3500 RAM Prospector + Alu Cabin + Custom Bed

hdas

Active member
The motivation behind this thread is to chronicle the decision-making process of the build, garner feedback, and hopefully serve as a useful resource for fellow travelers in the future. The vision for this build revolves around crafting an off-road capable vehicle that's comfortable enough to transport gear and provide two separate sleeping environments, all while prioritizing low weight and optimal aerodynamics as much as possible. The goal is to have the main components in place to start traveling in mid April/2024. No budget constrains per se, but every component has to be justified in its utility, quality and contribution to the overall goal.

Phase 1 of the Build is in the books. I secured a truck that meets our payload needs . To me, the 3500/F-350 represents a threshold, distinguishing somewhat standard-sized trucks from the Earthroamer variants. For any questions or comments about the truck, please refer to the linked thread.

The subsequent phases don't necessarily follow a strict sequence, but it’s vital to consider several key aspects to minimize redundancy, incompatibility, and wastefulness.

Phase 2: Upfitting - AEV is my chosen partner for foundational tire/wheel, suspension, and armor upgrades. It caters perfectly to my needs as a complete neophyte while providing solid evidence of quality, OEM integration and support.

Phase 3: Camper - Alu Cab gets the nod here. It uniquely provides two separate sleeping environments while keeping weight and bulk in check. Their accessory lineup and solutions aptly cover standard needs and require minimal customization for our use case. Again, a big company that has refined a well crafted product with creative solutions.

Phase 4: Custom Bed - This is a new angle in our initial concept. The goal? To refine the kitchen setup (a pivotal point for my wife), an aspect where Alu Cab’s offerings reveal their compromises for a more streamlined camper. It's not 100% decided, but I'm seriously exploring the possibility. The main drawback is that can potentially delay the build completion date.

Phase 5: Additional Accessories - This phase involves integrating products that cater to our specific preferences and hobbies.

I’ve quickly grasped that this project will perpetually siphon funds. It's a hobby that satisfies the explicit goal of travel but also caters to an implicit desire to shop, optimize, and tinker—akin in many ways to home ownership. If this hobby follows the trajectory of our other pursuits, the scope and scale of trips will likely ramp up swiftly. For a glimpse of inspiration, here’s a video from one of my favorite areas. Many trails, familiar from my biking adventures, are places I eagerly anticipate bringing my family. It also showcases the type of challenging terrain the vehicle will need to traverse.

I’ll delve deeper into each phase down the line. This is simply the project’s foundational framework. Eagerly awaiting your constructive feedback and questions. Conscious of our collective susceptibility to confirmation bias, I'm all ears for thoughtful criticism and contrarian perspectives.

 
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hdas

Active member
First, lets update our payload estimations. This critical issue is subject to Parkinson's Law, which can be interpreted as: the observation that the payload use expands to fill its allotted max payload capacity, regardless of the amount of one's needs. Naturally, this list will undergo revisions, being finessed through experience and the paring down of unneeded items. Items highlighted in red include a "fudge factor" to accommodate uncertainty, while those in yellow represent pure guesses due to limited information at this stage. It's almost bewildering to consider a scenario where I'm utilizing 75% of a 1-ton truck's payload (my max threshold). Initially, I thought a Tundra would suffice! :ROFLMAO:

AEV will re-rate the payload and will put a new sticker. This is my estimation. The delta will be the combination of added weight and higher loading rating of the new tires. This list doesn't include the change in payload due to the custom bed. At this moment I don't know if it subtracts or adds, compared to the stock bed.

1697126381206.png
 

hdas

Active member
Speaking of which, I touched on the Ford box in your other tread. FWIW found this for RAM. If current the MY is same as 2019 you're looking at 337lbs for stock bed wt plus rear bumper presumably. Call it 400lbs. Still, I think a replacement will be heavier.
Thank you for this. I saw a Bowen walkaround where they stated the increase weight was 150lbs...So I would account for 250lbs

Ostensibly, the Bowen people know how to deal with these:

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Just want to make a copy of this info:

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hdas

Active member
Right now, the most important decision is: Do we go with the custom bed or not?

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  • In a ram 3500 the drawers seem big enough to actually do interesting things with them.
  • Im thinking about using the spare wheel empty space for an air compressor, wonder if that can be integrated into the bed to have an outlet.
  • What other useful things can be customized if I decide to go this route?
Pros:
  • Best storage and kitchen solution for our build.
  • Looks cool
  • Less paint to protect against rocks and brush scratches.
Cons:
  • No rear bumper
  • 150-250lbs of extra weight.
  • Cost.
  • Potentially delayed deadline.
  • Slightly wider than stock bed -- Worse aerodynamics.
I have an appointment to visit their shop, inspect the product and ask some questions.
  • Can we sell the stock bed, how much?. How easy is to sell it?
  • Can the integrate the sensors and/or cameras
  • Can 37" tires fit at extreme angles of articulation and not rub anything?
  • How much added weight should I expect ?
  • Have they fit it to an Alu Cabin?, what are the specific details of this combination?
  • Do they match the dimensions of the original bed?
  • What solutions for rear protection are available?
  • Options for customization.
  • What are the deadlines.
As of now, Bowen Customs seems to be the favorite. I like their style and they are in Colorado. I've seen a couple of other options: Sherptek and Highway Products, however they are a bit more commercial truck looking. Still worth inquiring. Does anybody know of other shops doing high quality custom beds?
 

UglyViking

Well-known member
The whole tray thing is starting to hit hard stateside, so there are both conus and oconus options. Bowen makes some really high quality looking stuff. OZ land has Norweld and MITS Alloy stateside. Nuthouse Industries and SET overland exist, but both may be a hair more "commercial" than you're looking for. Heard good things about the PCOR systems trays, but they have since abandoned them in favor of focusing on their trailers.

I really want a tray, but man I'm having a hard time justifying the cost. You're talking about 20-25k for a tray and canopy, which is a lot.

For your specific use case, the options are a bit more limited. The only option I've seen thus far that integrates a cap style camper is the Bowen customs one, perhaps others know of other brands. You could potentially go flatbed and have boxes built, or buy commercial boxes and just seal it up good, but I think the look wouldn't be what you're going for.

Honestly, I would think you should start with your factory bed before you start tossing an insane amount into the build. Often times you're not gonna make back but half the major modifications you put into it, and if it ends up not being what you think, you're out a good chunk of change. So long as you setup your storage for meal prep is containers well, it's not all that bad really, and so you can at least figure out what you want and don't want.

My experience was that I bought a fiberglass topper and wedge style RTT. I disliked the style of RTT and ended up losing a bit of cash selling, even after buying used. It wasn't everything I thought I wanted.
 

hdas

Active member
I would think you should start with your factory bed before you start tossing an insane amount into the build.

I’ve given considerable thought to this. My commitment to AEV brings a certain constraint. If managed correctly, I could obtain a credit for the unused rear bumper and fender flares when opting for a custom bed. Plus, the costs for a solution in the spare space might be reduced if addressed while the bed is off.

The driving force behind the bed customization is to bring joy to my wife. She hasn’t voiced complaints, yet I harbor some guilt. I'm indulging in a splendid truck, which doesn’t pique her interest, while her ideal kitchen setup remains unfulfilled. She has a genuine interest in the "home" aspect of this rig. And objectively, the AluCab kitchen solution is terrible, who wants to cook in the entrance to your truck and away from the fridge and no sink?

The whole tray thing is starting to hit hard stateside, so there are both conus and oconus options. Bowen makes some really high quality looking stuff. OZ land has Norweld and MITS Alloy stateside. Nuthouse Industries and SET overland exist, but both may be a hair more "commercial" than you're looking for. Heard good things about the PCOR systems trays, but they have since abandoned them in favor of focusing on their trailers.

Thanks for this references. Here are some links:

Norweld Tray
Mits Alloy

and if it ends up not being what you think

Although my threads here are relatively recent, it may appear we’re only now weighing our options. In reality, my wife and I have dedicated many months to research, visiting outfitters, and probing into challenging questions. While our endeavors remain theoretical currently, we aspire that they guide us toward decisions aligning closely with our expectations and enhance our satisfaction with the final rig.
 

renottse

Member
Agree with @UglyViking

My take,

Yes, but no. Yes you need to order one cause the lead times are long, no you don’t need it now, throw the Alu Cab in and get camping… and start taking notes on what you need the tray to do better than the bed.

For us the flatbed helped because we went with a flatbed camper for more room inside. It helped with the camper off as transporting stuff on a flatbed is functional. Got $500 for the old bed so something at least. The flatbed storage has been useful, not fantastic. The one you’re considering would be better.

I’d definitely go Bowen over my Norweld (Bowen were not doing the flatbed when we got ours) and I’d definitely be consulting my notes of what I’d get customized.
For example I’d want the rear boxes bigger, this departure angle cut BS has to go, I’m never going to hit boxes before the hitch.

Opinion, you need to change CON no rear bumper to PRO.

The bumper or aftermarket alternatives are one of the constraints that stop the spare wheel being put in the factory location. Sure there’s some other things you have to modify but they are not major and you’ve got enough width for a 37 between the frame rails. You really want to just get it placed and never have to think of it. I’m thinking opening and closing a bumper mounted spare is going to get old fast, even faster when it’s covered in dust / mud.

Can’t even see it on ours but it’s in there directly behind the winch. The modified curt hitch also has the ability to severely remand anybody who chooses tag it, good enough rear protection for me.

IMG_6924.jpeg

Side profile shows the same, tucked up and away, still uses factory winding mechanism.

IMG_7106.jpeg

Proof it’s in there

IMG_7197.jpeg

Air compressor will fit easily in one of the side boxes, just got to think inside the box… I mounted mine on the top of the box so there’s still usable space.

IMG_7196.jpeg

You’ve got some nice “problems “ to consider, enjoy the process, all of a sudden you’ll just be using it and thinking about 2.0.
 

hdas

Active member
The bumper or aftermarket alternatives are one of the constraints that stop the spare wheel being put in the factory location. Sure there’s some other things you have to modify but they are not major and you’ve got enough width for a 37 between the frame rails. You really want to just get it placed and never have to think of it. I’m thinking opening and closing a bumper mounted spare is going to get old fast, even faster when it’s covered in dust / mud.

Wow!. Thanks a lot!. So the argument would be, because I'm already messing with new bed, I can take advantage of the process to do the modifications needed to put the 37" spare where it needs to be, under the bed. This is brilliant! How come very few people do this?

Sure there’s some other things you have to modify but they are not major and you’ve got enough width for a 37 between the frame rails.

Could you elaborate a bit on the modifications needed for this setup please? I just went down and measure the space. It seems to around 37" so it could be tight.

and start taking notes on what you need the tray to do better than the bed.

This is key......I don't know what I don't know and only experience will teach. But realistically, given the weather here (got first big snow of the year last 2 days) + lead times for AluCabin install, we are not going anywhere in a while. Specially given that we are travelling with a toddler. We do get plenty of outdoor action, just not overnight yet.
 
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renottse

Member
Yes, because you’re going to consider the bed as an alternative you need to consider the alternatives it opens up. I went through the “what if…” loop many times with a focus on what can I get out of the truck/camper because that’s living/traveling space. i.e I actually solved the spare wheel in the factory location while working out how to mount a rear winch.

So, spare tire.

First off my solution being the result of getting a winch back there considers more things than just the spare so it might be easier if just clearing the spare.

I first took the factory hitch off and got the spare up there to see what was what.

IMG_4111.jpegIMG_4110.jpeg
So yes it fits between the rails

Then had a look at how far back the hitch has to go to clear the tire… caveat I’m putting it further back to allow clearance for winch and wiring
IMG_4117.jpeg

This is my ball park winch clearance so you could easily come 2-3” closer.

IMG_4118.jpeg

With the hitch gone you get this void which I didn’t want
IMG_4119.jpeg

So I cut both ends of the factory hitch and bolted them back in ( this picture has new side plates but gives the idea)

IMG_7198.jpeg

Some internet searching got me to a Curt C15803 which is a class V 2 1/2 “ receiver and pretty dam close with how it drops the hitch, it however doesn’t clear the 37 by say 2” (no pic sorry)

This was an easy fix I just needed the cross bar further back. I had all the hole locations form the Curt hitch so just cardboard aided designed a longer side piece (its mirrored so only on needed).

Got a local fab shop to burn a bend.
IMG_4760.jpeg

I then welded and raptor’d
IMG_4768.jpeg

The winch plate
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You’ve got all the necessary bolts to mount as part of the Curt purchase so that’s hitch done.

I mount my spare the opposite to factory because it gets hammered by stones (trucks got good suspension and tires so yes we roll at a pace on dirt in NV)

IMG_7204.jpeg

That’s my 10 attachments, tbc
 

renottse

Member
So with the wheel backwards you need to cut this down 1 1/2” for an AEV wheel.

IMG_7203.jpeg

Then you need to protect the tire from this cross bar, coach bolt through 1/2” heavy rubber mat, double nutted with red loctite. Bolt goes up when compressed by tire.

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Relocated hole

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The ugly bit… my flatbed has cross bars which limits the space for the relocated tire winch so it has run at a crazy angle. Not worried as this doesn’t go up and down daily. The red circle is where I cut it so I could relocate the piece on the right. It’s welded in place on the other side. IF the bed was off when you did this you’d be able to get it flat, reshape and extend the tube the wire runs in. me, it works, has done for years no new mouse trap needed. IMG_7200.jpeg

There maybe guys up in Canada who have a bolt in solution, can’t remember where I saw it, somebody will chime in.
 

ramblinChet

Well-known member
My suggestion is to perform basic upgrades to the truck and head out to begin enjoying some adventure. Over the next year or so it will become obvious what you really need and more importantly, what you do not.

I have one friend who has a roof top tent and all he does is sleep in it - everything else is done outside, cooking, sitting in a chair, etc. Another guy has a camper on the rear of his dually that is literally like a small apartment - he drives into forest and rarely comes outside. Most folks like a little bot of both - I enjoy cooking and sitting outside on a nice day but if the weather is awful, I am still able to do everything inside for a few days. My Four Wheel Camper is nice enough inside for a few days of bad weather but not so comfortable that it keeps me inside all the time. It really depends upon the individual.

Getting back to my suggestion to purchase the basics, and begin exploring - don't overthink this and create a list of "must haves" where most are really luxury items. Part of the fun is going out with basics and discovering what you really need. Besides a reliable vehicle, my two must haves are a comfortable place to sleep, and somewhere to store perishable foods such as a cooler or 12 Vdc refrigerator. If you are only going out for a weekend, maybe a cooler with ice will work, but keep in mind the ice will occupy valuable space.

For a long list of reasons, I would hold off on a specialized bed. Maybe in a year or so you will make up your mind and decide one is absolutely necessary. Then you can share your thoughts and photographs with all of us. In between now and then, let's hear stories of adventure and exploration!

Happy trails!!!
 

tacollie

Glamper
I built a homemade utility style bed to fit around our camper. The Bowen is awesome but it wasn't in the budget. Having the storage is a game changer. I have a dry place for tools, shoes, air compressor, trash, chairs, grill, dog food, outdoor toilet, and more. It really frees up a lot of space in the camper and truck. It's so nice not to have to shuffle things around. If you have the budget I recommend a bed swap. I sold my factory bed for $800.
 

Tex68w

Beach Bum
@Kingsize24, care to share your input on all of this?

The cost of a the flatbed is immense, no doubt, so make darn sure it's what you want and/or need prior to making that commitment. Most factory beds bring $500 sometimes up to $1000 but don't count on it. Bowen is the best looking custom bed on the market but they aren't without their issues. Norweld and MITS are great off the shelf options if they meet your needs and if readily available or en route to the states you will be able to get one on your truck in no time compared to a custom.

I am not a fan of your suspension choice, nor are most on this forum but I understand why some would opt to go that route. They make great bumpers and wheels though and I fully support those decisions.
 

Tex68w

Beach Bum
Heard good things about the PCOR systems trays, but they have since abandoned them in favor of focusing on their trailers.

Well this is crappy news, I had no idea. Supposedly SmartCap is set to come out with their flatbeds soon as well which look oddly similar to what PCOR was putting out.
 

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