Ambulance Camper/ Expedition Rig Conversion FAQ

rlrenz

Explorer
First, congratulations on getting a PL Custom buggy. PL builds an excellent unit. You should be able to contact them for the build data on your particular unit, and also the wiring information.

Pat's totally right -- make haste slowly, and carefully. Take lots of photos as you go, because reassembling something by memory can be challenging.

Whatever you remove may have some value, but mostly to another member. When I started working on mine, I gave the new suction pump and the IV bag warmer to a volunteer fire department - I didn't need them, and they could use them.

Lighting is a whole topic by itself. If you have a separate light bar, it can usually be kept if it only has amber lenses - there isn't much of a market for red/blue lenses, though. Many ambulances we will run into are old enough that they have halogen lighting, both as warning lights and as interior lighting. Every halogen pulls about 50 watts minimum, so each needs about 4 amps (which is why they aren't being used on new ambulances).

Used halogen ceiling lights are worth very little, but decent lenses are worth a few bucks. Everyone wants LED ceiling lights - I was able to pick up the ones I needed for $70/each, versus $300/each retail for TecNiq ambulance lights.

Used red/blue exterior lenses are useless to us, but decent clear lenses can be sold. Entire exterior halogen lights (often Whelen 900 series) lights are being phased out by ambulance dealers & manufacturers, and entire lights show up on ebay for less than $50, new in the box.

Some components have very peculiar values -- the Hoseline company manufactures an "environmental cabinet" for ambulance drug storage. It will hold the set temperature regardless if it has to heat or cool to do so. Hoseline sells them new for $1650, but I found a manufacturer's leftover, new in the box, on ebay, and I got it for $25.

If you decide to gut the interior, it will take time and a lot of work. I decided to modify my interior since I saw no good reason to remove solid cabinets. I may just decide to change the color with an added layer of laminate, but I plan to keep as much of what's there as I can.

Don't be in a big rush to yank out "unneeded" wiring, either. it may be unneeded today, but who knows about tomorrow? Disconnect and tag unneeded wiring, but leave the wire in place if possible. The line that fed my old IV bag warmer will wind up feeding my refrigerator.
 

tgreening

Expedition Leader
Hey guys, picked up an E450 PL Custom a few weeks ago. As I remove ambulance related stuff (inside and out), what is worth trying to sell? Some of this stuff you'll see on ebay and CL, just curious if it's worth the time trying to sell. I have limited space to store.

Thanks!

Ok, first thing you need to do is disregard what that other guy said and send ME the list of stuff.


But seriously, pictures, or it didn't happen. Start a thread, post some shots of your interior, cab and box, along with a list of some of the things you're likely to sell.


(And seriously serious. Pics, list, me....not that other guy. ;). )
 

patoz

Expedition Leader
OK, Tom...

51A7fBhqw%2BL._SX300_QL70_.jpg
 

clarkh

Observer
Thanks guys. I've been brainstorming this for a while. Read all the build threads on here. It's a 2000 and has no LED lighting - except the front light bar was changed at some point and is LED. Just looking to get rid of the ambulance specific stuff right now (light bar, O2 outlets, etc.) All the switches and trim pieces I'll keep around and reuse if possible. Anyone that has something in particular they are looking for, let me know. I'll start a build thread when there is more than lettering removal to show.

Here she is: (Airhorns are awesome!)

20160328_144250.jpg

Would love to get these out of the garage:

20160406_111513.jpg

20160406_111530.jpg

And:

20160406_153840.jpg
 

huskyhauler

Adventurer
Awning Rail Installation Question

I picked up a used Carefree Freedom Wall mount awning on craigslist for $150 today. I already had an awning rail, but have been delaying installing it until I had the awning.

My question is in regards to the strength of the ambulance wall. Can I simply bolt the awning rail to the side of the ambulance using large fender washers in the inside to disperse the load, or should I reinforce the back side of the ambulance walls at all?

The awning is around 60 pounds or so. It's the 9'-10" size.
 
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patoz

Expedition Leader
The awning may only weigh 60 lbs., but don't forget about the additional forces wind blowing against the awning fabric may exert on the system also. I raced sailboats for 10 years and I can tell you that even just a 15 - 20 mph wind against a sheet that size can produce forces you wouldn't normally think possible.

As Ambot mentioned, try to bolt through a stud or the top horizontal plate if at all possible. If you must bolt just through the skin, keep in mind it is only 1/8" aluminum sheet metal. So if you do, back it up with 1/4" - 3/8" thick flat bar and run it from one stud to the next one, and either weld or attach it to the stud with 'L' brackets.

If your walls are open, look at the area where the crew bench seat belts are attached, and that will give you an idea of what I'm talking about.

Better safe than sorry later on! :)
 
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huskyhauler

Adventurer
I'm still trying to figure out how to mount the awning I picked up. It's an older style Carefree Freedom awning (wall mount), and is 10ft long and extends outward 8 feet when deployed. I don't have enough room on the side of the ambulance to install it without the box side door hitting the awning fabric when the door is opened. I'm thinking of mounting it on angle brackets, with the back of the awning bracket bolted to the vertical side of the angle bracket, and the horizontal side of the angle bracket bolted to the roof of the ambulance through the aluminum square tube "studs."

I was able to locate 9 such roof-top studs. However, the studs to do not run the entire way across the ambulance body. They are only about 28 inches long and terminate where the ceiling lighting housings are. The studs all appear to be welded.

Will these roof studs be sufficient to bolt through, or will the forces of a closed awning at highway speeds, or an open awning in a breeze, be too much and break the frame?

Does anyone have any suggestions? I don't want to go the route of a roof top rack to mount the awning to as I don't have any plans to use such a rack for any other reason and don't want to spend the funds on it (this is a budget build).
 

patoz

Expedition Leader
Is yours a home patio cover or an actual RV awning? In other words, does the roller mount on the side of the RV, or is it attached to the outer edge of the fabric and move away from the RV when deployed?

Looking at this photo of your rig, it appears you have the same problem I do, which is not enough room to mount an awning housing between the warning lights and the rain gutter.

7160_681255028554831_1149809195_n_zpshdu5lxvv.jpg


However, it does look like there is room above the rain gutter, and the corners are made up of extruded aluminum that runs all the way from the front to the back. This is a different brand, but they are all build similar.

11-ddc217fd8f.jpg

8-5b2cd369be.jpg


Will these roof studs be sufficient to bolt through, or will the forces of a closed awning at highway speeds, or an open awning in a breeze, be too much and break the frame?
Mounting the housing, or the housing with brackets, anywhere along that edge ridge or on the roof rafters should be just fine. The trick is to distribute the load along the full length, and bolt it in 6-8 places if possible. Since the the end of the closed awning housing is what will be taking the force of the wind when traveling, it will be like a missile moving through the air, so no problem there. In the case of a storm with high wind, hopefully you would be forewarned and have time to stow the awning.

As far as the side door hitting the awning fabric and tearing it, one of these should solve your problem.

Camco 42005 Awning Roller Ball with Screen Door Slide
http://www.amazon.com/Camco-42005-A...sr=8-1&keywords=Camco+awning+door+roller+ball

Camco 42003 Awning Roller with Screen Door Slide
http://www.amazon.com/Camco-42003-A...sr=8-2&keywords=Camco+awning+door+roller+ball
 

huskyhauler

Adventurer
It's a Carefree Freedom awning built for RVs. The awning roll is on the wall side and remains stationary. It does not move out with the edge of the awning when the awning is being extended.

However, since it's a wall mount it needs to mount to a horizontal structure, hence the angle bracket idea.

I have identified 9, 2" roof top members space 10 inches apart in the space that I would mount the awning. My next step is to figure out the corner bracket situation. I'm thinking of using standard galvanized strong ties.

At the moment I have two ideas.

One is with the awning mounted entirely on the roof so that it's flush to the sidewall of the ambulance. This is beneficial as it doesn't extend the width of the ambulance and limits the awning from catching on tree branches and the roof of my house when squeezing it by. However, I will need to figure out a way to get the awning open and closed as the manual crank points nearly straight down. See crude drawing for reference.

20160502_130235_zpsdsb9el1t.jpg


The other idea is to mount the awning on the sidewall so that the bottom half is attached to the reinforced corner, and the top half is attached to a corner bracket that is mounted to the roof. This will allow me easy access to the manual crank, but will indeed extend the width of the ambulance box by about 5 inches on that side. My other concern is being able to access the inside of the reinforced corner in order to get a nut and wrench in there. If I cannot access it, will self tapping screws be sufficient to mount the bottom half of the awning to the reinforced corner so long as the top half is mounted to the corner bracket using bolts?

20160502_130454_zpsfs5rkjlz.jpg
 

Bikersmurf

Expedition Leader
I'd not want to raise the height of the Ambulance any. The dually wheels stick out 4+" and fender +/- 7" so the overall width wouldn't increase.

Height is more of a concern when starting at 8'4" in my opinion.
 

patoz

Expedition Leader
I agree with Bikersmurf, and would not mount it on top like what is shown in drawing #1. That thing will become a branch snatcher for sure!

Mounting it on the side like in drawing #2 has several advantages. It keeps the height profile lower and eliminates snagging branches. Personally, I would not use use the Strong Ties, but instead use one solid stick of 1/8" thick angled aluminum. Not only will this be stronger, it can't possibly rust, and it gives you a way to make a watertight seal between the canopy and the vehicle body. Angled aluminum is a little bit pricey but this is a, 'pay me now or pay me big time later' type thing.

You won't need to bolt it every 10", just every 2' - 3' or so. I would also use stainless steel hardware, because who wants to see brown rust marks running down the side of that pretty party wagon!

In the places where you can't thru-bolt it due to lack of access on the inside, I would use Riv-nuts and at least 1/4-20 bolts or screws coated with blue Loc-tite. Stay away from sheet metal screws if at all possible.

I'm sure you have already found this, but just in case you haven't... http://www.carefreeofcolorado.com/rv-products/rv-products-home.html
 

huskyhauler

Adventurer
I'd not want to raise the height of the Ambulance any. The dually wheels stick out 4+" and fender +/- 7" so the overall width wouldn't increase.

Height is more of a concern when starting at 8'4" in my opinion.

My dually wheels are flush with the box body and the fenders are only an inch or so wide, so the awning would protrude out from the box another three inches or so.
 

rossvtaylor

Adventurer
Hi all,

A new member here, who's been doing lots of reading. There's a ton of great info, but I don't see mention of toilet/potty locations in any of the threads I've read. The kitchen and bed areas are pretty obvious, but what are folks doing for an inside potty (assuming they have one - we've considered just keeping a porta-potty in an outside compartment for those places where it might be needed).

We just bought a medium-duty rig, with a 190" long box, by the way.

Thanks much! And, thanks for all you've provided here so far.

Ross and Kara Taylor
Flagstaff, AZ
 

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