guidolyons
Addicted to Gear Oil
Dynamic balancing in action:
https://youtu.be/eq263AYgyYg
https://youtu.be/eq263AYgyYg
@Adrifters - F550 Surf Camper Build - Adrift Motorhome
- Thread starter S2DM
- Start date
bahndo
Supporting Sponsor: Bahn Camper Works
I believe that you can add the beads through the valve stem and not have to split the rim. I'm sure that is not the case for all beads (airsoft bb's will not go through a valve stem) but the ones that are sold for dynamic balancing specially should.
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Healeyjet
Explorer
Scott, they broke the rims apart and added I believe two packages of beads to each tire. I took it for a short drive and so far so good. Our 5000 mile drive starting next week will no doubt show whether they work or not.:smiley_drive: It took them all morning to do the 5 tires.
Ward
Ward
What I've been 'told' is that the hutchinson beadlock won't reliably let the beads through the rubber ring and into the outer portion of the rim. But thats not coming from any personal experience, so could very well be wrong.
guidolyons
Addicted to Gear Oil
Dynabeads can be loaded through a valve stem with the valve removed, but for the amount of beads you'd need to add (8oz+) for large truck tires it would probably take a really, really long time.
http://innovativebalancing.com
Recommended Tire size weight chart: http://innovativebalancing.com/mobile/chart_spec.php?4x4=1
I run Airsoft BBs (used the Dynabead chart for recommended oz.)
http://innovativebalancing.com
Recommended Tire size weight chart: http://innovativebalancing.com/mobile/chart_spec.php?4x4=1
I run Airsoft BBs (used the Dynabead chart for recommended oz.)
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Expedition.Report
Explorer
I know that the way my Hutchinsons are set up I would not be able to put them through the valve stem.
I would have to break a bead and put the BB's in on the other side of the rubber bead lock ring
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TenaciousTJ
Explorer
I ran Dynabeads in my Hutchinsons and it was a nightmare. The rubber Beadlock inside the wheel has two finger sized holes to allow air to pass through them. After not being able to get my wheels to balance, I took them apart and discovered beads had easily fallen into these air holes and were on both sides of the Beadlock, if that makes sense. No way to prevent it and get a decent balance with this design. Not to metion, Dynabeads customer service was absolutely terrible. Just my experience though.
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sarconcepts
Adventurer
try holding the nozzle halfway out, it will still catch on the springs around the tip so you can set it there without having to hold it the whole time. the splashback is what's shutting the pump off. i have this happen to a lesser degree on the Bullet, it may be because the fuel line to the tank is not sloped enough.
ABCanuck
Adventurer
Our suburban did the same thing. Not sure if the F series have a fuel vapor canister or if the diesels don't have them,but if the hoses or canister are restricted it can cause that kick back. Pretty infuriating when it's -30. Swap in a new canister and your in business.
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fluffyprinceton
Adventurer
If your vent is big enough then it must be the "splash" factor as mentioned by sarconcepts. Maybe a slide in "L" fitting 18" or more high that pressure fits through a taper in to your filler neck. Put it in for filling & the extension might give the gas enough room to flow cleanly. I'd carefully check the vent system first. Moe
transonite: Called the manufacturer and briefly talked to the application engineer. This stuff is custom engineered for each application. Each application requires a custom run (machine set up, material procurment, etc.). Buy direct from manufacturer. All = expensive.
Question to S2DM: These panels you are using, are they in fact from a custom run, or is this a secondary buy from another middleman that had a run manufactured that you were able to fit your needs from a engineering/design poin of view?
Would love to entertain the stuff, and still might depending on the answers of above.
Inquiring minds want to know....
Question to S2DM: These panels you are using, are they in fact from a custom run, or is this a secondary buy from another middleman that had a run manufactured that you were able to fit your needs from a engineering/design poin of view?
Would love to entertain the stuff, and still might depending on the answers of above.
Inquiring minds want to know....
The latter. The story is long, but the short of it is we were able to get access to some overage from a big job. We ran out of panels at about the 50% mark in our build and werent able to get more, so I started making my own after that.
I think the optimum profile for a camper in terms of skin thickness etc would probably be very weight comparable to the panels in use by the big boys. Ours were a little heavier than I would have liked, but..they are unbelievably strong. They would also work well in a bonded extrusion profile build system, but I wouldn't use them again to do a molded project like ours. The insulative material has a very good R value, but the combo of the crosslinking between the skins and the slightly friable nature of the core, makes it hard to form radiused edges etc.
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