84 CJ7 VERY capable $3850.oo!! Must Sell!

[Ford Prefect]

Hello all,

VERY SOLD!!!VERY SOLD!!!


1984 CJ-7. tan
I would really like to sell this. Give me an offer, and see what we can work out!

How about $4000.oo

Well... We had another child, and while the jeep works for us... well you know the drill...

I have mostly used this vehicle as a trail rig, and never gone for much of an overland trip on it, but it is very capable in all aspects. Already has a rack for your RTT (on the hard top only)


I put a video on youtube for you to see the jeep. It shows the jeep really well, and all the way around.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZFtrpoEyvgg"]YouTube- Moab Jeep CJ 7 Easter Jeep Safari[/ame]


Walk around the jeep:

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a6dCqkKHguQ"]YouTube - CJ 7 for sale[/ame]

Great off-road, still with super low COG. Entirely street legal.
It has 149,000 miles on the 4.2 I6, 5-speed, D-300 t-case
Three inches SUA lift
5 33x11.50 tires no plugs never trashed 95% tread left, no rock rash at all. Enough room to run 36's
Full Hard top, and full hard doors
Full Soft top with two-piece soft doors (Bestop)
Bikini top
Windjammer
Duster deck cover
The inside of the entire tub is coated in bed liner.
Poison Spyder Front Tube fenders, these things are strong and I love them, lots of room to stuff the tires. TJ Rear flares, again, lots of room to stuff the tires.

The Axles are
Dana 30 Front with 4.10 gears and a Detroit. Brand New Warn hubs (thanks to breaking one at EJS this year so replaced both). Axle Reconditioned in 2004
Dana 44 rear 4.10 gears ARB with ARB compressor, reconditioned in 2004

Engine is a out of an 89 yj with 59K miles.

Traditional rust on the windshield, but not horrible. Some rust on the tub under the doors. I am willing to facilitate shipping on your dime.

This is a very good, reliable, strong running jeep. I need a jeep that is Automatic so my wife can drive it. Would consider a trade for a TJ with automatic transmission. I have well over $10,000 invested in it (not including labor). I'll take a hit selling this great jeep, but I need it gone so I can get something my wife can drive, please.

Thanks. I would be happy to send more, and / or specific photo's to anyone who is seriously interested.

Located in Provo Utah. Please CALL me (801) 623-6013 I AM willing to transport to Colorado Springs/Denver/ along the I-70, if you pay for the jeep first, I will transport for free. I can help with/facilitate shipping to anyplace you like.

SOME of these images are older, and were taken prior to the fenders and flares being put on.

Thanks for looking!

 

[Ford Prefect]

I should clarify, this thing has not yet been used for epedition purposes, but I think it would have decent overland possibilities if you wanted to use an AT with it, or even an RTT (which it has a rack already set up for that).

It would also make a nice vehicle to pull behind your campervan/expedition camper. I can show you everything it would take to be able to tow this thing (it is actually very easy to set up).

Obviously this is a very simple vehicle, mechanically speaking, everything on it can be done with simple hand tools, which makes maintaining it super easy.

Brian

 

[BigJimCruising]

It would also make a nice vehicle to pull behind your campervan/expedition camper. I can show you everything it would take to be able to tow this thing (it is actually very easy to set up).
Brian

You caught my attention with this line. Can you tell me what is involved in towing this Jeep? Are extra parts or addons other then a tow bar needed? Also could you add a pic of the vehicle just sitting on the ground?

(I really shouldn't be doing this but I can't help myself!)

Thanks, Jim.

 

[Ford Prefect]

Extra parts. The tow bar, and the magnetic lights; about $145 and up for the bar and about $25 and up for the lights. (I have seen the bar as low as $110, but you have to shop around)

It is really easy actually. The Transfer case is NOT set up for flat tow, but it is one of the strongest transfer cases ever put on a jeep. (The D-300) so all you have to do is go out and buy a hitch (if you want to flat tow) for about $145.00 and then bolt it on. From that point you pull the drive shafts (four bolts each.) and plug in your lights. (personally if I were to flat tow this I would get a set of magnetic lights from walmart so I could do it without working the jeep's wiring) It is possible, however, to install a wiring harness to plug the jeeps lights into the tow vehicle.

Another thing that some people do (and I believe to be a good idea) is to take a key and put it in the jeep in the run position, this allows for free movement of the wheel.

Like I say, it is all very simple. With the metal front bumper it is easy to set up the tow bar, it just bolts right in. Same with the rear bumper, metal, so easy to put the lights on.

Personally when I tow the vehicle I have always taken the top off and folded the windshield down. You can't even tell it is back there.

I should also tell you that Currie (I believe) makes a set of shakes that are made to receive a tow bar. IE if you want to pull it with a shorter vehicle then you can install these shackles and lower the tow bar thus making it parallel to the ground when towing.

I will go and see if I can get a photo or two from the other computer and put them on here for you.

Brian

 

[korisu56]

You can put the D300 in neutral and flat tow with it. I tow my CJ7 on a dolly with no issues. I just throw the twin sticks in neutral and drive on.

 

[BigJimCruising]

Thanks for all the info!

Thinking.

Hurts.

 

[Ford Prefect]

You can put the D300 in neutral and flat tow with it. I tow my CJ7 on a dolly with no issues. I just throw the twin sticks in neutral and drive on.

Yes, this is possible, HOWEVER


The big concern, and perhaps you have addressed this manually, is that there are no flaps to turn the oil in the D-300. Ergo when the engine is not running the oil does not circulate. IF you weld in some flaps into the d-300 then you can flat tow in neutral, however if you do not it can seriously damage the t-case. I HAVE heard of several people who have flat towed just like you are saying and had no problems what so ever, but I have also heard of people to trashed the t-case because of flat towing.

Even with the thing in neutral the rear axle shaft is still turning. Now with the front set for 2WD then pull the rear shaft, nothing moves inside the t-case, if the front is in 4x4 (IE the hubs are locked) or the rear shaft is in place, then the case will still have internal parts moving without being lubricated.

As for photos, I am looking for those right now...

 

[Ford Prefect]

More photos as per request. Also, if you need me to I can run out there and snap a few with the hard top on (now that it is on for the winter) just let me know.

(if that last one is too small let me know, and I can re-size it to a larger photo.)

 

[richjeeps]

Flat towing a D300 CJ

I have onwed 3 CJ's since 1981....my current one sine 86. I flat tow all the time. Here's the driver's manual answer....

-leave front hubs unlocked to freewheel (2wd)
-transmission in Neutral
-put D300 in 2H
- stop every 500 miles and drive the Jeep for 10 minutes

The idea is to get the D300 gears to move oil around. the rear output bearings don't get oil unless the gears turn (flaps someone mentioned earlier).
But it's a pain to stop every 500 miles, disconnect from tow vehicle and drive it around.

So hears another option which I do.

- disconnect the battery (prevents anyone from accidently starting it)
- put key in ignition and turn to "on" position (unlocks steering wheel)
- release parking brake (many people forget this part)
-unlock front hubs (2wd)
-tranmission in highest gear
-D300 in neutral
- REMOVE REAR DRIVESHAFT!!!! (you probably need a set of Torx sockets. you can get a good set from Sears or a less expensive set from AutoZone or other car parts place)

The idea is to keep D300 from moving at all, while towing. Leaving the tranny in gear holds everthing in place with mechanical friction. If you need to drive the Jeep you disconnect from tow vehicle, lock front hubs, put D300 in 4H and drive around town (you will have front wheel drive).

Some people disconnect the rear driveshaft at the axle end and suspend the driveshaft up and out of the way. but I have seen this fail, driveshaft hits the spinning yoke at 60MPH then drags on the highway.....you don't want to see the results

Hope this helps. :ylsmoke:

Yes, this is possible, HOWEVER


The big concern, and perhaps you have addressed this manually, is that there are no flaps to turn the oil in the D-300. Ergo when the engine is not running the oil does not circulate. IF you weld in some flaps into the d-300 then you can flat tow in neutral, however if you do not it can seriously damage the t-case. I HAVE heard of several people who have flat towed just like you are saying and had no problems what so ever, but I have also heard of people to trashed the t-case because of flat towing.

Even with the thing in neutral the rear axle shaft is still turning. Now with the front set for 2WD then pull the rear shaft, nothing moves inside the t-case, if the front is in 4x4 (IE the hubs are locked) or the rear shaft is in place, then the case will still have internal parts moving without being lubricated.

As for photos, I am looking for those right now...

 

[Ford Prefect]

Thanks Richjeeps, that is great. Nice to get the owners manual quotations.

I agree, taking out the shaft is the best way to go. You only have to take off four screws and the thing comes off the axle, then just slide the thing out.

I had not thought about putting the tranny in gear, sounds like a good idea...thanks.

Brian

 

[BigJimCruising]

Thanks for all the ideas and input everyone! Question: could you install locking hubs in the rear like those used in the front?

 

[Ford Prefect]

Big Jim,

OH YES! I have seen it done. I can not tell you much about how to do it, but I know it is do-able. Further it is a D-44, so finding hubs should not be that hard. (fairly common axle and all)

I expect if you look on Jeepforum.com and pirate4x4.com a fast search will bring up many pages on how to do the conversion.

The other thing that I can not tell you is how much it would cost or what parts would be involved.

 

[Ford Prefect]

This is an excellent page on the merrits of the conversion, and pro's and con's. Hope that helps you decide. Personally I think it sounds worth it just to take the rear shaft out, this mod (on the rear) tends to only be on the rather hard core rigs, but I can see as how it might be nice for you in a tow.

http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/hubconv/hub-7.htm

Brian

 

[Capt Eddie]

Are you coming to the Overland expo in April? For a sale?? PM for details.

 

[Ford Prefect]

PM Sent.
Not planning on it, but I can if you are buying it.