I recommend adding some sort of stabilizing mount to the top of your fuel cell. Apparently, the fuel moving around has been known to cause the welds holding the mounting tabs to crack. This in turn leads to a fuel leak. I have the same cell mounted the same way, but haven't driven the Jeep yet. My plan is to use angle iron to wrap the upper edges and mount that to the wheel wells.
All Purpose YJ Build...
- Thread starter nano151
- Start date
nano151
Observer
So i actually got some work done on the jeep yesterday with my brother's help.
BRAKES:
I picked up some pre-made brake lines from Autozone to replace the hard lines on the 12bolt and to build an extension from the SS YJ replacement lines. I had to stop short because i need to buy a female to female adapter. I also had to cut the SS line to make this work and SS tubing is so much stronger than regular tubing that my flaring tool is useless. I'll have to buy a better flaring kit now.
FUEL:
I got the parts need to plumb up the entire fuel system but i had to stop short because the tubing is 3/8 SS and my flaring tool sucks. Just need to flare one side of the tubing to fit the AN fitting that will screw on to the Twist-Tite hose which will go through the floor using rubber grommet (still have to buy) then to the 90* ANs on the fuel cell.
DRIVESHAFT:
The temporary rear driveshaft got a new ujoint and doesn't really look too bad for our first attempt. Hopefully, once i lower the tcase an inch, the angles are good enough that this last me some time before i need to upgrade.
STEERING:
I got the PartsMike steering arm installed and we measured and cut down the DOM tubing. Some quick welding, a bit of grinding and paint and i can now turn the wheels!! Just need to get new steering hoses.
My brother Leo (the Coastie)...
Proof that i actually do some of my own welding...
BRAKES:
I picked up some pre-made brake lines from Autozone to replace the hard lines on the 12bolt and to build an extension from the SS YJ replacement lines. I had to stop short because i need to buy a female to female adapter. I also had to cut the SS line to make this work and SS tubing is so much stronger than regular tubing that my flaring tool is useless. I'll have to buy a better flaring kit now.
FUEL:
I got the parts need to plumb up the entire fuel system but i had to stop short because the tubing is 3/8 SS and my flaring tool sucks. Just need to flare one side of the tubing to fit the AN fitting that will screw on to the Twist-Tite hose which will go through the floor using rubber grommet (still have to buy) then to the 90* ANs on the fuel cell.
DRIVESHAFT:
The temporary rear driveshaft got a new ujoint and doesn't really look too bad for our first attempt. Hopefully, once i lower the tcase an inch, the angles are good enough that this last me some time before i need to upgrade.
STEERING:
I got the PartsMike steering arm installed and we measured and cut down the DOM tubing. Some quick welding, a bit of grinding and paint and i can now turn the wheels!! Just need to get new steering hoses.
My brother Leo (the Coastie)...
Proof that i actually do some of my own welding...
so how goes the build? i ended up with 5 weeks off work and was able to work on mine every day. wagoneer leafs in the front and XJ leafs in the back, managed to get 101.5 wheelbase. whats yours at? watching your build here has been part of my inspiration so thanks alot man.
keep the updates coming.
keep the updates coming.
BigAl
Expedition Leader
That thing is a beast
Are you going to tie the rear rollbar mounts down to the frame? With your comp cut, it would be pretty easy. I would also think about a front cage tied to the frame. That beast is tall. Looking at the rolled jeep in the previous posts, you can see the need. I really like to OD green
nano151
Observer
Cool. Do you have a build thread anywhere or a pic of the jeep? I haven't really checked the wheelbase. I'll get a number this weekend. Glad to be of service. I figure with the amount of trouble and work i've gone through, i should post as much info out there for the next guy. Researching info for the build all i could find was partial build threads or incomplete and vague info. When I get a chance to really sit down do a ful right up with all of the pictures.
That thing is a beast
Thats the plan. I would love to get a full blown cage built but for now i'll tie in the stock one, add some cross bars and replace the front bars for sport cage kit that ties into the floor. Trust me, i wanted this to sit lower. The springs are flat so my only option in the future (staying with leafs) is to move my shackle hangers through the frame. That would lower the jeep like 3-4". The day i do that, i'd probably also down size to 36-37 road friendly tires.
well, i wish i could say that the Jeep is drivavble but i've been swamped at work and home for the last few weeks. I also had to leave for training for 2 weeks in Wisconsin so i lost 3 weekends right there.
Today i should be recieving the new aluminum radiator and some new poly bushings to lower the tcase. Won't be able to mount anything until next weekend though. I'm also going to just take the stainless fuel and brake lines to the same shop thats going to make my steering hoses. Even if they charge me $10-20 per flare, it'll still be cheeper than buying a expensive tool i'll probably never use again.
Really, once i have the flaring and hoses done, the radiator mounts welded and finish builing the 1g battery cables, this thing will be drivable. Then i still have to figure out my shock locations and sizes, finish the electrical, build the exhaust, blah, blah blah.
mudd_junkie
New member
Look into a Hack and Tap SYE with a Ford Explorer front driveshaft. Considering your skills it should be a simple and cost effective solution to your driveshaft issue.
BigAl
Expedition Leader
It looks like you could get away with a flat pitman arm. Your drag link looks to be running downhill. I know some old CJs and waggys had flat pitman arms. Glad to see you are doing high steer. I have seen some scary z links
jeepdreamer
Expedition Leader
X2 on the flat pitman arm.. you may get some bump steer off this the way it is? Funny since its the opposite of most folks issues. Check with partsmike for what would work. And I'm sure this is on your "to do" list but that 208 is screaming for protection. One little tap on a rock and that alum/mag case is toast. Keep going... we are watching.
Check with partsmike for what would work. And I'm sure this is on your "to do" list but that 208 is screaming for protection. One little tap on a rock and that alum/mag case is toast. Keep going... we are watching.
nano151
Observer
Yeah, its higher cuz i have a 1inch spacer on the steering arm from back when this was on the Chevy. The pitman arm is new from PartsMike so later down the line i'll have to decide to either remove the spacer or buy a flat pitman arm. No rush though cuz there's way too much to do.
I still have to add a support to the rear to replace the bar that would normall bolt from the block to the side of the tcase. Once i have done, the plan is to add a removable skid plate. Again, not at the top of the list right now.
I still have to add a support to the rear to replace the bar that would normall bolt from the block to the side of the tcase. Once i have done, the plan is to add a removable skid plate. Again, not at the top of the list right now.
nano151
Observer
Now, i should not have expected anything different since this entire build has been one complication after another... the new radiator was to tall. I went with the narrowest universal Summit radiator which happen to be 19.5" tall. I thought this would be fine because of the width. NOPE! The steering box is right in the way.
Since i've wasted way too much time on this (3rd radiator), my brother and i decided to "make this work". Obviously, i won't be running the mechanical fan. Instead i'll run an electric puller on the engine side and a backup pusher on the grill side. Both will be hooked up to switches for water crossings and the main one will be connected to a thermal switch.
We welded some aluminum angle that i bought during my first failed attempt. The radiator was mounted at an angle to clear the steering box and hood. It also lines up the radiatior hoses better than expected. Now that we know that it fits, he'll finish welding the mounts on and i'll finish trimming off the excess from the brackets. I'll also add some aluminum plate from the grill to the top of the radiator to block air from flowing over the radiator instead of through it.
Since i've wasted way too much time on this (3rd radiator), my brother and i decided to "make this work". Obviously, i won't be running the mechanical fan. Instead i'll run an electric puller on the engine side and a backup pusher on the grill side. Both will be hooked up to switches for water crossings and the main one will be connected to a thermal switch.
We welded some aluminum angle that i bought during my first failed attempt. The radiator was mounted at an angle to clear the steering box and hood. It also lines up the radiatior hoses better than expected. Now that we know that it fits, he'll finish welding the mounts on and i'll finish trimming off the excess from the brackets. I'll also add some aluminum plate from the grill to the top of the radiator to block air from flowing over the radiator instead of through it.
so where are ya at now??? as for your research into the build, Pirate has more info on stretched YJ's than you will ever need.
sorry i have been away a while, here is a link to my build. alot of similarities. if you cant access the link you may have to sign up to the site.
http://www.bcjeepclub.ca/index.php?topic=4408.0
also theres lots of info on pirate about "frenching" your leaf hangers to lower the jeep...something maybe in my future as well. i have 28.5" belly clearance with an almost flat skid, its like jumping into a monster truck....i love the ingenuity with the rad instal.
here is a pic of mine.
