8LIFGR8's LX470

[99Discovery]

Hey guys!

After a long journey of trying to find a Cruiser, I finally found an '03 LX470 single owner, with full records, that I was willing to part with an absurd amount of money (dang Utah "Toyota Tax") for a 15 year old car. After less than 72 hours of ownership, we took it off road in south western Utah (P-rated tires, side steps and all) since the Discovery was leaking at the T-case and the Range Rover had a failed rear height sensor. (Surprised?) The Cruiser performed well, but I'm not going to lie that I can't wait to ditch the tires and bumpers and get some proper armor and a lift.

Anyway, there are no cool photos of an awesome build yet, since she's still stock, but this where I'm going to slowly update photos and videos of my progress.

And to spur some friendly discussion, which lift should I be looking at? I'm eyeing the ARB (Old Man Emu is the defacto standard for overland build Rovers), but I've heard a lot of good about the Icon (no doubt being featured on Expedition Overland helps). Which is preferable for the 100 series?

 

[hayde89]

Is your AHC functioning? I would stick with that till it doesn't work. It is the most versatile suspension out there for the 100 series. But I am currently running OME after a couple pieces of the AHC gave out. If I could have kept the AHC system healthy I would have that's the bad part of being the 3rd owner. Icon is good as well though. The most popular suspension right now on mud is Tough Dog. Give them a look. But really if you want a lift crank the torsion bars, adjust the sensors and just enjoy the AHC while you can.

 

[99Discovery]

Yeah, my AHC is functioning, but coming from a cross-linked air of a Range Rover, I gotta admit...I'm not as impressed with the performance. That said, a lower pressure hydraulic system is going to be more reliable than air, so I guess it's a trade off.

What isn't functioning is the brakes. I've got quite the thread on the IH8mud's forum about the system screaming at me and the expense of such a repair. Ugh. Over $1k for used parts, $2500-3k for new. Welcome to Toyota ownership. .

I'm still looking forward to the build, but I'll probably be stuck with AHC for default since all of my lift $$ is going to the Master Cylinder!

And on top of that, I need to make sure I save some time to crawl under with a wire wheel and clean up some surface rust and coat it before winter sets in.

Despite the hiccups, I'm excited to join the Land Cruiser community and I've got a lot of plans for this rig. It may even inspire me to sell my trusty Discovery 2 for "mod" money... .

 

[hayde89]

Ouch yeah that is not fun. You are one of very few that I have heard of that happening. But if you want more lift or need more advice check out the sensor lift pages on ih8mud that is going to be your ultimate resource. I would also do some master cylinder digging over there. I know there are some cheaper ways to get the parts. Yeah you have some base lining to do but it's still a hell of a truck trust me. I have taken mine to some hairy places without issue. If you have any questions I would be happy to answer any or help you out.

 

[Woofwagon]

I bought a '99 LX470 back in August. Not the best fuel mileage, but it sure is capable off road in its stock condition. I've found the the AHC to be really handy and there is a vid on youtube on how to flush that system with new fluid. The whole process takes maybe an hour tops. I am in the search for an tire carrier bumper that doesn't cost a mint, ditto for a winch bumper.

 

[ChuckB]

Welcome! I’m still running the AHC so can’t help in that department. Definitely get rid of the running boards ASAP!!


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[99Discovery]

A little update:

I did get the master cylinder repaired. I bought a kit off of a Mudder and then destroyed my cylinder when trying to remove the existing motor...the terminals were so corroded I destroyed the board getting them off. So I had to turn to ebay and buy another unit with a replaced motor. It seems to be working fine, but the whole repair was well over $1k.....and at the end of the day I have a used cylinder that I'm not sure when it is going to crap out. It seems that half of the rigs mysteriously have corroded terminals. I'm wondering if it is from the dealer detailing the engine bay every time you get an oil change? I don't know how else moisture gets up in there...

I did film the repair, so this winter I'll edit it and post it up to help others. From the Mud forums it seems to hit about 20% of forum member's rides, typically 150k miles and up.

My other task this winter is going to be scraping the surface rust on the frame and retreating it (at least I hope it's surface rust). It doesn't look THAT bad, but that's what they all say. It was a cali/western car, so either it was driven in the beach or Toyota's coatings suck because it does have a bit more red underneath than I'm used to from Western vehicles (but it looks waaay better than many Mudder's frames when I was researching). So maybe I'm just holding Toyota Frames to Land Rover and Jeep standards? .

That and my chrome rims are tossing weights. The guy at the balance shop said they are pitting a bit (makes me think it was a beach car) and makes it tough for the weights to stick. So I'll probably be in the market for rims when I do the lift/tires...


I was going to research keeping the AHC, but how in the world can you keep it and
1) remove the steps....I've nearly rounded one bolt already trying to get between the motor and the bolt.
2) find AHC compatible rock sliders. It seems that the motors are in the way of most of the aftermarket offerings.

So even though I might wish to keep AHC, I don't see how that's possible and equip a decent slider at the same time.

 

[99Discovery]

And since this is a build thread and my last post is a bit more negative than I'd like, here's a positive one:

Less than 72 hours after owning her we were wheeling her in Southern Utah. A 4 and 2 rated trail. I haven't done the video of the 4 yet (the vehicle did well, despite the steps), but I've posted the trip report in the Adventure report forum, but here's a quick link here.

Not bad for stocker on street tires. It's going to be a fun platform to build.

 

[ChuckB]

I have the Slee Step-sliders which are AHC compatible.

http://www.sleeoffroad.com/products/UZJ_sliders_main.htm




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[hayde89]

A little update:

I did get the master cylinder repaired. I bought a kit off of a Mudder and then destroyed my cylinder when trying to remove the existing motor...the terminals were so corroded I destroyed the board getting them off. So I had to turn to ebay and buy another unit with a replaced motor. It seems to be working fine, but the whole repair was well over $1k.....and at the end of the day I have a used cylinder that I'm not sure when it is going to crap out. It seems that half of the rigs mysteriously have corroded terminals. I'm wondering if it is from the dealer detailing the engine bay every time you get an oil change? I don't know how else moisture gets up in there...

I did film the repair, so this winter I'll edit it and post it up to help others. From the Mud forums it seems to hit about 20% of forum member's rides, typically 150k miles and up.

My other task this winter is going to be scraping the surface rust on the frame and retreating it (at least I hope it's surface rust). It doesn't look THAT bad, but that's what they all say. It was a cali/western car, so either it was driven in the beach or Toyota's coatings suck because it does have a bit more red underneath than I'm used to from Western vehicles (but it looks waaay better than many Mudder's frames when I was researching). So maybe I'm just holding Toyota Frames to Land Rover and Jeep standards? .

That and my chrome rims are tossing weights. The guy at the balance shop said they are pitting a bit (makes me think it was a beach car) and makes it tough for the weights to stick. So I'll probably be in the market for rims when I do the lift/tires...


I was going to research keeping the AHC, but how in the world can you keep it and
1) remove the steps....I've nearly rounded one bolt already trying to get between the motor and the bolt.
2) find AHC compatible rock sliders. It seems that the motors are in the way of most of the aftermarket offerings.

So even though I might wish to keep AHC, I don't see how that's possible and equip a decent slider at the same time.

I had sliders with my AHC as well. Hit up MetalTech4x4 as well.

 

[nitroracing]

I have the same exact car and year.

OME Med 1.5" full kit from Slee
ARB rear diff
Metal Tech rear links
Replaced ML rear sub with aftermarket amp and JL box
Replaced master cylinder as it crapped out around 150,000 miles out of nowhere at dealer for $3,000 ouch!

Currently at 200,000 miles and running stronger than ever!

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[99Discovery]

Thanks guys, I'll look into them