33" tire and solar panel updates

[asteffes]

I have no idea how quiet these little Hondas are, but I hope they're darn near silent because I would not want to listen to one running all day or night if I'm camping next to you. The last thing we need in the backcountry is more noise pollution. Trucks and dirtbikes with loud exhausts are bad enough.

 

[Desertdude]

easy...

http://www.mayberrys.com/honda/generator/html/sound.htm

Most generators on the market put out a very annoying rumble - the Hondas have a pleasant tone -quieter than a heard of crickets :victory:

 

[Brian894x4]

I have no idea how quiet these little Hondas are, but I hope they're darn near silent because I would not want to listen to one running all day or night if I'm camping next to you. The last thing we need in the backcountry is more noise pollution. Trucks and dirtbikes with loud exhausts are bad enough.

Well, I rarely camp in a regular camp ground, but I see what you are saying. I probably wouldn't use one at night in a campground with nieghbors, even as quiet as they are. But otherwise, I've now heard them run and they are pretty quiet.

The size and weight difference between the EU1000 and EU2000 is significant, although I can see the EU2000 being the better unit for most people who want a generator for what a generator is usually used for.

A couple interesting specs on both models. The EU1000 has a max output of 1000 watts, but a rated output of 900 watts, which I guess is what it can put out for any length of time. The EU2000 has a max output of 2000, but it's rated output is significantly less, at 1600 watts.

I think for most base camp set ups and especially anything involving something like use of even a small heater or heavy power tool, the EU2000 would be the minimum. But it takes up at least a 1/3 more space and is about 1/3 heavier. Probably closer to twice as heavy when both are filled up. I still opt for the EU1000 since my use is more emergency and light duty.

For some reason both units put out the same DC power at about 8amps at a maximum 12 volts. They must be native AC units and both have the same DC converter. And apparently 12 volts is the maximum DV voltage, so if you have something that runs better on 13 or 14 volts, you'll need to run it off a battery and then charge the battery with the generator. Also, the DC powerplug is sold seperately, but is only about $10.

The other thing is that "apparently" niether unit as a DC cutoff switch to prevent overcharging, so I'm not sure how that works. If the maximum voltage is only 12 volts, maybe it can't overcharge a battery. I'm not sure. Any ideas on how to get around this? I suppose one could just run a battery charger off the AC plug and use the battery charger's cut switch if it has one.

Finally, during peak fire season, the Forest Service and BLM usually bans any gas motored equipment, except for vehicles on main forest roads, so does anyone know if these little Hondas have an exemption to that since they are apparently equipment with spark arrestors, or would the same rule that applies to chainsaws, etc, apply to them?

 

[BajaXplorer]

You may want to look at Yamaha as well.
Yamaha EF1000iS is about the same, pure sine wave, comes with the DC cables, cost $680 here with free shipping. I read somewhere that both the little Honda and Yamaha are FS approved.
I have neither of them or a preference for either (other than to save a little).
BX

 

[Hltoppr]

DesertDude's Honda is sooo quiet you can have a normal conversation standing right by it and not be bothered in the slightest! (And the PA/Ipod setup kicks butt for outback get togethers!)

-H-

 

[Brian894x4]

Looking the specs of both the Honda EU1000 and the Yamaha EF1000 is kind of interesting. Both put out the exact same power, have the same warranty and are pretty close to the same price. The dimensions and weight are also nearly identical. The motor is the same size, but not power.

The Yamaha makes 2.2 h.p while the Honda makes 1.8 h.p. You'd think this would translate into more efficiency with the Honda, but apparently not so.

With the Yamaha's .66 gallon tank at 225 watts, you get 12.8 hours of usage. With the Honda's .60 gallon tank at 225 watts, you get 8.3 hours of usage. That's a pretty striking difference in favor of the Yamaha unless I'm missing something.

The Yamaha is quieter @47-57Db, verses 53-59Db is you rely on manufacture's specs, but in testing I've seen the Honda is quieter in eco mode.

The Yamaha also comes with a DC cable and some tools and I think a cover, which the Honda does not. But the Honda can be run parallel with another unit of the same type. Not sure if the Yamaha can.

The Yamaha seems to have the edge in the specs department, but I lean towards the Honda, because I have a LOT of faith and experience in Honda engines and I can get one really easy locally.

 

[DaveInDenver]

For some reason both units put out the same DC power at about 8amps at a maximum 12 volts. They must be native AC units and both have the same DC converter.

A generator is nothing more than an engine driving an alternator, not really unlike the one in our trucks. A traditional generator has a perfect sine output naturally, the frequency of which is controlled by the speed of the rotation. The problem with this type of generator is that they must always spin the alternator at the right speed to make 60Hz, so they are typically loud all the time.

So, to make things quieter, the Honda and Yamaha build what's called inverter generators. They technically generate DC power and use a good power inverter. They actually use two sets of windings on the alternator. One is run straight to a full wave rectifier and that produces the DC output. The other is run into a rectifier and then into an inverter. By doing it this way, they can throttle the engine to whatever speed they want, since the engine speed no longer dictates the frequency of the output. Engine speed is only relative to load, higher loads mean higher RPMs. This is a direct analog to running an electric winch on your truck. At idle, there is insufficient current generated by the alternator, so the battery drains faster than at higher RPMs.

So my guess is that the car battery charging circuit rectifier used on the various models is probably the same, that's why the ratings are the same.

The other thing is that "apparently" niether unit as a DC cutoff switch to prevent overcharging, so I'm not sure how that works. If the maximum voltage is only 12 volts, maybe it can't overcharge a battery. I'm not sure. Any ideas on how to get around this? I suppose one could just run a battery charger off the AC plug and use the battery charger's cut switch if it has one.

A battery will self regulate as long as the voltage is held constant. As a battery charges, it's internal resistance increases as it approaches full charge. With a constant voltage, the current goes down as resistance goes up. You don't need a overcharge protector as long as the voltage is regulated correctly.