'99 Montero - Clunk noise when turning

[nckwltn]

So for the last month or so, I've been getting this clunk noise when I turn and accelerate and sometimes decelerate. I can't make the sound happen on command, but I can put the vehicle into situations where it is likely to happen. But if I were to turn left, and give is some gas (parking lot speeds), I would probably hear it... and then if I were to let off the gas and idle, I might hear it again.

I started to hear it as I was backing out of the driveway. As I backup, I have to crank the wheel to the left to avoid something behind me. I can also get it to happen in my parking garage at work (again turning left), but while going forward. These are really slow speeds (less than 5 mph). I don't hear the noise when I'm going over bumps, and it sounds like it is coming from the front passenger side.


My steering was kind of loose so I replaced the idler and pitman arms, that helped the steering, but not the noise. I've got records from the previous owner showing that tie rod ends on both sides have been replaced about 4 years and 40k miles ago. I'm pretty sure I remember seeing documentation on the ball joints being replaced as well.

I've had the front wheels off the ground in my garage, and I did some some side to side slop (less now with idler and pitman replaced), but NO slop with my hands at 12 & 6 on the tire.


I'm tempted to give tie rod ends a go, because there is still a little slop in the steering, but don't want to just start throwing parts at it if I don't need to.

Any ideas, or anything I can test to determine if something else is worn out?

 

[nckwltn]

Did some test driving tonight... I can finally reproduce the sound. going down hill (is easiest) where I'm riding the brake, if I jerk the steering wheel to the left or right, I hear the knocking/clunking.... It seems to be coming equally from both sides.

I'm just cresting 127k miles...


any ideas?

 

[GFO]

I have that same intermediate left side 'clunk' sound. From what I've read, it could be one (or both) of the torsion bars tapping against the frame rails, as there was a bulletin on it.

My monty's going in the shop tomorrow for an oil and brake service, hopefully my mechanic can figure the source of the noise when the car is up.

 

[nckwltn]

I have that same intermediate left side 'clunk' sound. From what I've read, it could be one (or both) of the torsion bars tapping against the frame rails, as there was a bulletin on it.

VERY interesting!

 

[off-roader]

Take it to a decent mechanic or alignment shop who can look at the parts and move the tires back and forth to learn what's clunking.

In my case, I had a similar situation. I found that some of the parts were not being lubed properly by the previous owner (13 zirk fittings underneath) so some parts were running w/ minimal lube and making noises. After lubing it properly, the noise went away.

Alternatively it could also be your antisway bar bushing needs to be replaced as the OEM rubber units wear out after a decade or more of use. I'd replace with new OEM units instead of fancy aftermarket units since the OEM units are inexpensive and are designed to work for a really long, long time.

 

[SoCalMonty]

I have a very similar issue.

Swaybars have been deleted, torsion bars are new (Ironman), and everything is lubricated properly.

Typically happens when reversing and turning at the same time. I haven't spent much time looking into it, but I poked around a little once and didn't notice anything. Neither did my alignment guy.

 

[off-roader]

Maybe a worn ball joint Sean? I don't recall if you have but if not, check with the guys on 4x4wire.

 

[takesiteasy]

Sorry i can't help you with your problem but this reminds of the time a friend had a similar issue- clunking sounds when he went around corners. Checked everything and couldn't figure it out. Took his car into the shop and described the problem and left it there. When he went back to pick it up, they told him they had fixed it. He asked what they did and they said "took the bricks out of the trunk." Classic.

 

[nckwltn]

I think I may have found a bit more.


As you can see from the video, there is a lot of slop before the drivers wheel grabs. I can still spin the hub once it hits its resistance point, but it doesn't provide any resistance between two points. Also, the spline that causes the 4wd to power the wheel also has some slop in it as well. Furthermore, where the axle connects into the front diff, I can grab that outer housing hold it in place, and get 1/2" or 3/4" rotation, while the axel on the side of the diff is not moving at all.

The passenger side doesn't seem to have this same amount of slop.

I also did notice some play on the drivers side when grabbing the wheel at 12 & 6... but the movement is REALLY minor, and it feels like just the brake rotor is moving. I can't see the ball joints moving. (wheel bearings??)


Time to dig into the FSM and see how all this stuff connects together.

--EDIT--

One more thing, when I was letting the Montero down off the jack, I let it down REALLY slowly. I could hear the knocking sound happening, and it felt like it was coming from the lower control arms where they connect to the frame.... are there some zerks there?

 

[off-roader]

I think I may have found a bit more.


As you can see from the video, there is a lot of slop before the drivers wheel grabs. I can still spin the hub once it hits its resistance point, but it doesn't provide any resistance between two points. Also, the spline that causes the 4wd to power the wheel also has some slop in it as well. Furthermore, where the axle connects into the front diff, I can grab that outer housing hold it in place, and get 1/2" or 3/4" rotation, while the axel on the side of the diff is not moving at all.

The passenger side doesn't seem to have this same amount of slop.

I also did notice some play on the drivers side when grabbing the wheel at 12 & 6... but the movement is REALLY minor, and it feels like just the brake rotor is moving. I can't see the ball joints moving. (wheel bearings??)


Time to dig into the FSM and see how all this stuff connects together.

--EDIT--

One more thing, when I was letting the Montero down off the jack, I let it down REALLY slowly. I could hear the knocking sound happening, and it felt like it was coming from the lower control arms where they connect to the frame.... are there some zerks there?

The FSM has a diagram of all your zirks. If you don't do your own oil changes, make copies of that page and hand it to the tech luring your rig.

 

[nckwltn]

....If you don't do your own oil changes...

you can have someone else change your oil? :Wow1:


I'll hafta get my zerk on this weekend.

 

[SoCalMonty]

If it's a hefty thunk like mine, grease won't fix the problem...it might muffle the sound, but the sound isn't the cause...it's a symptom. Slop somewhere is the cause. Let us know if you find anything else...I'll try to get under mine tomorrow and look around too.

 

[molenz]

I think I may have found a bit more.


As you can see from the video, there is a lot of slop before the drivers wheel grabs. I can still spin the hub once it hits its resistance point, but it doesn't provide any resistance between two points. Also, the spline that causes the 4wd to power the wheel also has some slop in it as well. Furthermore, where the axle connects into the front diff, I can grab that outer housing hold it in place, and get 1/2" or 3/4" rotation, while the axel on the side of the diff is not moving at all.

The passenger side doesn't seem to have this same amount of slop.

I also did notice some play on the drivers side when grabbing the wheel at 12 & 6... but the movement is REALLY minor, and it feels like just the brake rotor is moving. I can't see the ball joints moving. (wheel bearings??)


Time to dig into the FSM and see how all this stuff connects together.

--EDIT--

One more thing, when I was letting the Montero down off the jack, I let it down REALLY slowly. I could hear the knocking sound happening, and it felt like it was coming from the lower control arms where they connect to the frame.... are there some zerks there?

You should absolutely not have that much freeplay in the hub, when you spin the hub the axle will also turn as it is splined to the hub.

Remove the dustcap and you will be able to see the end of the CV joint, also remove the circlip and spacer washer (if it's there), then you can remove the 6 bolts holding on the flange.

Take a close look at the splines on the flange and on the end of the CV joint, one or both will be worn.

 

[nckwltn]

You should absolutely not have that much freeplay in the hub, when you spin the hub the axle will also turn as it is splined to the hub.

Remove the dustcap and you will be able to see the end of the CV joint, also remove the circlip and spacer washer (if it's there), then you can remove the 6 bolts holding on the flange.

Take a close look at the splines on the flange and on the end of the CV joint, one or both will be worn.

Will do.... I agree, that much free play is kind of silly. I did remove the dust cap, and looked at the splines, there is a really small amount of play between the spline shaft, and the rotor/hub. I do need to take it apart to see where the play is coming from. The axle does turn with the brake rotor, and there isn't much slop there.... so I'm thinking that most of the play could be in the diff (which is scary).

 

[molenz]

So if you hold on to the axle while turning the hub there is no play? If so then neither the hub or outer CV joint is worn. Check the inner CV then and see if it has play.
You can also put the vehicle in 4wd then turn the front driveshaft by hand, you'll have to put the vehicle on axle stands first though. Both the front axles should turn then, there will be minimal play in the front diff (backlash) which is normal, around 5mm max.
Have you tried driving in 4wd? If there is a fault in the front diff you should hear clunking then.