Alternative to big $$$ drawer sliders?
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GX470_Prado
Observer
Be careful using wood for both the slide and the "grove"... If you build it tight in the winter (or desert) than in the summer (or Florida) it will be too tight. By using the "Plastic" as the slides you dont have to worry about the relative humidity as much.
As a Cabinet Maker I tell you even at cost runners that over 28" long get expensive quickly... And quality ones that support the weight of your gear and that will last many years get very expensive. And still you will need worry about Sand and grit getting into the "Greased Ball Bearings" that are in the runners. We have not done any for "Overlanding" but we have built drawers and rollout shelves for trucks of Tradesmen and Hobbiest... Many of the "Ball Bearing" slides have run into problems over the years the biggest problems have been overweighted (someone using it as resting post) dirt and rust (from getting wet). Once we started using a simple "plastic" strips as slides we have gotten away from those problems.
For the drawer box itself I suggest using 12mm thick (1/2") "Baltic Birch/Russian Birch" plywood... "True" Baltic/Russian birch plywood should have 8 (sometimes 9) layers for the 12mm (1/2") thick or 12 layers for the 18mm thick which makes it very strong, much stronger than the plywood must of us are used to and those cores usually have very few voids. Both of which make the plywood very "Straight/Flat" and much more rigid when compared to the typical plywood. Also sheet sizes are usually on 60" x 60" instead of the typical 48"x 96".
As a Cabinet Maker I tell you even at cost runners that over 28" long get expensive quickly... And quality ones that support the weight of your gear and that will last many years get very expensive. And still you will need worry about Sand and grit getting into the "Greased Ball Bearings" that are in the runners. We have not done any for "Overlanding" but we have built drawers and rollout shelves for trucks of Tradesmen and Hobbiest... Many of the "Ball Bearing" slides have run into problems over the years the biggest problems have been overweighted (someone using it as resting post) dirt and rust (from getting wet). Once we started using a simple "plastic" strips as slides we have gotten away from those problems.
For the drawer box itself I suggest using 12mm thick (1/2") "Baltic Birch/Russian Birch" plywood... "True" Baltic/Russian birch plywood should have 8 (sometimes 9) layers for the 12mm (1/2") thick or 12 layers for the 18mm thick which makes it very strong, much stronger than the plywood must of us are used to and those cores usually have very few voids. Both of which make the plywood very "Straight/Flat" and much more rigid when compared to the typical plywood. Also sheet sizes are usually on 60" x 60" instead of the typical 48"x 96".
MotoDave
Explorer
I finally found some details on how TruckVault does their drawers. They use a roller flush mounted to the frame under the front of the drawer, and a roller mounted to the inside of the drawer at the back. This makes it pretty simple constuction, since you're just making a box for the drawer and the frame to support the top. I'll post here if I find a source for the parts.
java
Expedition Leader
MotoDave
Explorer
Any pictures or a link to how you used them in a drawer setup?
java
Expedition Leader
Unfortunately no, I didnt take any pics. The drawer rolls on the floor on them. They are recessed into holes on the bottom of the drawer.
quickfarms
Adventurer
McMaster Carr has ball rollers that would work if you put an aluminum strip under the box.
The rear rollers can simply be small cam follower bearings.
How about this?
http://isquint.net/2010/rose-brand-introduces-pallet-master-caster/
The rear rollers can simply be small cam follower bearings.
How about this?
http://isquint.net/2010/rose-brand-introduces-pallet-master-caster/
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KlausVanWinkle
Explorer
x3
I've been using their 36" 250lb slides for my fridge slide. Works great. Doesn't rattle. I'm using two slides per drawer now for my drawer build.
I currently have the single enclosed roller bearings under my drawers but unfortunately because of the weight, the rollers are not working out. The plan now is to make up full length Teflon runners from some used cutting boards that I brought home from work. I really lucked out on this stuff. I've got several pieces 4'-6' long, 0.5"-1" thick, and about 12" wide. I am going to use my router and make a groove in one piece and have the other piece slide inside that groove. My drawers are 6.5' long, 21" wide and 12" high. I have my recovery gear in one and my HVAC/R tools in the other. Hoping to have better results this time around. Anyone else try using this material?
Montana Cruiser
Adventurer
Teflon cutting boards? What are those used for?
NMC_EXP
Explorer
Teflon has poor abrasion and cut/tear resistance.
I believe cutting boards are typically made with high or ultra high molecular weight polyethylene (HMWPE or UHMWPE). This stuff has excellent abrasion & cutting resistance and the coefficient of friction is low.
Regards
Jim
magentawave
Adventurer
I don't see the same side mount bracket for wheels at Harbor Freight but they are very inexpensive and perhaps you could configure something to work? http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?limit=60&p=1&q=wheels
magentawave
Adventurer
Those are cool but do they seem to be holding up to some serious weight so far?
I got these at McMaster, They were $8 ea. Basically a captured bearing.
