AEV 2.5" lift install

Brianjwilson - Did the spacers work at all? Did it leak exhaust gas? It seems like a good direction, but like most aftermarket parts they are hit and miss. The spacer seems to work on some builds with mixed results on others. The installation video appeared to be ok, but I noticed the parts used in the vid look a little different than the picture on quadratec. Did you find this to be true? I have the automatic (wanted a manual, but my wife and I will both be driving it, so I opted for the easier of two, especially living in the mountains).

Everything I have done has been trial and error so it would not surprise me if the spacers don't work as advertised.

How did you get the exhaust pipe modified? Did you take it to a shop? How did the make they new section of pipe?
 
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brianjwilson

Some sort of lost...
The spacers didn't seem to leak, and did give more clearance. But with the frame on jack stands, the driveshaft was pushing on the y pipe still as the axle drooped. Maybe if you drove really easy it would be okay for a while, but eventually would tear it up.
Maybe they've made the spacers longer now(?) but they didn't work for me. I would not trust the front driveshaft for long anyway with the 3.5" lift. The angle on the cv joint out of the transfer case looked awful even on level ground and was nearly in a bind, surely the boot would rip before long. I ordered a new front driveshaft along with the y pipe right after I installed the lift and saw how it all worked together, or didn't.
I haven't fixed the y pipe yet, been busy with other stuff. Ill probably take it to a shop and have them weld an extra inch onto one of the sides to bring it together properly. If you have an automatic I think you'll be fine. I am just bitter because they are jerks to deal with. I've never had such poor service from a company where they simply refuse to accept or fix a problem that is clearly documented.
 
Well I have decided to stick with 2.5" lift. After talking to some more people, my original plan will work best for me. It seems like quite a few people have issues with the front driveshaft when going over 3" of lift. With the increased driveline angles the joints tend to wear out quicker. The solutions seems to be replacing front and in rare circumstances the rear with a new driveshaft similar to a Tom woods. Really it gets into economics. Adding the extra inch beyond the 2.5 adds a lot more cost for very little benefit. If I sink that much might as well go even higher lift. Seems like there is definitely a break over point in cost vs number of parts replaced.

Now I am still waiting for my 2013 to arrive............
 
Well the wait is over (for me :). My new rubicon arrived last weekend - absolutely love it! Next weekend I start the AEV 2.5" lift kit. I have already installed:

Soft top hardware from my 2010 (which I only used once)

Spod - very easy installation. My only modification to the Spod will be to seal the circuit board with epoxy or rubber type spray. The circuit board components don't really look very protected from the elements with the supplied aluminum cover.

AEV rear diff skid plate. Don't ask me why I got this. When I ordered the lift kit ( after a few beers) for some reason I added the skid plate to the order and totally forgot about it. It takes literally 5 minutes to install.

Also installed a bunch of little random things as well. Master craft grab handles. I took the supplied jeep grab handle straps and modified them. I removed the two straps from the handle by cutting the stitching. This gave the handle portion about an extra inch on each end. After that a lighter took care of any fray. From ther I heated up a large nail and made a hole on each end. Lastly i installed the handles via the two bolts on the overhead speaker bar. This is a great place grab handle location for rear passengers.

The boom mat installation was quick, easy and turned out great. Hardest part is taking the rear top off and flipping it over. It looks factory, reduces noise and insulates the top.

I am now trying to figure out what front and rear bumpers - I like the AEV front bumper and rear tire carrier, but I do not like the AeV rear bumper. The arb is nice, but I have not seen it in person. I refuse to drop so much money on anything I cannot see, feel, and inspect.

The wheels and tires will not get replaced until the current set is worn out.

To do (short term):
2.5" lift
Exhaust spacers
Fridge harness (via spod)
Rear lights (via spod)
Fridge slide
CB
7 way trailer harness (going to add electric brakes to my Sierra trailer)

Near term (once I decide a direction - most likely after overland expo when I can see these in person):
Front bumper / winch
Front off road lights
Rear bumper + tire carrier
Interior LED light conversion

Long term:
New wheels and tires
More skid plates
OBA (my cheap Costco compressor works great)

On the fence:
Gobi rack or Thule track ( I have all the Thule parts laying around)
 

crawler#976

Expedition Leader
Your going to love that lift. It's really stellar considering the price. Our Miss Rubi is featured in the install article in the June issue of 4Wheel Drive and Sport Utility.

In our effort to keep things light, I found a few bumpers that fit that goal, yet are way, way stouter than the stock plastic.

Seriously, the stock rear bumper doesn't weigh 5 pounds. It's all plastic with the exception of the brackets and molded in nuts. So, the GenRight Aluminum bumper at 20 lbs only added 15 lbs or so to the Jeep.

For the front, the LoD Armor Lite came in at 32 lbs. With the addition of the hoop and winch plates, it's only about 45 lbs. The bare AEV is 90+ lbs - so, we came just over that including the SmittyBilt XRC8 Comp winch at about 105 lbs total.

By keeping the lift low, the additions light weight, and tire size at 33" (285/70-17), we average about 17 MPG in town, 18 on the highway, and most importantly, it's been good to see it at 15 to 16 when aired down. Worst we've gotten was 13.4 in deep snow.

There's a thread on Miss Rubi here: http://www.expeditionportal.com/for...ucing-Miss-Rubi-a-2012-Jeep-Rubicon-Unlimited
 

crawler#976

Expedition Leader
Yes we did. No adjustment was needed, but anytime everything is loose like that, it is good to have it checked. In the 11K since it was installed, tire wear has been even and flat across the tread.

The geometry correction brackets do hang down a bit, but with careful tire placement it hasn't been an issue. I've never hit them, but I have thumped the rear shock mounts a few times.
 
So the plan is to install the lift kit this weekend. Does anyone have a recommendation for a dealership or shop in the greater phoenix area which can competently perform the alignment after the AEV 2.5" lift installation? I want to make sure I take it to a place which has experience with AEV lifts. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
 

toddz69

Explorer
So the plan is to install the lift kit this weekend. Does anyone have a recommendation for a dealership or shop in the greater phoenix area which can competently perform the alignment after the AEV 2.5" lift installation? I want to make sure I take it to a place which has experience with AEV lifts. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

Check with Sierra Expeditions - I've seen a JK or two getting some AEV components installed there. Wil will likely know of someone who can handle it if they can't do it.

Also, you might check with Jason Demento (sp?) at Airpark Jeep in Scottsdale. They're an AEV dealer.

Todd Z.
 
Thanks for the input. I checked AEV's website and they only list bill Luke as an authorized dealer. When I called their service department I could not get a clear answer from the dude who answered, he was flakey about answering my question - if they know how to / have experience with AEV lift kits. I will definitely try air park, they have a new AEV in their inventory which is a good sign.
 

toddz69

Explorer
Thanks for the input. I checked AEV's website and they only list bill Luke as an authorized dealer. When I called their service department I could not get a clear answer from the dude who answered, he was flakey about answering my question - if they know how to / have experience with AEV lift kits. I will definitely try air park, they have a new AEV in their inventory which is a good sign.

Here's Jason's contact info from his sig over on the AEV forum:

Jason De Monto
Trail Concepts
480-788-7245
2005 Jeep LJ
3" Nth/Aev
Highline fenders
 
Well, I still have not installed the lift. Work has been crazy and my plans have been delayed. Current eta for the install is next weekend. At least gives me another week to try and look into AEV vs ARB front and rear bumpers.
 
Finally got the lift installed. I was able to install it by myself last Saturday - started at 6 am and finished at 4 pm. Sunday I spent about a couple hours checking every bolt for proper torque and to make sure everything was correct.

before:



Lessons learned:

1) solo install took a long time. There were many instances where I would grab the wrong socket or wrench crawl under the frame and then curse when I had to crawl out from under to get the right socket. Also found the slight incline of the driveway was very annoying - every once in a while I would drop a socket and I would watch it roll away thus prompting the shimmy from underneath the jeep to play fetch.

2) the AEV instructions were about 80-90% complete ( online version). The printed copies with the lift kit and drop brackets were outdated.

Rear:

1) the rear installation went pretty quick and was straight forward vs. the front

2) I had to pull the fir tree zip ties from the frame for abs sensor harness, the locker harness from the diff, disconnect the axle vent tube and loosen and drop the parking brake line bracket to get enough slack to drop the axle low enough to put the springs in. To give a little extra Slack in the park brake bracket I installed a new m6 nut and washer as a spacer. This lowered the bracket about 1/4 inch and gives just a hair more slack for the park brake line at full axle drop.





3) the AEV insructions say to clock the rear springs, but there is no detent like the front spring perches. I just payed attention to how the old ones were installed and clocked the new to match - this is when I discovered the paper instructions I had were not up to date as the latest instructions online show that the end of the spring coil needs to clocked such that it is at the rear of he vehicle. put naturally this was after the rear was done. I clocked relative to the OEM on the axle perch which is 90 deg off from their instructions. The jury is out if I will go back and change.

4) the instructions just tell you to remove the brake line bracket bolts. When I started to drop the axle it started to bend the lines. I stopped and then test fit the drop brackets and carefully bent the line down. Figured it was better to pre bend them thus reducing possibility of kinking the line.



5) the instructions don't tell you what to do with the axle or abs harness after the install. Putting back to oem looks like it will not provide enough extension at full flex, but leaving them disconnected seems to have too much slack. Should be easy to fix by moving the hole locations on the frame and for the axle lock harness I already fixed by putting in a couple of zip ties looped to still anchor to the original spot.

6) the trackbar bracket included an extra nut. This is used to replace the oem nut which has a tab on it ( factory assembly aid). This wasn't quite spelled out clearly, but made sense once the bolt is flipped from original orientation.



Front:

1) printed instructions were as stated earlier off from online.

2) instructions online do not mention that the frame side of the upper control arms have heat shields. They are held in place by two bolts. I could not remove the top bolts on either the left or right control arms. I was able to get the bottom ones out which allowed me to bend the heat shields out of the way to gain access to the control arm bolts. I ended up just leaving them in place and trimming them around the AEV drop brackets.





3) a short and deep 21mm sockect were my friends. In some instances the short worked better and vice versa.

4) I did not see the point of disconnecting the front driveshaft. I did it, but did not see the value. The process was easiest from the wheel well. I put into 4wd and loosened two then put in 2wd, clocked to access the other two and put back in 4wd to keep it from turning. Used zip ties to hold it out of the way.

5)I followed the instructions for the front brake line bracket, but do not like at all their final direction of using zip ties to hold it to the shock - this seems very cheesy and cheap. I am surprised the did not provide a me bracket. I am researching alternatives at the moment.

6)Again it says to remove the harness for locker/speed sensor but doesn't say to leave it disconnected from the bracket. Again looking for ideas as it seems to have too much slack.

7) to drill holes for the bump stops and install springs I found that raising the axle, putting a jack stand on one side of the axle, then lowering the axle caused enough tilt to allow for the drill to clear the upper bump stop tower. This also made it easier to install the spring.





8) sway bar extension brackets - AEV instructions no good. First in order to see the issue you have to reconnect the track bar. Since you use the oem track bar the result according to the AEV forum is that after the lift the axle is offset 6mm. Trying to push the axle over and get the axle side track bar bolt lined up is a major PITA when solo. Once I finished struggling with that I went on to reconnect the swaybar end links to the new brackets and found the passenger side looked way off. In the AEV instructions the show the bracket installed inboard of the OEM tab. This was ok for the drivers side, but I had to move it outboard on the pass side to get the end link to connect to the bracket.

9) upper front shock bushings - AEV instructions no good! I could not for the life of me get the bilstein supplied bushings to work at all. First the ended up being too thick and I could not get enough thread to get the nut started and second the bushing and washer would not fit due to clearance with the battery tray on the passenger side. I spent time looking up this dilemma for a while on the Internet and found that others reused the oem bushings and nut. I ended up going that route which would have saved me a bunch of time. The oem went back on just as easy as they came off. This really seems to be an oversite with the AEV instructions.





10) the online instructions include a torque table while my printed copy did not.

11) the drop brackets - online had updated instructions which explained the cam bolt replacement. I did not have a cam bolt on the front of the lower control arms. So I ended up using the thick washers on the rear lower control arm bolt.

12) I noticed after everything was done it appears the driveshaft boot makes contact with the exhaust shield at full drop. I purchased the exhaust spacers, but did not get to install them yet. That will be done in two weekends.

For the most part it was a pretty easy install asides from the few grey areas where the instructions were unclear or wrong. After everything was checked out I took it for a test spin and was surprised how well it felt. The alignment was really not that far off. On Monday I took it to air park jeep and had them check the alignment and they said it was very close an required minimal adjustment. I did notice a slight difference after and was very pleased with the end result.



What i also realized after uploading pictures to this write up, i found that i totally did not take very many pictures. I was very focused on the work and took far less pictures than i thought. Again when doing this solo it is difficult to multi task. I either wrench or take pics, but cannot do both.

Now I need to get front and rear bumpers and then figure out if I want to replace the rims and tires now or later.

Will re edit with pics once I get a chance to upload.
 
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