All Purpose YJ Build...

nano151

Observer
...As for the springs, I've never really looked into it, buy why do people choose to run XJ springs in YJs? Is it only in the rear?

You don't really notice it on XJs but the center pin (where the axle is located) is actualy offset. I think it's offset 3" to the front. On the YJs and CJ's you run the XJ sping backwards (with the offset to the rear). This instantly extends your wheelbase roughly 4 to 5" cuz its also a longer spring. I've gone further by mounting the shackle hanger on the back end of the bumper. Haven't checked but i'm probably running about 7" stretched in the rear.

Longer wheelbased rigs climb & descend obstacles better. More importantly for me is that with the stretch, comp-cut corners and tube fenders, i can run a bigger tire with zero lift. The fronts are STOCK YJs and the rears are STOCK XJs. Otherwise i'd need a ladder to get into a normal jeep on 38s.
 

bldeagle10

Explorer
Now as far as wheelbase width, i would love to narrow the axles but it's just not in the cards right now. I also don't want to put any money into 1/2 ton axles. I do plan to one day switch to a d60 / 14bolt combo and when i do the plan is to have them narrowed a bit. I also want to eventually get a set of 37x13ish tires with a deeper offset rim to bring the tires in some more.
that sounds like a plan, i would love to run a D60 rear and D44 front one day, just have to find a jeep id want it on, the only one i can think of is a JK, make my own version of a J8. maybe on a blazer, or go all crazy with a D80/D60 combo on my 75 suburban.
You don't really notice it on XJs but the center pin (where the axle is located) is actualy offset. I think it's offset 3" to the front. On the YJs and CJ's you run the XJ sping backwards (with the offset to the rear). This instantly extends your wheelbase roughly 4 to 5" cuz its also a longer spring. I've gone further by mounting the shackle hanger on the back end of the bumper. Haven't checked but i'm probably running about 7" stretched in the rear.

Longer wheelbased rigs climb & descend obstacles better. More importantly for me is that with the stretch, comp-cut corners and tube fenders, i can run a bigger tire with zero lift. The fronts are STOCK YJs and the rears are STOCK XJs. Otherwise i'd need a ladder to get into a normal jeep on 38s.

thats a really interesting little tid bit of information. especially in the case of building a Low COG rig. that's great for Expo purposes
 

nano151

Observer
Not too much to add. I started to paint the hood, but i need to add a few more coats. Got the grill installed which was painted with the same bedliner paint used on the corner armor. I'm still fighting with that rear tailgate though. Seams the mounting holes that i drilled in the armor for the hinges are slightly off so i'll have to oval out the holes a bit to get it right.

I took the fenders off cuz i lucked out and found a pair of YJ tube fenders ready to bolt in that already have inner fenders and 3" flares! Turned out my brother lives 30min away from the guy so i'm just waiting for him to bring them down this week. Total cost with gas money = $140. Thats what the 3" flare kit was going to cost me and these are ready to paint and bolt in.

Since the fenders were off i decided to test fit the River Raider snorkel. I like that it's strong and simple but i'm not sure if i like how it sticks out in front of the windshield. It's doesn't block your view from the driver's seat but it looks wierd from the left side of the jeep.

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drbandkgb

Xterra Junky
Good looking build... Seems like all the work you have done you could have went with coil over springs... Would have rode much better and a lot more flex...
 

Overland

Observer
Good looking build... Seems like all the work you have done you could have went with coil over springs... Would have rode much better and a lot more flex...

actually this jeep with the nearly flat leaf springs will flex and ride very well as the flat leafs will flex up and down almost equally. and the reason to stick with leafs...super easy to set this rig up, swapping the whole thing over to coils and links is ALOT more setup.

and to the original poster, wagoneer front leafs will mount to your stock front spring hangers and they are also offset centre pin and will move your front axle ahead 2 inches... talk about good aproach angle:Wow1:

very nice build, glad you stuck with it after the frame and tub difficulties.
 

nano151

Observer
actually this jeep with the nearly flat leaf springs will flex and ride very well as the flat leafs will flex up and down almost equally. and the reason to stick with leafs...super easy to set this rig up, swapping the whole thing over to coils and links is ALOT more setup.

Exactly my reason for sticking with leaves. Simplicity and easy to find replacement parts. Even if i eventually upgrade to a custom set of leafs, i'll always have the option of throwing on an old set of stocks from the junk yard while i wait for replacements.

and to the original poster, wagoneer front leafs will mount to your stock front spring hangers and they are also offset centre pin and will move your front axle ahead 2 inches... talk about good aproach angle:Wow1:

very nice build, glad you stuck with it after the frame and tub difficulties.

I'm waiting to see how the jeep finally settles before i decide on wagoneer springs or not. My only concern is that i welded in the rear (front) shackle hanger to fit the YJ springs but the waggies are 3" longer so my angles might be too much.
 

nano151

Observer
Got some my new-to-me tube fenders. These are ready to bolt in, they already have the 3" flare and the have already inner fenders! Not bad for $125. The only problem now is that i won't be able to wait to add the 3" flares in back now that the front will be done. I still have to drill out some of the mounting holes a little bigger for adjustments.

I also got the wire run to the rear and most of the front lighting is wired up now. The dash wiring is going to be hell though. Not cuz of the dash but cuz of the steering column.

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nano151

Observer
I also decided to mock up the future rear winch since i had the winch and plate off. Just slid some scrap 1/4" 2x2 in the hitch and rested the winch on it. Good thing is that since the hitch pin is located behind the bumper, the winch actually sits real close to the bumper and body. Only problem is that the swing-down tire rack that i'm designing will have to be changed to clear the winch. I'll have to borrow an 8k winch before i build anything though since this 12k is bigger than i really need in back.

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Overland

Observer
well??? how goes the build? got it on the trail yet? any pics? I am in the middle of almost the same thing to my YJ so very curious to see how your liking this setup.

cheers
 

nano151

Observer
Sadly, i haven't been able to work on it these last 2 weekends cuz of family drama and i'll loose this weekend cuz of a baby showers and mother's day.

A few weekends ago I was able to go through my old spare harnesses and started to cut out all of the stock plug ends that'll i'll need. I only stopped because i'll have to decide if i'll use some stock CJ or YJ switches or just go straight to toggle switched for everything.

I then got the snorkel location figured out and I just need to drill out the hole. Good thing is that it won't interfere with the tube fender flares.

I also now own a new to me RCI fuel cell that will sit behind the passengers. I still plan to eventually build a custom fuel cell for under the jeep but i need to get this thing finished.

I also finally got the rear axle centered and welded the perches in. Hopefully i got the angles right. If not, i'll just add shims later. I just need to order some ubolts.

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I also measured and cut down my rear shaft. Just having trouble getting the yolk out of the shaft tubing. Probably just have to keep grinding until i find the edges. You can see in the first picture that once i add the yolk to the axle side, the slip end will move further into the tcase. It'll also open up the spacing between the front ujoint and the tubing. I'll still have to grind away some metal for clearance though. Eitherway this is just temporary so that i can get it on the road.

I am actually considering buying a SYE kit from Tom Woods shaft ($500!! :Wow1: ) cuz it's improve my angles, get rid of the slip and it comes with a CV rear shaft. That'll have to wait until the end of the build for financial reasons.

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nano151

Observer
Forgot to mention that i also picked up a "family style" roll bar to cover the passengers. I'll probably take a day off at work to get caught up with the build.
 

nano151

Observer
Not much of an update since i've only spent an hour on the jeep in the last 3 weeks due to birthdays, babyshowers and rain.

I got the snorkel mounted...

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Also drilled out the holes for the fuel cell. i got the rear seat in but it doesn't match up with the brackets on the fenders that hold the seat in. I'll have to see what the deal is there. Might have the brackets on wrong.

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Oh yeah, i even got the family style rollbar from my house to my mom's. Good thing we live 2 minutes away...

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Mr. D

Adventurer
WoW amazing build
I like the color combo and I think the front square lights will look good.
 

nano151

Observer
Just a small update from this weekend... I refitted the snorkel and it looks like the welded tab is slightly tweeked so I'll have to remove and fix it later. The fuel cell is almost bolted in. Two of the holes are too close to some extra metal under the tub so i'll have to grind a bit to clearance them.

Pulled out the rollbar and installed the family-style bar. Unfortunately the previous owner welded the rear bars to his tub so i had to spend an hour just cleaning it up. I know it's not much of a difference over the other "sport bar" but i feel better knowing that passengers will have some protection. Later on I'll add some crossbars and reinforcement.

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I finally got around to cutting out the yolk from the old driveshaft. The length looks good so now i just need to spin the yolk so the front and rear match and then fully weld it. I also still need to figure out a way to lower the trans and tcase cuz they are angled slightly up from the engine.

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