97 E350 Crestline Ambo Build/Mod
- Thread starter Bikersmurf
- Start date
Bikersmurf
Expedition Leader
Thanks... it's pretty surreal.
I’m trying to focus on those images from my trip… rather than the afternoon, which I don’t have pictures of. These photos were as I shot them, in a compressed format, and then downsized. I still have the Raw images that are roughly 30 mb each and have even more detail and dynamic range.
Last edited:
Bikersmurf
Expedition Leader
Life has been stupid busy and crazy, the ambo has been reliable as they should be.
Next up will be brakes. I'd like to upgrade to newer larger front discs as the front brakes aren't as heavy duty as I'd like. Over time the rear brake adjusters haven't been keeping up, and it wasn't till I was in Vancouver on the highway that it dawned on me that the brake bias was off. I've adjusted them now, but not before the front rotors have gotten hot enough to shed some of their paint. Everything is good now, but both the pads and shoes will need to be done before too long.
I'm used to the brakes on my 40 series that are easily capable to stopping 8000 lbs. but only have 5000 lbs. to stop... With the ambo, the brakes are adequate to stop it's 10,000 lbs. but certainly not want to try and stop 16,000 lbs. with them. I'd like to upgrade to brakes from a newer 2wd E350 that has larger rotors.
It looks like the 2009 are 13.5" and thicker. I just need to confirm if both are 8 x 6.5". Also that they'll fit inside my 16" steel dually rims.
Hopefully I'll find someone local who is converting to 4wd will have some 2009 brake & suspension parts to get rid of. I have a hard time justifying upgrading the entire front suspension and brakes when the brakes I have do work.
Next up will be brakes. I'd like to upgrade to newer larger front discs as the front brakes aren't as heavy duty as I'd like. Over time the rear brake adjusters haven't been keeping up, and it wasn't till I was in Vancouver on the highway that it dawned on me that the brake bias was off. I've adjusted them now, but not before the front rotors have gotten hot enough to shed some of their paint. Everything is good now, but both the pads and shoes will need to be done before too long.
I'm used to the brakes on my 40 series that are easily capable to stopping 8000 lbs. but only have 5000 lbs. to stop... With the ambo, the brakes are adequate to stop it's 10,000 lbs. but certainly not want to try and stop 16,000 lbs. with them. I'd like to upgrade to brakes from a newer 2wd E350 that has larger rotors.
It looks like the 2009 are 13.5" and thicker. I just need to confirm if both are 8 x 6.5". Also that they'll fit inside my 16" steel dually rims.
Hopefully I'll find someone local who is converting to 4wd will have some 2009 brake & suspension parts to get rid of. I have a hard time justifying upgrading the entire front suspension and brakes when the brakes I have do work.
Bikersmurf
Expedition Leader
Based on what I found on Rock Auto they are larger than my 1997 (actually off a 2001) discs. I don’t know how they compare to brakes on a solid. They are 1/2” larger making them 1/4” closer to the rim.
I’d sure like to know if the hub bearings are the same diameter and if newer callipers newer. More research time.
Bikersmurf
Expedition Leader
In the meantime, the coupler for the 17” long intermediate e-brake cable broke when I pushed on the pedal to release it. This is twice in the last few years the cable has broken when the pedal was pushed… not loving that.
Glad it wasn’t in an emergency.
Glad it wasn’t in an emergency.
iggi
Ian
According to the AutoZone catalog there's quite the difference in size.
The bearing race diameter looks the same though.
Bummer on the e brake cable, good reminder to service mine.
The bearing race diameter looks the same though.
Bummer on the e brake cable, good reminder to service mine.
Bikersmurf
Expedition Leader
I’ll have to look into the front discs more. Although an extra half inch diameter does seem like that much, combined with the extra thickness, it should help reduce the likelihood of cooking the front rotors.
When I got the rig there was evidence that the callipers had got hot enough to turn the pistons blue. The rotors were quite badly checked (small cracks covering the surface). I replaced all those components with recently replaced ones from a wrecked Ambulance. I’ve got them somewhat hot since replacing them, but not like the old ones.
For what they are worth, I wish I’d replaced all of the E-brake cables when the end came off the one going to the brake to the brake pedal. The intermediate cable looked fine, but it broke when I pressed the pedal to release it. The jobbers couldn’t find a replacement cable anywhere in North America when I called on a Sunday. Rock Auto had them for $5-7 plus $25 shipping. Amazon had a Doirman replacement that to a friends house, in Vancouver, the next day. His place was a 10 minute drive from where we are staying.
Fortunately I had sockets and an impact with me and I was able to quickly fix it while parked in a busy parking lot. No signs were posted saying no repairs… but I’m sure the security would frown upon it. Still I felt it was better to do it in the parking lot than at the side of a busy road (especially given that it’s on the driver’s side).
Bikersmurf
Expedition Leader
Based on online searches it appears the front dually spindles are the same 94-2010. Therefore, In theory, one could swap in 2008 larger and thicker rotors along with the matching 2008 calipers and pads.
Anyone ever upgraded ‘01 front dually brakes using “08 brake components?
Anyone ever upgraded ‘01 front dually brakes using “08 brake components?
Bikersmurf
Expedition Leader
After much searching for a smaller package I broke down and bought 100.
Before.
After.
When I bought the rig it was missing one flag. Not a big deal, but after 8+ years a couple more broke and I was down 3. My inner OCD was bothered by this.
Now some of you would say just junk them. However, on more that one occasion I’ve had these lug nuts come loose…. What???
Despite torquing them to 150 ft/lbs and having clean and dry threads.
The first couple times were due to a cracked brake dram. When forcefully applied the brakes would come on like you’d hit the end of an insanely strong chain. They hammered hard enough to jam them loose within a few miles driving.
It’s not fun to find, but better than the alternative of loosing a wheel. The added bonus is they are designed to melt at 100*
Before.
After.
When I bought the rig it was missing one flag. Not a big deal, but after 8+ years a couple more broke and I was down 3. My inner OCD was bothered by this.
Now some of you would say just junk them. However, on more that one occasion I’ve had these lug nuts come loose…. What???
Despite torquing them to 150 ft/lbs and having clean and dry threads.
The first couple times were due to a cracked brake dram. When forcefully applied the brakes would come on like you’d hit the end of an insanely strong chain. They hammered hard enough to jam them loose within a few miles driving.
It’s not fun to find, but better than the alternative of loosing a wheel. The added bonus is they are designed to melt at 100*
Bikersmurf
Expedition Leader
I suspect I need to change the fuel filter again… I don’t put a ton of miles on it, but it has probably been 7+ years since I last changed it. If it were a pickup truck it’d be easy, but it’s not. It’s starting to feel less responsive when accelerating up hills at highway speeds. After changing the fuel filter the last time ((and cleaning the entire fuel bowl) it made a noticeable difference. I think it’s overdue and suspect changing it will help. I’m not ready to mess with adding another filter and deleting the OEM one… as much as it would make life easier in the end.
Bikersmurf
Expedition Leader
Never worked on a 6.0, but the 7.3 has one fuel filter on the top of the engine in the middle of the V. Great spot for a truck… the worst imaginable spot for a van. It takes 30 minutes to remove all the stuff in the way of even reaching it. Whoever decided to put it there should be fired.
I’ve considered filling the housing with marbles and using an inline filter closer to the tank, but haven’t yet. It’s far down the list, I I only think about it when it is time to change the filter… and then decide I’ll do it next time… which will probably be never
iggi
Ian
Similar with the 6.0, the engine filter is super easy to change on the pickups and about 30 minutes of moving crap to access it in the vans. The only upside is that there is a large pre-filter so the smaller one on the engine doesn't get the full load of sediment and stuff.
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