'97 Dodge Ram 2500, 4x4 Cummins Powered

[Mighty Dodge Ram]

How are your control arm bushings holding up? My understanding is that the 2500s are the same/similar to my 1500s. Mine are shot with almost 220k miles and they want a bundle to replace them...mostly labor. I'm about to pull the trigger on a set of DT Profab arms, steering stabilizer, trackbar, and Bilstein 5100s he offers in a package. Check out the site, I met him last year and he seems very knowledgeable/friendly. I'm watching your build with great interest. :sombrero:

 

[ExpoMike]

Hi Richard, well, with 143K miles, they are not doing too bad. Nothing that needs to be replaced immediately but definitely on the list. Still planning out my next move. I have looked at the DT Profab arms but they have the same issue that most of the lower priced arms have, they are using Poly bushings. Poly bushings are designed not to deflect. This will greatly reduce your front articulation because the arms will be binding as the axle tries to rotate left and right. In up and down only motion, they are fine but not rotational. This is why companies like Carli and Thuren are using "Johnny Joint". This allows the joint to rotate as the axle twists. This is also why the factory arms are not boxed but a U channel. With the stock rubber bushing, you will get some deflection as they twist. When you max that out, the arms start to twist. This is why they are open on the bottom. If you box in the stock arms, you will end up binding then and can either tear the mounts or tweak the arms.

I wish JKS make arms for the Ram. I have them on my Cherokee and LOVE them. They are a two piece arm, which allows you to adjust the length but they also allow the arm to twist as the axle articulates. This allows them to use stock bushings to keep the ride quality but still have all the strength and flex of other type joints, without the maintenance of other joints.

I am thinking of building my own or buying Carli arms. I will never use arms that have Poly bushing, at least in an offroad vehicle.

 

[Mighty Dodge Ram]

Just back in town...thanks for the response. I thought that the DTs had serviceable joints...Johnny or other? I'm probably reading the info incorrectly. I don't plan on using the truck for "serious" offroading...rock crawling, etc. Unfortunately, price point is an issue so Carli/Kore/Thuren are probably out. BDS has some arms but again, using the poly bushings.

Looking forward to your progress. :sombrero:

 

[ExpoMike]

Nope, DT Profab arms are using standard poly bushings. It would be so easy for them to put a Johnny Joint type mount in, instead but I figure it's cost that keeps them from doing it. For me, it's hard to take any company serious when they really don't understand suspension dynamics.

 

[Mighty Dodge Ram]

You are correct! :bowdown: I think I've learned more about control arms in your thread than at any of the sites/stores I've visited. I checked out the JKS arms...I see what you mean, now. Whatever I end up doing I'll need to do it soon...the truck wanders all over the place. How do you like ORW for installs?

What's up next on your build? Anxious to see...:lurk:

 

[ExpoMike]

What's next... hummm... Well, I went out to National Spring today and they are building me a custom set of springs. 1" higher in the front, 2" in the rear, from it's current ride hight. Rear springs will be built to remove the hugh lift block setup that Dodge uses. That should give me better flex and eliminate any wheel hope problems. Those should be ready in a few weeks.

I also have a set of gauges I had made from Speedhut. They custom build these per customer order so you can change dial color, pointer, any graphic, etc. Very nice (not cheap though). I got a EGT, boost and tran temp gauges. Still figuring out how/where I want to put them.

I am working on a deal to possibly pick up a aluminum flat bed. The one thing I seem to be lacking is storage. I want to do a flat bed and run storage boxes on the side, where the wasted space of the bedsides are currently. We'll if that pans out but that is the ultimate goal.

I have a ton of other cool ideas rattling around in my head. Need to get some other projects taken care of so I can get more time to do some work on this rig.

Glad the info on arms was helpful.

 

[Herbie]

I am working on a deal to possibly pick up a aluminum flat bed. The one thing I seem to be lacking is storage. I want to do a flat bed and run storage boxes on the side, where the wasted space of the bedsides are currently. We'll if that pans out but that is the ultimate goal.

Sounds awesome Mike, can't wait to see what you come up with!

 

[stewie]

With the factory blocks the bump stop for the rear is part of the block. Will you be changing the bump stop location with the new National Spring?

I want to get rid the factory lift blocks on my V10 2500 but was un-sure how to handle the stops. When I get into any sand the wheel hop is brutal.

Stewie

 

[ExpoMike]

Yes, the stock bumps will be removed and I will use something different. I have a couple ideas but not completely committed on my plan yet.

 

[blue dog]

My truck has a deaver spring pack in the rear, when replacing everything, i decided to add a pair of 2" fox bumps in the rear, it was easy and effective. Here you go.

http://s1199.photobucket.com/albums/aa471/leobluedog/?action=view&current=IMG_0883.jpg

http://s1199.photobucket.com/albums/aa471/leobluedog/?action=view&current=IMG_0700.jpg

 

[ExpoMike]

Cool setup. I was thinking along that lines but was thinking of trying the new Daystar Stinger bump stops as a lower cost alternative.

Thanks for the pics, that helps.

 

[blue dog]

You can mount the bump stop of your choice on the frame directly above the axle tube, build a strike pad off of the axle tube, fur it up as necessary and do the same by furring the bump stop down. When you are at national having your springs done, cycle the suspension at that time so you know what level to mount everything.
Hope this helps.

 

[blue dog]

i just read threw this entire thread and wanted to bring up a few points. First, when the Kdp was discussed, you should know that this is a common problem with these trucks, basically, take it serious, if it fails, it has the potential to cause more harm. Now, as far as the control arm bushings and joints are concerned i will ad my 2 cents. What i have found is that what i prefer is to have a johnny joint or mono ball setup on the axle side of the control arms, this is where the articulation is most necessary, with that being said on the frame side of the control arms you will experience the best ride in both worlds with a harder bushing sleeved for the bolt. Now, you will need to replace the bushing in time, { these trucks have a 4000 lb dead weight in the front } But, you will need to rebuild the mono balls or johnny joints just as frequently as replacing the bushings. I have used every scenario with hard use in the deserts of baja on these trucks and this has been my experience. I have new evolution mono balls coming for one side of a new set of control arms and a bushing that borders on the hardness of delrin for the top side of the arms, we will see how they last.

 

[ExpoMike]

Well, started doing the KDP project. Outside of getting the fan assembly out, it's been going fairly well. Should rap things up tomorrow. Think this will also fix the oil leak problem based on all dirt caked oil build up.

 

[ExpoMike]

Okay, finished up the KDP repair. Overall it went well but took a little longer than I had hoped. Definitely glad I did it as the dowel pin was sticking out a little past the case. Got it tapped back in and now have a tab to hold it from working loose again. Hopefully with the new crank seal and cover resealed, my oil dripping issues will be taken care of as well. Also got the pass. side battery fender area cleaned up and painted from a previous battery leakage. Also replaced the hold down hardware on that side so now I don't have to worry about the battery bouncing out.

Productive weekend but tired...