Air Lockers or Factory Lockers, and M8000 winch questions

Right now the only winch I have is on my 4wheeler and running the synthetic line on roller, But I bought it that way and rollers aren't all chewed up by wire already. I have used it many many many times and so as log as you start with a new roller I see no problems.
I gotcha. But definitely to the +1 about getting the 6-year old to run the rope up the hill :)

Having a stronger breaking strength is a +1 in my book. I was a rock climbing instructor so I understand being a little more aware of synthetic ropes frailties. I think I may upgrade my wire to syn. after I take the course. I'll feel more confident in exactly what I want.

So a synthetic rope requires a Hawse fairlead? I can't get by with using roller fairleads and a syn rope?
 

1911

Expedition Leader
So a synthetic rope requires a Hawse fairlead?

No, it doesn't.


I can't get by with using roller fairleads and a syn rope?

Yes you can, as long as the rollers are new and haven't been nicked or burred by an existing wire rope.


Okay, so this may also sound a bit dumb, which side does the clutch handle/planatery cover go on when looking at the vehicle from the front? Does the clutch go on the right side/driver side?

On an M8000, yes, on the driver's side.
 

Life_in_4Lo

Explorer
I have this setup (M8k, syn rope, hawse) and it's fine.
If I were in mud a lot, I would move to a 12K.
You can never have too big a winch, but I think the 8k is a good minimum for the 80- lightweight setup and reliable

the only thing i don't like about the steel roller fairlead is that it's really heavy- not a big deal I guess, since it's free w/ the winch.
can't argue about that.

for abraision protection, use a sleeve. I have about 4' of old firehose as a sleeve, stays on the rope and also acts as a cover for the rope when spooled.
I got syn mostly for safety but it's lightweight and handled easily to boot.

don't forget necessary accessories to go along w/ the winch. shackles, straps, extensions... otherwise the winch can be a bit useless
 

KevinMLee

Wannabe
don't forget necessary accessories to go along w/ the winch. shackles, straps, extensions... otherwise the winch can be a bit useless

Accessories I know... I understand that from Rockclimbing... it's primarily the winch that kinda bogged me but from the homework i've done and the common sense that goes with it... this is pretty much a "no brainer".

No, it doesn't.




Yes you can, as long as the rollers are new and haven't been nicked or burred by an existing wire rope.




On an M8000, yes, on the driver's side.

Right now the only winch I have is on my 4wheeler and running the synthetic line on roller, But I bought it that way and rollers aren't all chewed up by wire already. I have used it many many many times and so as log as you start with a new roller I see no problems.

Thanks! Now I hear that the life of the wire rope is longer than the life of a syn rope... is there a point as to when I should retire any of the two? I know there has to be a service life to 'em.

Also, since syn rope doesn't snap back with lethality like the wire rope does if it breaks, is there no actual need of an "air brake" (aka heavy jacket, blanket, ARB flag, etc)? or would it be good practice to use one anyways?
 

kletzenklueffer

Adventurer
something else I didn't see mentioned is that you may need spacers to fit between the winch mounting surface and the ARB. Mine has two 1/4" x5" flat steel bars per side to give 1/2" space. This moves the motor back so that it isn't against the inside of the bumper.
 

Jonathan Hanson

Well-known member
Always use a weight on the rope. Synthetic line can snap back; other factors besides line stretch can cause this. While the line itself might not be dangerous, you're going to have a metal bit on the end which is.

If you keep your synthetic line protected from UV exposure it will last a long time.
 

KevinMLee

Wannabe
something else I didn't see mentioned is that you may need spacers to fit between the winch mounting surface and the ARB. Mine has two 1/4" x5" flat steel bars per side to give 1/2" space. This moves the motor back so that it isn't against the inside of the bumper.

Yeah I figured that about the spacers so I bought the ARB Winch Kit (#3500050). I realize guys can make their own, but I don't have the means to make my own so I bought the kit.

Always use a weight on the rope. Synthetic line can snap back; other factors besides line stretch can cause this. While the line itself might not be dangerous, you're going to have a metal bit on the end which is.

If you keep your synthetic line protected from UV exposure it will last a long time.

So how do you tell when the line, either wire or syn, is fatigued? I understand that about UV protection, but more curious in regards to what the signs are about rope retirement.
 

KevinMLee

Wannabe
All this talk of Synthetic rope/wire, It got me thinking... maybe I should get synthetic rope/wire. =)

With that said, whats the best way to respool a winch, as in, is there a technique to spool on the rope attachment end?

Also, is Viking Offroad a reliable source to buy synthetic rope and recovery accessories (aka, green pins, ARB Snatch, etc)?
 
I bought my synthetic line from Viking and was pleased with the service, etc. They have a good reputation so far as I have ever heard.

You generally re-spool on a winch trying to dress it neatly, spooling from underneath, and under some load. There are DVDs & books that cover winch techniques and such, and the instructions that come with the winches. The manual for my Warn VR12000 was also available in PDF format.
 

KevinMLee

Wannabe
I bought my synthetic line from Viking and was pleased with the service, etc. They have a good reputation so far as I have ever heard.

You generally re-spool on a winch trying to dress it neatly, spooling from underneath, and under some load. There are DVDs & books that cover winch techniques and such, and the instructions that come with the winches. The manual for my Warn VR12000 was also available in PDF format.

Cool Thanks! I'll look into it! What thickness is your syn rope?
 

1911

Expedition Leader
I bought my synthetic line from Viking and was pleased with the service, etc.

I bought one of mine and an extension from Viking and was very pleased with the product and the service. The owner of the company personally contacted me after I received my order to make sure I was happy with it.

That particular winch line is 3/8" diameter because I have a lot of room on that drum:

IMG_0785.jpg


On the Warn M8000 on one of my other trucks, I went with 5/16" Amsteel Blue from Rockstomper.com I had good service from them too, six years ago.
 

KevinMLee

Wannabe
I bought one of mine and an extension from Viking and was very pleased with the product and the service. The owner of the company personally contacted me after I received my order to make sure I was happy with it.

That particular winch line is 3/8" diameter because I have a lot of room on that drum:

IMG_0785.jpg


On the Warn M8000 on one of my other trucks, I went with 5/16" Amsteel Blue from Rockstomper.com I had good service from them too, six years ago.

Oh cool! If you could do it over again with your M8000, would you stick with your 5/16" or would you use the 3/8"?

I also just saw that Viking makes synthetic rope sleeves, both permanent and removable....
 

KevinMLee

Wannabe

Yeah just saw this! Thanks! I'm going to follow up on 'MUD/SouthEast Overland. Crawlorado for some reason isn't working.

I'm going to see what SouthEast can offer me on a MasterPull Superline in 3/8" 85feet with just a thimble so I can throw on a Factor55. But even that is still $400 shipped so far as I can tell.
 

1911

Expedition Leader
If you could do it over again with your M8000, would you stick with your 5/16" or would you use the 3/8"?

The M8000 drum will hold 100' of 5/16" line, and less than that (80-90'?) of 3/8" line, so yes I would go with 3/8" for the extra margin of safety and carry a winch line extension for the times I might need a longer run to an anchor. The other advantage with larger-diameter line (and hence less of it on the drum) is that when you unwind it off the drum, you get down to the lower layers sooner and get more pulling power.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
188,625
Messages
2,908,033
Members
230,800
Latest member
Mcoleman
Top