3rd gen 4runner test drive, vibration question

JasonRedwood

Explorer
Hey there yota friends.
Looking to upgrade to a 3rd gen 4runner from my 1st gen.
Yesterday I test drove a Super clean 2001 4x4 auto 4runner with 88K on the SUV.
I noticed when accelerating that the gas pedal would vibrate. Didn't seem right.
When at an idle speed or slowing down there wasn't any vibrations
I'm new to automatics and was wondering, with my vague description, if anyone might have encountered something similar. Just curious.
The salesman said that the basic routine checks were made and didn't sound like they were going to make any effort to look into the vibration.
Just curious, thanks.

Jason
 

p nut

butter
Are you saying the actual gas pedal would vibrate? And nothing else?? Never heard that one.

If you end up buying it, make sure the timing belt/water pump and 90k service is done.

And if you don't mind my 2 cents, I would go for 96-00 3rd Gen's. 01-02's are fine, but the TRAC/VSC is very invasive. Drove me nuts. I would rather have the factory rear locker.
 

enzo

Explorer
My 2000 Sport does vibrate a little around 50mph (my truck is stock with 167k miles). It's not really that noticeable though.
 

JasonRedwood

Explorer
Are you saying the actual gas pedal would vibrate? And nothing else?? Never heard that one.

If you end up buying it, make sure the timing belt/water pump and 90k service is done.

And if you don't mind my 2 cents, I would go for 96-00 3rd Gen's. 01-02's are fine, but the TRAC/VSC is very invasive. Drove me nuts. I would rather have the factory rear locker.

I can feel a vibration through the pedal that directly relates to accelerating.

Thanks for the info on the trac/vsc.
 

98OzarksRunner

Adventurer
I would have them check the u-joints, especially the double cardan joint at the front of the drive shaft. Vsc-trac can be turned on and off when needed with a 15 minute mod. Multimode is great for snow and ice. You can lock the center diff. An aussie locker is about $300. 88k is low miles for any 3rd gen.
 

Exploresys

New member
Agreed, my 2002 was great after the aforementioned VSC mod. Add an ARB to the rear and they work great. Mine has been quite sensitive to tire and wheel combos, so make sure they look good...also u joints and drive shaft.
 

JasonRedwood

Explorer
Thanks for the input guys! I really appreciate it.
Checking out a 2000 limited with diff locker tomorrow morning.
Has 118k on it. 3" OME suspension, year old. Also a Demello Offroad front bumper. Current owner doesn't know if the water pump and timing chain has been changed, ill check out the carfax tomorrow night. The owner did say that disengaging from 4x4 back to 2x takes throwing it into reverse then drive to fully disengage. Wonder what that's about. Any thoughts?
Cheers
 

thefatkid

Observer
Thanks for the input guys! I really appreciate it.
Checking out a 2000 limited with diff locker tomorrow morning.
Has 118k on it. 3" OME suspension, year old. Also a Demello Offroad front bumper. Current owner doesn't know if the water pump and timing chain has been changed, ill check out the carfax tomorrow night. The owner did say that disengaging from 4x4 back to 2x takes throwing it into reverse then drive to fully disengage. Wonder what that's about. Any thoughts?
Cheers

Possible small difference in tire size, check the sidewalls for size, manufacturer and look for obvious signs of tread depth differences. Tires from a different manufacturer might not be the same height. If all that checks out, you should put it in 4wd and coast straight down a mild slope. If the vehicle binds to a stop you might need to look for a mechanical issue, possibly swapped in differentials with the incorrect ratio. Do not do any turns while checking for binding or you create false results.

edit: if this is an auto transmission the test should be with the gear select in neutral
 

JasonRedwood

Explorer
Possible small difference in tire size, check the sidewalls for size, manufacturer and look for obvious signs of tread depth differences. Tires from a different manufacturer might not be the same height. If all that checks out, you should put it in 4wd and coast straight down a mild slope. If the vehicle binds to a stop you might need to look for a mechanical issue, possibly swapped in differentials with the incorrect ratio. Do not do any turns while checking for binding or you create false results.

edit: if this is an auto transmission the test should be with the gear select in neutral

Thanks Fatkid. All tires seem to be worn even and same size/make
Wish I caught your post earlier. 4x4 engaged but to disengage I had to drive in reverse for a bit while turning left to right.
I did not try the slope test. I can always go back. He said he noticed 4 months ago.
 

tanglefoot

ExPoseur
My parents' '98 is like that...it sometimes takes a little cajoling to get the front ADD to disconnect. Usually just a little driving or rolling around will do it but the reverse/forward trick works well. After a bit, you hear/feel a clunk and the 4wd light goes out. I don't think it's a sign of anything wrong. Just a tiny bit of bind in certain situations that makes the ADD not want to let go right away.

I haven't noticed any gas pedal vibe on it.

I was helping my parents car shop and was originally trying to find one with the E-locker. It really limited availability though and they ended up with one that didn't have it. I'm really pleasantly surprised how well it 4wheels without it though. The coil sprung rear axle has quite a bit more flex than the 1st gen rear axle and it keeps the tires planted pretty well. With the 3.4 and the factory 2.57 low-range, it is just a darn nice wheeler. Comfy and confidence-inspiring. Very rarely do I need to back up and try a different line, and it's always made it over on the second try.

Good luck with the search.
 
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98OzarksRunner

Adventurer
My parents' '98 is like that...it sometimes takes a little cajoling to get the front ADD to disconnect. Usually just a little driving or rolling around will do it but the reverse/forward trick works well. After a bit, you hear/feel a clunk and the 4wd light goes out. I don't think it's a sign of anything wrong. Just a tiny bit of bind in certain situations that makes the ADD not want to let go right away.

I usually have to disengage-reverse-try-again with my 2002 as well (and my old 2001 and 1998). The ADD doesn't always disconnect right away. Sometimes it will even indicate it's disengaged (light off) but you can tell it's still engaged when driving it. One of the quirks of 3rd gens I guess. Not a big deal to me
 

JasonRedwood

Explorer
Thanks again for all the info guys. I would appreciate your input on the 2 contenders.

Hypothetically speaking I maybe able to talk down the stock 2001, 88k, 4x4 and super clean down to $10000. Super clean, diesnt look like it was ever offroaded. Who knows what the vibration is in the gas pedal, but I will get both 4runners checked out before I pull the trigger.
Also hypothetically, I may be able to get the 2000 4runner down to maybe $8500-8800. It has 118k, 3" OME, and custom front bumper and e-locker. Timing chain and water pump has never been maintained. 4x4 not disengaging properly does not seem uncommon. Definitely not as clean as the 2001, sizes of Offroad use but not abused.
I'm leaning towards the 2000 due the elocker and after market stuff.
Any reason that the 2001 would be a betterbet besides the lower mileage? Sorry, I'm new to 3rd gens... ;)
 

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