70 C-20 4x4 Suburban Father/Son project

[NOIBN]

Yes. Your clocking ring is the one at the bottom of this page: NWF Clocking Rings Off Road Design offers them too: ORD clocking rings

This will help tremendously, especially since you aren't going to lift it like all the cool kids do. Pullitbroke has the best plan, IMO. The Dodge 241 is the sweet unit as it has the fixed yoke on it already. Dodge components can be used to convert your GM 208 to a fixed yoke, but the 241 IS a better case. The only problem is the passenger drop Dodge 241s are a little harder to come by than a GM unit (what are the best sources/donors for these??).

I am of the opinion that a fixed yoke is worth the time, effort and money. Being able to completely eliminate the rear axle in the event of a component failure is a nice option to have. Pull the driveshaft and axles (for a differential failure), tape up the hubs and drag in back to civilization in front wheel drive. It will probably never be needed, but having the option is worth it in my book.

 

[pulltilbroke]

Lance, a few companys do have clocking rings. I'm thinkin ORD, ORU maybe DIY4x. Were you planning on runnin a double cardin shaft or a single joint shaft? The reason I ask is when you clock the case up you'll increase your driveline angle(as I'm sure you know). A single joint shaft will vibrated a little at higher speeds but will take a little more angle.

I'm gonna be at a buddys place tomorow that has a intercooled p-pumped 4b in a 72 K20 I'll snap some pics of his setup for you. He used a Banks aftermarket cooler for a 1stgen Cummins which is about 1" thicker than stock and it seems to fit real good with plenty of room for a condensor.

Larry, I've noticed that some advanced adapers linkages and peripheral parts are rather flimsy. I have an AA NV4500 kit in my 90 and the mount had to be replaced that came with it. I have heard others have had issues too. For the money they want for there stuff you would think they'd give you some better quality stuff. When I swap a 4500 into my 93 I'm just gonna modify the factory bell and make my own shifter linkage.

As far as strength of the 241 it would handle anything you can throw at it(except for maybe a rock hit)with the 8.1. Remember Dodge used 241ld and 241hd in the 94-02 2ndgen Cummins trucks . While I have seen em break an output from time to time but only in High HP pullin trucks.
This truck runs a stock unmodified 241dld and is around 800hp and probly 1500ft lbs he's not nice to it either when he come out of the hole.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q_Gl...t=UUHF5zeQQaCO_3PrRtKh80Lg&lf=plcp&playnext=1

Hang around the pulling track long enough and you soon realize whats strong and whats not.

AH HA another Use for duct tape!!!


This is turning into a very good tech thread! Which is good cause I'm in the very early planning stages of a similar swap into a 67-72 truck or burb(Preferably a bus yellow 71 K25 GMC burb). How ever I will be using a 12v Cummins,NV4500 and a 205. I'm sure you guys probably noticed the spare 12v and pile of NV4500s in the 241 pics I posted. The 241 will soon be in my 90 and I'll use the 205 that comes out to complete the drive train. I just need to find a suitable truck to put all that junk in. I thought about crammin it all in my 60 but decided against that cause I don't like to cut up cool rare old Iron.

 

[pulltilbroke]

The only problem is the passenger drop Dodge 241s are a little harder to come by than a GM unit (what are the best sources/donors for these??).

87-93 Dodge rams 1/2-1 ton with out a Cummins

IMO they should have used em in the Cummins trucks as well.

 

[crawler#976]

http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/doubler.htm

It's only money Lance, and you already have one of the pieces.

I will 100% garrrrrrrrranty you'll like it.

 

[Larry]

Larry, I've noticed that some advanced adapers linkages and peripheral parts are rather flimsy. I have an AA NV4500 kit in my 90 and the mount had to be replaced that came with it. I have heard others have had issues too. For the money they want for there stuff you would think they'd give you some better quality stuff. When I swap a 4500 into my 93 I'm just gonna modify the factory bell and make my own shifter linkage.

That is for sure. Overall, I was pretty happy with the Advance Adapter kit but the shifter bracket was a total joke. I agree, use OEM pieces as much as you can....that is my plan on the Polar Bear Suburban. Makes for a cleaner swaperoo. Here is a thread from the NV4500 swap from last year.

 

[pulltilbroke]

Heres a few pics of the intercooler in that 72 K20.

 

[redthies]

That is one siiiick K20! Buddy just needs to get a new old rear bumper... Why did he go 4bt over 6? There is some nice motivation for Lance in those pics. Not a 'burb, but still great eye candy!

 

[pulltilbroke]

A year and a half ago this truck did have a 6 in it. It was a very healthy runner too. He pulled it to make it more streetable. Yeah he just screwed the bumper a few months ago.


BTW the LC is also 4bt powered.

Heres a few pics and a vid of when it had a 6bt,NV4500hd

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vh67kzME1jY&list=UUHF5zeQQaCO_3PrRtKh80Lg&index=136&feature=plcp



BTW I may have found my Burb project today. 68 GMC

 

[bfdiesel]

Unless you plan on towing a lot and building up a bunch of heat I don't think an inter cooler would be worth the time, maybe water injection would though.

The picture of the CDR is fine it had two lines one for each of the split intake manifold before the turbo got put on it.

You'll find out quick if the top of the injection pump is on right or not once you start it and then shut it off. If it does both then good to go.

The throttle cable should have the piece built into it you think you are missing. Pretty simple set up.

 

[redthies]

BTW the LC is also 4bt powered.

What about the orange tabby cat? Cummins powered too?

 

[pulltilbroke]

Actually thats about the only thing other than the tree spade that's not Cummins powered.

 

[1leglance]

You guys are too funny...
thanks for the pics to keep me motivated!

Ok snapped a few pics of my own tonight and more questions..
This my donor tcase out of the 87 burb, looks like a 208 for sure

I don't really like how close that drivers side exhaust pipe is to the oil filter and oil pan. I will be adding some sort of heat wrap or shield or something.
It looks to me like there are lines coming out of the engine that might go to an oil cooler? I want to do an oil cooler and remote filter no matter what.

Here is a close up of those lines, and I found where the turbo gets it's oil.

So if I keep this 208 or swap to a 241 I assume I will need to get this shifter linkage from my donor at least right?, That means I will have a different shift for the tcase in my floor than my current 205 correct?

Now you can see the bracket that looks like it is missing something in this pic? Thoughts?

Another odd thing...it seems my CDR has a pipe that just leads to nothing...metal to rubber to the inner fender by the rad. I thought it was supposed to tie in somewhere before or after the turbo to create that positive crankcase ventilation?

Again thanks for all the info guys, it is really helping.
At this point I should mention that my wife is the office manager of a shop that welds/machines diesel engine heads/blocks and can do it all short of complete assembly. I am really leaning towards pulling this engine, tearing it down, get it checked out and at least doing a ring/valve/gasket simple rebuild. Also I would get the injection pump looked over and new injectors. Gear driven timing set and few other goodies.

All thoughts welcome and keep the info coming.

 

[NOIBN]

The bracket missing something is a cruise control servo bracket. It is missing the servo. No big deal unless you want cruise control.

It has a factory oil cooler in the right tank of the radiator.

Keep the donor transfer case linkage. You may need it.

Dont worry about the CDR plumbing right now. I bet that it used to go to an air filter housing on the right side there. When a turbo is used, it goes pre-turbo.

 

[1leglance]

Cruise control...wow, don't know if I can handle something that fancy
For the sake of ease of install and old school joy (plus I am not a big user of cruise) I don't think I will replace it.

Thanks for the info on the CDR plumbing, I will have to see where I can tap into the preturbo pipes. Nice thing is I want to to a custom air filter box of some sort with a snorkle so should be pretty easy to tap in somewhere.

Good info on the in rad oil cooler...I am thinking here in Phx it would make sense to plug the rad holes and do an external oil cooler?? Also I used to have an Amsoil dual filter setup and really liked it. Would be nice to find a place to fit that on my 70 burb...of course funny thing is, even as big as an old burb is there is only so much room aval

I will add the transfer case stuff to my list of bits to pull.

 

[Rot Box]

Also I would get the injection pump looked over and new injectors. Gear driven timing set and few other goodies.

All thoughts welcome and keep the info coming.

You've probably heard enough of my preaching about ip/injectors by now, but I honestly feel IP timing and injector/IP health IS the difference between someone that loves their mechanical diesel or hates their mechanical diesel. Injectors should be purchased from a place that pop tests them before they send them out the door. Cheap parts store injectors are known to vary and often pop-off at different a psi from one another which in turn creates timing issues. This opens a big can of worms when it comes to everything from cold starting, idling, accelerating to working the motor hard. You probably wouldn't notice this on most of the direct injection diesels, but in the IDI world it makes all the difference especially when the acceptable injector pump timing variance is only +/- 2 degrees :Wow1:

Re-sealing the engine would be a great idea--don't forget the rear main seal and it would also be a great time for head gaskets and new bolts--or better yet ARP studs. The problem with these motors (and any old diesel for that matter) is there are SO many things you can do to upgrade them for longevity, but it gets to the point where it will nickel and dime you to death if you do everything LOL.

Can't wait to see it come together :wings: