I'm designing the interior of my Bison Overland composite hard shell flatbed camper. Think YETI-cooler-style house on the back of my truck. I am working on the interior design and have the option of plywood (which they'll build) or 80-20 (which I'll build). Does anyone here have advice on how to best attach extruded aluminum to the composite camper floor and walls so that it is permanently affixed and worry free?
Advice Needed: How to attach 80-20 to composite - Best Practices
- Thread starter cormpus
- Start date
dstefan
Well-known member
I DK about your composite surface material or its lamination tensile strength, but I can tell you I’ve had rock solid adhesion of 8020 to my aluminum camper skin for 16 months using 3M VHB tape (5259 Edit: 5952 - I seem to always get that backwards)) and thats through two Phoenix summers so far. I actually wanted to remove some but its permanent. They build airplanes with the stuff, so …
You can also attach to non metalic surfaces well, but may need to use 3M’s VHB primer. 3M also makes an LSE tape for low surface energy materials (think vinyl or rubber) that works very well too. If you’re real concerned about loads, and your composite can take some screws that will make small sections completely rigid. I don’t think bigger sections (12” or more) need any mechanical fasteners.
If, for instance, you have a cabinet supported by the floor and then adhered to the camper wall along the top edges, its not gonna move *as long as* you do your surface prep correctly. I’d also suggest using smooth sided 8020 for the side VHB’d to the wall to increase the square inches in contact with the tape.
You can also attach to non metalic surfaces well, but may need to use 3M’s VHB primer. 3M also makes an LSE tape for low surface energy materials (think vinyl or rubber) that works very well too. If you’re real concerned about loads, and your composite can take some screws that will make small sections completely rigid. I don’t think bigger sections (12” or more) need any mechanical fasteners.
If, for instance, you have a cabinet supported by the floor and then adhered to the camper wall along the top edges, its not gonna move *as long as* you do your surface prep correctly. I’d also suggest using smooth sided 8020 for the side VHB’d to the wall to increase the square inches in contact with the tape.
Last edited:
StenchRV
Well-known member
2022 RAM 5500 Composite "Super Camper"
More progress :cool: One of the things I forgot to mention in the previous post. The VHB I am using is .040 thick, on purpose, as it makes the Koropop bond much stronger. I have a test piece all glued up, exactly as I installed my 8020, and the pull scale arrives Tuesday. More to follow on...
expeditionportal.com
See post 223. I am adhering 8020 to a Total Composites box. I am using Korapop, the same as the box is assembled with, but 3M 5200 would give you about the same result. The thing to remember is you need to keep the adhesive thickness in the .030 range for the best strength.
I ordered 3M VHB that was .040 thick to hold the 8020 in place as the Korapop dried AND to insure the the adhesive remained at the proper thickness for maximum strength.
2022 RAM 5500 Composite "Super Camper"
So how is the ride with the Kelderman compared to stock? I've been debating liquid spring vs air ride on my service truck but just haven't had any 1st hand experience. They both are now within a grand or two for a full system. One is was more technical then the other but just curious at least...
expeditionportal.com
SEE POST 203 for more information.
I would use MUCH MORE 1 side flat 8020 next time!
Easier to either all VHB, also love the stuff, or 3M 5200, Koroapop. MY .02.
CHEERS and good luck with your build
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