after market brake rotors?

BigAl

Expedition Leader
I need to buy my 3rd set of brake rotors for my 80K 04 F250. The first stock set went at 25K. The second elcheapo advance auto set started to go after 40K. What kind of rotors have you guys had luck with on 6k plus trucks. Where are the best deals on line?
 

LandCruiserPhil

Expedition Leader
I need to buy my 3rd set of brake rotors for my 80K 04 F250. The first stock set went at 25K. The second elcheapo advance auto set started to go after 40K. What kind of rotors have you guys had luck with on 6k plus trucks. Where are the best deals on line?

Believe it or not I have heard good results with Autozone and they offer a life time warranty against warping. Talking with the manager, they do not have the equipment to check them so all you do is bring the in and you get a fresh rotor no questions asked.
 

MotoDave

Explorer
How quickly are you going through pads? It sounds to me like you're using a pad/rotor combination that's not operating in its designed temperature range. Properly bedded, and operating in its designed temp range, the stopping force of a pad/rotor combo is actually between pad material transferred to the rotor, and the pad itself. Too cold or too hot and you're relying on friction of the pad against the steel of the rotor itself, and can shred pads and rotors very quickly.

I will vouch for Raybestos being a quality pad supplier. For rotors on cars I've used Brembo where available, and had good luck with the OEM otherwise, but I'm not sure Brembo will have applications for large trucks.
 

Haggis

Appalachian Ridgerunner
My old Dodge use to eat OEM and aftermarket pads and rotors a little to much. I finally found a great combo using Raybestos pads and NaPa branded rotors. I'm not sure if was just the pads making the NaPa rotors last longer or the combo of the two but since I was having such improved results I stuck with 'em.
 

xwerx

Observer
I purchased EBC Green Stuff pads and the EBC dimpled/ slotted rotors for my 05 F150. Absolutely love them. Significant increase in brake feel and also stop the truck in a shorter distance (even after switching to a E rated 33"). The pads and rotors have been on the truck now for about 50k miles. Will be purchasing again.

FWIW I have also installed the same combo on my wife's 04 G35. Again, love the upgrade.

Daniel
 
Last edited:

KLAKEBRONCO

Adventurer
Hawk Super Duty or Reybestos Extreme Duty

Brembo stock replacement rotors.

You won't find a better setup.


Stock class road racers use Brembo stock replacements whenever the stock brakes must be used.....

And I can personally vouch for the Hawk and Reybestos pads on several vehicles.
 

R_Lefebvre

Expedition Leader
I'm getting really frustrated with brakes. I am having trouble finding anything that works well anymore. I paid extra for premium NAPA rotors on my car last time, and they're still crap. They rust quickly, and the pads don't clean them up. I practically have to change the rotors any time I let the car sit for 1 month.
 

MotoDave

Explorer
Any grey iron rotor is going to rust when left to sit, but it should just be surface rust and should be removed from the pad swept area after a few applications of the brake when driving.

A lot of manufacturers have optional coatings. In my opinion E-coat is the most effective. Gold zinc and clear zinc will help somewhat but can discolor or burn off if you get them really hot. None of these coatings should be on the rotor swept surface.
 

BBsound

Adventurer
are you sure the rotors are warped or are they gripping unevenly due to off-gassing? lots of times people think their rotors are warped, but they are not. the pad material is not evenly dispersed on the rotor causing it to grip better in one spot. you may just need to rebed your existing rotors.

the uneven deposits are caused by stopping heavily and then holding the vehicle completely still with the brakes, causing hot pad material to be deposited in the one place were the pad is holding.

some manufacturers recommend a pad bed-in practice that suggests heating the pads and rotors up without completely stopping. ie: driving around and repeatedly slowing quickly from 30mph to about 5mph. with a few minutes between each one.
 

Regcabguy

Oil eater.
I had good luck with NAPA stock rotors and Dodge OEM pads on the '98.5. Ford's tradionally eat brakes for dinner as the 16" wheels precluded bigger calipers/rotors. My buddy's a 30 year brake mechanic and Dodge/Fords with 16" wheels keep food on his table. The EBC Green stuff might be the key.
 

R_Lefebvre

Expedition Leader
Any grey iron rotor is going to rust when left to sit, but it should just be surface rust and should be removed from the pad swept area after a few applications of the brake when driving.

A lot of manufacturers have optional coatings. In my opinion E-coat is the most effective. Gold zinc and clear zinc will help somewhat but can discolor or burn off if you get them really hot. None of these coatings should be on the rotor swept surface.

Nope, it goes deep. I have a set of OEM rotors on a 2001 Focus that are still fine. The other Focus has had several sets of non-OEM rotors in the same amount of time. Both cars sit about the same.
 

super04duty

Observer
Ive got DBA slotted rotors and Hawk ceramic pads on my '04 F-350. Stopping distance improved as well as pedal feel. Ive gone through a set and a half of tires, and the pads/rotors still look like they did when I first got them. A little pricey, but worth it IMO.
 
are you sure the rotors are warped or are they gripping unevenly due to off-gassing? .... The pad material is not evenly dispersed on the rotor causing it to grip better in one spot. you may just need to rebed your existing rotors.

the uneven deposits are caused by stopping heavily and then holding the vehicle completely still with the brakes, causing hot pad material to be deposited in the one place were the pad is holding.

some manufacturers recommend a pad bed-in practice that suggests heating the pads and rotors up without completely stopping......

^^Pretty common scenario here^^​

And it actually fixed my "warped rotor" issue :snorkel:
 

HenryJ

Expedition Leader
... I paid extra for premium NAPA rotors on my car last time, and they're still crap. They rust quickly, and the pads don't clean them up...
NAPA is tricky. Watch out for their "clever" marketing. The Premium rotors are not their good rotors. Their "good" line is the Ultra Premium rotors.
I have found those to be "crap" too. Re-badged boxes with the same cheaper line. Inconsistent iron content. They warp easily.
I recently had a go around with the regional rep for NAPA brakes. I am not convinced that their products are of the highest caliber. There will be inconsistencies depending upon location. The re-badged parts were likely a problem beyond the distribution centers.
Some of their issues have been resolved, but it may take a couple years for the old stock to purge from the system. Not all applications will have the same problems. Many times they outsource OEM parts. Those may be the same quality parts originally supplied. Keep your eyes on what you buy. Caveat Emptor.
It does not stay the same. Everyone is trying to remain competitive. Check each time you buy.

I am having good luck with Powersolt rotors purchased from Summitracing.com
The Hawk Ceramic performance pads I bought to use with them are crap though. Noisy poor performing pads. They are OK when heated, but garbage when cold. Never again for me with those.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
189,926
Messages
2,922,276
Members
233,083
Latest member
Off Road Vagabond
Top