ntsqd said:Think it's just cosmetic? I'd expect there to be some turbulence there, and turbulence anywhere would effect ultimate efficiency.
It had some reason that an accountant signed off on it's cost of mfg.
Robthebrit said:The panels are good and they are 150W each but you never get the rated power because of the volt drop in the converter, dirt on the panels, none ideal lighting and temperature etc. The max I have ever got is about 12 amps at 14.4v which is about 170W. A more realistic charge is more like 8-9 amps ( around 120W) and thats only during good light, in shade or shadow that figure drops rapidly. The panels are on the flat root and point straight up and I get pretty low power output until the sun is high in the sky.
8 amps is not enough to run the truck and put back what I used during the night especially if both fridges are going. I did consider adding a new panel to the hatch on the roof so I could angle it towards the sun but I figured a seperate independent system would be better. The turbine was about half the price of the solar upgrade and generates lots more power. I ultimaltey decided on the turbine because it works in the night and there is typically wind in situations where solar is not practical - rain, snow, dust, night etc.
I may be completely wrong, like I said its an experiment, we'll have to see how it works out but I don't see any downsides.
Rob
Robthebrit said:Martyn, will do. Maybe I'll take a trip out to you guys when its all working.
Is it worth running them as the vehcile is driven? A fast spinning prop blade is like a solid disk when it comes drag. Anybody who as flown a prop plane will be able to tell you how much drag they can create. Overall I think a bigger alternator would be more efficient.
Rob
Mounted on a trailer that makes perfect sense to be able to charger the trailer's house battery without the tow vehicle providing power. Would lower the need for upgrades (larger alternator to handle more batteries) on the tow vehicle.Martyn said:Rob
I was think along the lines of having the blades running horizontally when driving (as in flat on the roof), and then having the ability to tilt the blades up to vertical when camped.
That way the drag would be reduced when driving, but because of the additional speed the maximum power from the turbine would be close to 100%.
When camped and the wind speeds were lower drag would not be a factor so the blades could be in a more traditional arrangement.
This company uses a similar system http://www.appropriateenergy.com/patented.htm
Grim Reaper said:Mounted on a trailer that makes perfect sense to be able to charger the trailer's house battery without the tow vehicle providing power. Would lower the need for upgrades (larger alternator to handle more batteries) on the tow vehicle.
Martyn said:How about taking an other step forward and have the trailer power the vehicle? Have a look at these wheel mounted electric motors http://www.worldcarfans.com/2060724.006/pml-builds-640hp-electric-mini
No drive train to reduce the efficiency. The possibility of going from 2X4 to 4x4 with the flick of a switch.
Use the trailer to power the vehicle on extended trips.
Rob as agreed to put one of the prototypes through the paces
The first 4wd was Dr Porsche in 1900 and it was electric. The first MECHANICAL drive (diffs and case) was 1902 by Spyker who is still around. http://www.spykercars.com/ http://www.4wdonline.com/ClassicCars/Spyker.html. Then Mercedes in 1903 built some that included 4 wheel steer.ntsqd said:I think Dr. Porsche was beat to the punch in the first 4wd. FWD was there in 1908 though not with "hub motors" as they are sometimes known.
http://www.4wdonline.com/FWD/FWD.html
http://www.oramagazine.com/pastissues/0503-issue/050312d-old-iron.html
The pinion shaft drive of an alternator is done on some current racing cars. Can easily see that working to charge trailer batteries, though the added complexity may not be worth it.