Bikersmurf
Expedition Leader
If I had that much space, I'd want to swap in an extended cab... 
Ambulance Camper/ Expedition Rig Conversion FAQ
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- Start date
patoz
Expedition Leader
With the rear wheels on that thing being that far back, I see your dilemma.
So, to answer your original question about the compartments... No, they are not structural themselves for the most part. Most of them just consist of an individual box with a space between each one.
The part of the box that hangs below the floor level is usually encased in a box tube frame to give it support and handle the weight of the contents of the compartment. Mine uses 1" x 2" tubing, but some use 2" x 2" tubing also.
Moving the wheel well would probably be easy, it's the compartments that would be a pain due to the doors, and getting them to seal again. It could be done and people have done it, it just all depends on your metal working skills and available equipment.
So, to answer your original question about the compartments... No, they are not structural themselves for the most part. Most of them just consist of an individual box with a space between each one.
The part of the box that hangs below the floor level is usually encased in a box tube frame to give it support and handle the weight of the contents of the compartment. Mine uses 1" x 2" tubing, but some use 2" x 2" tubing also.
Moving the wheel well would probably be easy, it's the compartments that would be a pain due to the doors, and getting them to seal again. It could be done and people have done it, it just all depends on your metal working skills and available equipment.
Bikersmurf
Expedition Leader
I'd say if you're up for the task of mounting the box, then moving the wheel well won't be an issue. If not, go back to the RV store and buy a diesel pusher and enjoy the campsites.
Coachgeo
Explorer
"Necessity is the father of invention"..... which goes to say then that "stress if the father of necessity" There for the stress of the fact that I'll never have income to "go ... to the RV store and buy a diesel pusher and enjoy the campsites" means I'll reinvent myself into a fair Ambo Box reinstaller
patoz
Expedition Leader
"Necessity is the father of invention"..... which goes to say then that "stress if the father of necessity" There for the stress of the fact that I'll never have income to "go ... to the RV store and buy a diesel pusher and enjoy the campsites" means I'll reinvent myself into a fair Ambo Box reinstaller
And have a stronger and better built product to boot!
Bikersmurf
Expedition Leader
I think all of us are in the same boat... or we'd just cut a check and pick up a finished product.
huskyhauler
Adventurer
What tire size do you plan on running? From the looks of it the box won't be able to fit that much further down on the frame as the tires are larger than the wheel well.
If you go this route you may as well plan on moving the wheel weels as you're going to have to enlarge them anyway to get the box to sit down low enough to be worth it.
The entire box is constructed of aluminum. The skin is sheet metal and the frame is square tubing. If you can weld aluminum or have someone who can, you shouldn't have an issue moving the wheel well.
The wheel wells themselves aren't rounded. They are three flat pieces welded together. The arched part that you see on the outside of the box is just the skin cut that way. There isn't really any reinforcement around the wheel wells either. All the reinforcement is on the outside of the frame of the box. I'd imagine you could simply cut that portion out, move it back, and reinforce the section where the wheel well used to be and you'd be fine.
Somewhere in this Ambulance FAQ one of the fellow ambo guys posted a photo of an ambulance frame without the skin. Click through the pages and you'll come across it.
Google image search "ambulance construction" and you'll find a bunch of photos.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/tow-rigs-trailers/1010997-yager-e450-ambulance-tow-riv-8.html
http://www.gambervfd.org/apps/public/news/newsView.cfm?News_ID=503
If you go this route you may as well plan on moving the wheel weels as you're going to have to enlarge them anyway to get the box to sit down low enough to be worth it.
The entire box is constructed of aluminum. The skin is sheet metal and the frame is square tubing. If you can weld aluminum or have someone who can, you shouldn't have an issue moving the wheel well.
The wheel wells themselves aren't rounded. They are three flat pieces welded together. The arched part that you see on the outside of the box is just the skin cut that way. There isn't really any reinforcement around the wheel wells either. All the reinforcement is on the outside of the frame of the box. I'd imagine you could simply cut that portion out, move it back, and reinforce the section where the wheel well used to be and you'd be fine.
Somewhere in this Ambulance FAQ one of the fellow ambo guys posted a photo of an ambulance frame without the skin. Click through the pages and you'll come across it.
Google image search "ambulance construction" and you'll find a bunch of photos.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/tow-rigs-trailers/1010997-yager-e450-ambulance-tow-riv-8.html
http://www.gambervfd.org/apps/public/news/newsView.cfm?News_ID=503
Abitibi
Explorer
Hey guys
Thought I'd share what I'm up to in the ambo department these days. It will be on my build thread but since it could apply to most ambos I thought I'd post here as well.
Like most of you I needed a solution for my side lights. Mine were painted over when they decommissioned my ambo so either I bought new lenses and dealt with the average existing lights or came up with a better solution.
I had my idea from the get go but instead of building my own aluminum recessed box I decided to start baking Can't take credit for the idea, just made it work for my needs. .. And I needed 2"depth max to fit between the ambo studs.
This is what i started with, beats building my own!
Only problem is I needed 9"x7" boxes to fit both the lights and the ambo design. I could have kept the baking tray as is (9"x9") but it would have looked funny. So, cut 2" off and re-welded it.
Drilled a few holes for mounting the light, running the wire and to screw it against the body then off to powder coating.
As for lights, I found these nice thin 5" LED's from my favorite light store.
All together and ready to replace my 15 yrs old useless side scene lights
Just need to cut the old lights opening on my ambo a bit larger, apply a new seal and secure in place. Just need a bit more time!
Thought I'd share what I'm up to in the ambo department these days. It will be on my build thread but since it could apply to most ambos I thought I'd post here as well.
Like most of you I needed a solution for my side lights. Mine were painted over when they decommissioned my ambo so either I bought new lenses and dealt with the average existing lights or came up with a better solution.
I had my idea from the get go but instead of building my own aluminum recessed box I decided to start baking
Can't take credit for the idea, just made it work for my needs. .. And I needed 2"depth max to fit between the ambo studs.This is what i started with, beats building my own!
Only problem is I needed 9"x7" boxes to fit both the lights and the ambo design. I could have kept the baking tray as is (9"x9") but it would have looked funny. So, cut 2" off and re-welded it.
Drilled a few holes for mounting the light, running the wire and to screw it against the body then off to powder coating.
As for lights, I found these nice thin 5" LED's from my favorite light store.
All together and ready to replace my 15 yrs old useless side scene lights
Just need to cut the old lights opening on my ambo a bit larger, apply a new seal and secure in place. Just need a bit more time!
patoz
Expedition Leader
Hey guys
Thought I'd share what I'm up to in the ambo department these days. It will be on my build thread but since it could apply to most ambos I thought I'd post here as well.
Like most of you I needed a solution for my side lights. Mine were painted over when they decommissioned my ambo so either I bought new lenses and dealt with the average existing lights or came up with a better solution.
I had my idea from the get go but instead of building my own aluminum recessed box I decided to start baking
Those look good, and I've also thought about doing the same thing, but using comercial stainless warming trays like you find on buffetts in restruants. Are you planning on mounting them with the light housing mounting bracket in the 'top' position? If you do, you're going to seriously limit the amount of down angle you will be able to acheive. If you mount them with that bracket in the 'bottom' position, you'll be able to point them stright down if need be.
Maybe you should post this on the page below also, or at least post a link there to this page or the section on your build thread where you posted it also.
Converting Whelen 900s/Similar Scene lighting to LED?
http://www.expeditionportal.com/for...ing-Whelen-900s-Similar-Scene-lighting-to-LED
Abitibi
Explorer
Thanks for the link Patoz, will do.
When I came up with the idea I wanted to mount the light upside down (for obvious water ingress reason) and hoped I could still angle the light downward. Now that it's all together I can confirm that it ain't gonna happen, not enough room to tilt. That leaves with putting it side up and hope the water seal holds or leaving it as is.
I'll have a better idea of the flood pattern once it's mounted on the box but I'm pretty sure it will be fine without tilt. It's just unusually cold and snowy here so not too inclined cutting holes in my ambo outside in this weather...
Cheers
David
"Another great day ruined by responsibilities"
When I came up with the idea I wanted to mount the light upside down (for obvious water ingress reason) and hoped I could still angle the light downward. Now that it's all together I can confirm that it ain't gonna happen, not enough room to tilt. That leaves with putting it side up and hope the water seal holds or leaving it as is.
I'll have a better idea of the flood pattern once it's mounted on the box but I'm pretty sure it will be fine without tilt. It's just unusually cold and snowy here so not too inclined cutting holes in my ambo outside in this weather...
Cheers
David
"Another great day ruined by responsibilities"
patoz
Expedition Leader
David, I'm finding with my build that for every good reason I find to do something, there always seems to be two reason why it won't work!
Once you get everything mounted and operating, I would love to see a few pics of 'lights off' vs. 'lights on', maybe taken from the top of the vehicle so we can see the coverage area accurately.
Once you get everything mounted and operating, I would love to see a few pics of 'lights off' vs. 'lights on', maybe taken from the top of the vehicle so we can see the coverage area accurately.
Bikersmurf
Expedition Leader
Hey guys
Thought I'd share what I'm up to in the ambo department these days. It will be on my build thread but since it could apply to most ambos I thought I'd post here as well.
Like most of you I needed a solution for my side lights. Mine were painted over when they decommissioned my ambo so either I bought new lenses and dealt with the average existing lights or came up with a better solution.
I had my idea from the get go but instead of building my own aluminum recessed box I decided to start baking
This is what i started with, beats building my own!
Only problem is I needed 9"x7" boxes to fit both the lights and the ambo design. I could have kept the baking tray as is (9"x9") but it would have looked funny. So, cut 2" off and re-welded it.
View attachment 378624
View attachment 378625
Drilled a few holes for mounting the light, running the wire and to screw it against the body then off to powder coating.
As for lights, I found these nice thin 5" LED's from my favorite light store.
All together and ready to replace my 15 yrs old useless side scene lights
Just need to cut the old lights opening on my ambo a bit larger, apply a new seal and secure in place. Just need a bit more time!
Not sure how thick the pan is, but I'd throw a fender washer on the nut side of the pan to help prevent leaks and cracking. It's my understanding that 'work lights' on the side of the vehicle are supposed to be aimed downwards. My scene lights aren't really, but so far so good... it's been out of service for 9 years now and I've not got grief from the police. When I bought it, all the lights were even working
As were the sirens.