Ambulance Camper/ Expedition Rig Conversion FAQ

IdaSHO

IDACAMPER
Let me get this straight...

You are worried about

Weight
wind drag
MPG


And you buy an ambo??

Didnt you read the FAQ? :)
 

Bikersmurf

Expedition Leader
Let me get this straight...

You are worried about

Weight
wind drag
MPG


And you buy an ambo??

Didnt you read the FAQ? :)

Nope, not worried about them, just see no reason to make them even worse for no gain (for my use).

I've got over 25,000 miles on Forest Service Roads in 2WD, and don't need 4WD. I admire U-Joint kits, I just don't need one.
 

Ozrockrat

Expedition Leader
Larger turning radius? NOPE. Try TIGHTER with the 4wd.
Lifting the rig to allow the solid front axle allows for a tighter turning radius.

All of my 4wd ford vans had a worse turning circle than my 2wd versions (2 Quigley and 1 Advanced 4WD). But my 2wd Freightliner has a great turning circle and will stay 2wd for that reason.

Also you forgot the driveline maintenance added with 4WD. You have transfer case with bearings, seals and uni joints. A driveshaft with uni joints, the axles and in some cases the unis/CV's in them. Plus the added unsprung weight affects the level of damping/suspension required.
 

rlrenz

Explorer
Question: I'm working on a type II ambulance. Are the house batteries isolated from the starting batteries? ( 7.3)

Every ambulance I've run into uses the same set of batteries for both starting and ambulance power. I believe the smaller ambulances run two batteries, but MNtal's Horton / Freightliner runs 3 each group 31 batteries, and my Medic Master/Freightliner runs 4 each group 31 batteries. I've heard about some with a charging relay so at least one battery is limited to engine-starting only, but I'm not sure how the GSA KKK standard would apply.
 

Bikersmurf

Expedition Leader
Can't say for sure about your type II.

All the type III Crestline Ambulances I've looked at have the starting batteries isolated from the house Batteries. If you follow the heavy power lead from your alternator, does it go directly to the batteries? How are the batteries connected?

If the batteries are wired together without a solenoid or an isator... They'll all drain together!

I've got two cranking & two house batteries... The banks are isolated till you hit the 'Sure Start' toggle 'button' and then you've got about 3800 cca availible to the starter. :D
 

IdaSHO

IDACAMPER
All of my 4wd ford vans had a worse turning circle than my 2wd versions (2 Quigley and 1 Advanced 4WD). But my 2wd Freightliner has a great turning circle and will stay 2wd for that reason.


Real funny thing is.... is that Advanced 4wd even states on their site TIGHTER turning radius.

http://www.advanced4x4vans.com/conversion.htm

huh!

Also you forgot the driveline maintenance added with 4WD. You have transfer case with bearings, seals and uni joints. A driveshaft with uni joints, the axles and in some cases the unis/CV's in them. Plus the added unsprung weight affects the level of damping/suspension required.

Didnt forget at all.

As I stated, the transfer case and solid front axle of a 1-ton Ford is bullet proof. Regardless of number of components, worrying about them will do you no good. They simply do not fail like you seem to think they do.

You are afterall, running in 2wd the vast majority of the time. So why WOULD they fail? They arent even spinning!! What they are do is sleeping, ready to be there when you need them most.

Unsprung weight effecting suspension dampening? Maybe a bit. But I also see the solid front axle as a great method of lowering the COG :victory:
 

IdaSHO

IDACAMPER
Not according to the MFG.

That is assuming, afterall, that you are running down the highway with the hubs unlocked and the transfercase in 2wd :sombrero:

If we happened to live in a world without locking hubs, Im sure they would give it a fluid change interval.


And the only reason the rear axle (full floater) has a fluid change interval is because the of the wheel bearings.
They share the same fluid the diff does.
 

phenopd

Observer
I'll have to run down those wires. This ambulance has 3 house batteries. I was powering the water pump off of the factory rear a/c wire loom, then started wondering about draining the starting batteries. Not good. This ambulance has a separate a/c so those wires weren't needed. However, I don't want them to run of of the starting batteries.
 

rlrenz

Explorer
With three batteries, I suspect that they are probably all in parallel to both power the module and provide starting power. In my own case, I'm going to install a separate deep-cycle battery just for the refrigerator, water pump, reading lights, etc. The deep cycle will be charged both by a dedicated 120 volt charger, and by a Xantrex 15 amp Echo-Charger while the engine is running.
 

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