99 SD Build

[muskyman]

Looks awesome Ben!! Well let me know when you'd like to teach me how to make a rear bumper like that. Can you explain the why you "drilled and tapped to 7/16-20 grade 8 hardware" for the hubs? Is there a big difference to the standard hub hardware on DIs?

To elaborate on Ben's answer the bolts are not suposed to be loaded in sheer. the torque is suposed to be transferred from the flange to the hub by the friction between the two faces. The larger hardware increases the clamping forces because larger diameter bolts stretch less then smaller diameter ones. Once the bolts come loose the bolts are acted on in sheer and that where the problems start.

 

[craig]

Looks fantastic Ben! Very clean.

It's good to see you back in a fully built up rig again. I bet you are looking forward to getting back out there with your wife and son on a few adventures.

Craig

 

[marc olivares]

 

[benlittle]

Looks fantastic Ben! Very clean.

It's good to see you back in a fully built up rig again. I bet you are looking forward to getting back out there with your wife and son on a few adventures.

Craig

Thanks Craig!

I've put a lot of time into this truck... Trying to learn from my mistakes

 

[Mike_rupp]

To elaborate on Ben's answer the bolts are not suposed to be loaded in sheer. the torque is suposed to be transferred from the flange to the hub by the friction between the two faces. The larger hardware increases the clamping forces because larger diameter bolts stretch less then smaller diameter ones. Once the bolts come loose the bolts are acted on in sheer and that where the problems start.

I've simply switched to grade 12.9 socket head cap screws. The material has much less stretch that the factory bolts. The downside is that the bolts are hard and can back themselves out, so I always use blue locktite.

The factory bolts are very soft and will break off after 2 uses or so. Anybody want a Disco hub with a broken off bolt?

 

[muskyman]

The factory bolts are very soft and will break off after 2 uses or so. Anybody want a Disco hub with a broken off bolt?

yeah I have been forced to make that conversion as well...by your brother

I also have a hub with a broken off bolt...yep once again your brother...LOL

dont get me wrong Steve has always been a awesome influence on my truck.

 

[Scott Brady]

I would be interested in seeing images of this conversion on the hub, and any additional suggestions. Does the use of new axles and drive flanges change anything on this conversion, etc.?

I am just a few weeks away from taking down the Disco for the axle upgrades, and want to do it all at once (brakes, seals, bearings, new axles, etc.).

Thanks.

 

[Mike_rupp]

Scott, it's not that there's anything wrong with drilling and tapping the hubs to allow larger hardware, but using grade 12.9 socket head cap screws and some blue locktite is much easier and IMHO is more than enough for the job.

 

[muskyman]

I'd say it really depends on how the truck will be used.

Keith at rovertracks has even doubled up the number of fasteners at the 7/16" size for the guys that are rock crawling all the time with big tires and 30 spline toy conversions.

I agree that for most people a simple swap to the better quality cap screws is all its going to take and the sheered bolt issue is gone for good. Its been plenty good for me.

 

[JSQ]

I can't argue with anything in this setup and the truck looks good too.

 

[Scott Brady]

Scott, it's not that there's anything wrong with drilling and tapping the hubs to allow larger hardware, but using grade 12.9 socket head cap screws and some blue locktite is much easier and IMHO is more than enough for the job.

Perfect. Thanks

 

[revor]

The 7/16" screw solution is for when everything else has failed, I like the fine threads as they don't have as much a tendancy to back out, for general use I think the stock 10 mm stuff should be fine and it never hurts to have a higher quality bolt holding things together along with some "chemical insurance".
While the idea that the torque of the axle is being transfered to the hub via the friction of the flange face is sound I also recommend that anytime a bolt is mounted in a potential shear situation it should have a shoulder long enough to go beyond the shear point and nicely pilot into a like diameter.

 

[benlittle]

Scott, it's not that there's anything wrong with drilling and tapping the hubs to allow larger hardware, but using grade 12.9 socket head cap screws and some blue locktite is much easier and IMHO is more than enough for the job.

I totally agree.

MMMM, I just remembered why I actually did this to the front. The rear rovertracks axles I got had been drilled for 7/16 so I had to drill and tap the rears. I only did the front to have all the hubs the same

 

[muskyman]

The 7/16" screw solution is for when everything else has failed, I like the fine threads as they don't have as much a tendancy to back out, for general use I think the stock 10 mm stuff should be fine and it never hurts to have a higher quality bolt holding things together along with some "chemical insurance".
While the idea that the torque of the axle is being transfered to the hub via the friction of the flange face is sound I also recommend that anytime a bolt is mounted in a potential shear situation it should have a shoulder long enough to go beyond the shear point and nicely pilot into a like diameter.

I knew if I got your ears ringing you would show up:sombrero:

fine thread= more clamping force in the same diameter as long as you havent reached the yeild level of the bolt.

 

[grasshopper104]

Very nice Disco.