Alaskan Camper on local Craigslist

[omaha_rick]

howdy all, i am a newb and lookin into multiple options for a mild offroad camper rig. my truck is a 1989 K2500 with a deitroit 6.2L, and i am on the fence to build a custom trailer or put a slide in camper onto the truck. then this appears:

http://omaha.craigslist.org/rvs/2260582246.html

i know very little about these campers so i hoped one of you had more info, like a fair price to offer. any help is appreciated.

-rick

 

[dwh]

Wow a 10 footer non-cabover. That's a very sweet camper. If there's no water damage or rot I would think it'd be a damned good deal at a thousand.

But that's just me. I actually have no idea of the market value. You might ask on this forum (though maybe keep it to yourself where the camper is so someone doesn't snake it out from under you ):

http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/index.php?/forum/18/

 

[fisher205]

That's a 60's model and maybe even older. Near the back door should be a plate that tells where it was built. Check underneath along the back edge, vents, the door and window frames, and the corners for rot. If you see any leaking it probably got pretty wet. It probably will need the seals between the two halves replaced but that is an easy repair and needs to be done over 4-5 years. Hoe this helps

Brad

 

[omaha_rick]

thank you for info. tried calling today, but no awnser. guess i'll try again tomorrow.

 

[Tennmogger]

A 10' NCO built in 1971 is what I use. My wife and I really like it. I agree that $1k would be a reasonable price if the camper is not rotted out, but if there's any water damage inside (be sure to raise the sides to look at the interior) then cut the price because a lot of work might be needed.

The wooden Alaskans take a beating and survive. One problem though is twisting of the truck bed if in rough terrain. No camper can take much of that, but the Alaskan does better than most.

Check out the Truck Camper Magazine below for pictures of mine. I know of two other Alaskans on Unimogs and they 'work'.

Bob

 

[omaha_rick]

i did get ahold of the owner tonite, and found that its a local car lot. Said he had multiple calls but no one came to look at it, and to make an offer because he needs it gone. if i find it's not rotted (or rotted to badly) i'll offer up last weeks pay, because that is really all i can part with. thank you for the help, i'll keep you posted.

alos, how does the raise / lower system work on these older units??

 

[m37cdn]

I used to have a 10' NCO alaskan like that..there should be a hydraulic hand pump inside a cabinet that is beside the rear door.
Hopefully the pump handle is rolling around inside one of the cabinets if not bring a short chunk of steel tubing to work the pump.

once you have the top part lifted you will need to put the pins in the cylinders (two front, two rear), the original setup was cotter pins hanging on short chains, failing that I used 2' nails or short bits of coat hanger wire...

Definitely inspect the areas beside and under the side windows for water damage, if there is staining or the plywood is separating knock several hundred off the price... Also check the roof area around the vent...the original setup was an aluminum low profile hatch.. if the previous owners changed it out be sure the new hatch is bedded properly to the roof and the old screw holes are filled

If the camper comes with tripod cable jacks.. remember the outside lifts up.. when you go to lift the camper , first lift the roof a little then lift on the inside box..or better yet.. don't use them at all, use a two post car hoist

 

[bing]

If the hydraulics work, and there isn't any active rot, get it.

When you jack it up it may go up crooked or faster in the front,,slower in the rear (or vise versa). Apply some down pressure with your hands to the side that is going up faster as you jack so the tracks dont bind. Once up, be sure to install the cotter pins and release the hydraulic pressure. Chances are the o-rings in each cylinder leak (simple fix), so you dont want to have all the oil leak out and make a mess.

If it doesn't go up, you should be able to squeeze your fingers past the seal between the roof and base to feel for rot under the windows (typical issue).

Another common problem is a rotten floor or one that has fallen apart so the camper flexes side to side. Also check the corners where the eye hooks are located for tethering to the truck. Another spot to check is the bolts that hold the track system to the roof.

I agree with the appraisal of $800-1000 if everything works and no rot (a few stains are OK,,,but no active rot and moisture). That being said, if you find some problems with the hydraulics and cant get the roof up to inspect it,,,you could probably buy that camper for $200-300.

Caution: when jacking be sure the awning windows are closed all the way (you may have to climb inside and latch them as it is going up). The latches can lay open and catch between the top and bottom and bind/bend causing problems.

I also agree that the camper is a mid to late 60's model. It looks very similar to my 1966. The plywood interior on that vintage is beautiful and much stronger than anything they have made since. Alaskan went to panelling in the 70's,,which is garbage compared to the plywood of the 60's.

 

[omaha_rick]

i went to the car lot today and took a good look at the camper. when i tried to lift it, it would not rasie, so i cracked open the relief and found air pressure. i assumed it was just out of fluid. i looked all over the unit as best i could, bottom of cabnets, floor, outside edges, and it seemed very solid.

i let my heart lead, and after some dickering we agreed on $300.

once back at the shop we loaded it into my buddies truck (mine has an engine swap en-route) and started playing. added about 1 1/4 quarts of hyd oil and presto, top lifts :wings:

i do have leaks at each cylinder, but far worse at the driver's rear. found some light staining along the bottom edge of the top half (just as you said, bing) but i found nothing major, there. i had noticed wet carpet at the back 6" near the door, but i checked the floor very carfully while it was supported by the fork lifts, and found it was perfect. solid, with no staining. but then the obvious reared its head, the doors have not sealed well in some time because the back wall, on the top half, is soft. . i was a bit nervous at first, but all in all i am pleased.

i will post plenty of pics as i take them

thank you for all the help.

 

[dwh]

Nice! I like! Looks a good deal.

You find out what year it is?

 

[omaha_rick]

dwh,
no i dont know what year it is, the tag on the rear is faded to the point that i cant read it. but there might be some info with all the 'treasure' inside.

pics maybe slow coming, my first priority is to finish the engine swap in this

so i can :smiley_drive:


but thats a whole 'nother tread.


peace
-rick

 

[bing]

Good Deal! :victory:

The rot at the bottom section of the roof is likely not a leak but condensation build up from the windows that slides down and builds up on the wood. I always store my Alaskan in the up position to avoid the moisture that will inevitabley build up between the roof and bottom wall(the whole wall will rot rather that just the small portion under the windows). I have seen some terrible damage caused by being stored in the down position,,even when kept under a roof due to condensation build up. When I replaced my roof seals, I decided not to replace the inner seal, so that I could get some air circulation between the walls so moisture had a place to escape. If it got really cold, I would use a strip of 5/8" foam caulking to help seal the gap.

So happy to see a beauty like that go into the hands of someone who plans to do some good to it, rather than see it rot somewhere and eventually be cut up into scrap.