was the run up to the Independence Day weekend, there were few cars along the road and even less coming over the bridge.
We walked the forest service roads and along a trail to Trap Creek over our 3 night stay. I set the solar panels to recharge the battery each day with continued sun. A family set up camp in another site on July 3, bringing with them the happy camper sounds of a 6 year old boy.
Eve’s temporary fishing license had expired the day before but she wanted to practice her cast off the bank of our camp. She came into camp after an hour with a concerned look on her face. She had spotted a sheriff’s truck stopped on the bridge watching her and it had moved into the campground. She was certain he knew her license had expired. The truck stopped just on the other side of the cedar at our camp site. I came around the corner and waited while I supposed the deputy was running our plates. He finally came into camp and asked if I was Reeves, and wondering if an Eve was with me. He was doing a welfare check. I started laughing as she came around the back of the truck. He said he was doing a welfare check on us and Eve started telling him about her Covid-19 test which was negative (she’s been working as a speech pathologist part time and had the test twice before we left). The deputy joined me in laughter while I explained what a welfare check was to her.
On our first long kayak trip just after our wedding in 2001 Eve’s Irish mother asked me how she would know that we were okay during the two week-long trip in Southeast Alaska. I looked at her and said, “ We’ll give you a call every now and then on the satellite phone I’m going to buy tomorrow.” That phone became almost useless when the U.S. invaded Iraq as the satellites were repositioned to cover the middle east. Alaska got 10 minutes an hour for potential coverage. I gave-up on the phone and bought the 1st generation SPOT. It has been a great tool for letting friends — and in-laws — know of our whereabouts. However, it can fail to send a message and especially in tight river canyons. So, for 4 days there was no SPOT transmission. Also, I learned later that Eve had told her mother that she would text her ever day. She also told her we might be out of cell service but obviously that point wasn’t made strongly enough. We’ve paddled the entire length of the Inside Passage, we’ve paddled the outer coast of Baranof Island and from Sitka to Juneau. I’ve paddled most of Baffin, been tracked by polar bears and have been to places in the Canadian high arctic and Alaska that most people never see. I’ve never had to activate an Epirb, never dangled from a helicopter and never had a sheriff come looking for me. Until then.
We laughed more with the Deputy, then he went off down the road 45 miles to his remote station. I learned when we got into cell service that Eve’s mother was relieved to get the call back from the Sheriff. So, now we have a new rule. If her parents are concerned about us they are to call a close friend who was with us on most of those kayak trips in Alaska, and his charge is to tell them we are fine, unless he can see our blood.
Later that evening our neighbors brought out a home made cannon and shot golf balls across the river. Eve was offered a chance to load, prime and fire the canyon. It was fun.
The 10 miles of road from Cedar Bridge to Hoodoo Pass is paved. The pass itself offers wonderful views into the Bitterroots. From there to Superior MT is a downhill run which ends at I 90.
We’re going to use this route on our visits with the friends in Orofino in the future.