Ambulance Camper/ Expedition Rig Conversion FAQ

[patoz]

Man, they did a real hack job mounting that switch box under the seat didn't they?

In your second picture, the flat 3-conductor wire that has had the male 120 VAC plug cut off of it, goes directly to the block heater. The white (yellow in Tom's picture) female 120 VAC receptacle normally goes to the switch under the seat and then is connected to the male shore power inlet in some fashion, if not directly.

Glad you found the A/C valves. It makes the job a whole lot easier.

 

[tgreening]

I only tried a couple ins providers because, well, that's all I use. They all base their coverage over what the vin tells them and the vin told them that my e350 was commercial and that's the only way they'd insure it. As a matter of fact they told me I had to remove any rv stuff, which didnt make a whole lot of sense. Didn't really matter to me since it was cheap anyway.

 

[huskyhauler]

Man, they did a real hack job mounting that switch box under the seat didn't they?

In your second picture, the flat 3-conductor wire that has had the male 120 VAC plug cut off of it, goes directly to the block heater. The white (yellow in Tom's picture) female 120 VAC receptacle normally goes to the switch under the seat and then is connected to the male shore power inlet in some fashion, if not directly.

Glad you found the A/C valves. It makes the job a whole lot easier.

I do have an auto-switch that seamlessly converts from shore power to generator power and vice-verse, would that result in the manual heater block switch being removed?

 

[patoz]

I do have an auto-switch that seamlessly converts from shore power to generator power and vice-verse, would that result in the manual heater block switch being removed?

Normally, the block heater is powered by shore power because, (1) the ambulance is usually plugged in when back at the station to maintain the batteries, and (2) the block heater is something that needs to stay on continuously during very cold weather, so the vehicle is ready to go at a moments notice. Running the Block Heater off of the generator is not practical unless shore power was not available, and then only for short periods.

The purpose of the Block Heater Switch is so it can be deactivated during warmer weather when it's not needed.

Since the plug was cut off of the Block Heater cord and the switch is gone, it looks like the whole system was disabled for some reason.

 

[huskyhauler]

Normally, the block heater is powered by shore power because, (1) the ambulance is usually plugged in when back at the station to maintain the batteries, and (2) the block heater is something that needs to stay on continuously during very cold weather, so the vehicle is ready to go at a moments notice. Running the Block Heater off of the generator is not practical unless shore power was not available, and then only for short periods.

The purpose of the Block Heater Switch is so it can be deactivated during warmer weather when it's not needed.

Since the plug was cut off of the Block Heater cord and the switch is gone, it looks like the whole system was disabled for some reason.

After re-reading your initial reply, it appears I misunderstood you. I never noticed that flat three prong wire! It all makes sense now and appears the block heater connection was simply deleted. After all, Western Washington RARELY sees temps below 20 degrees. However, it's strange that a Fire Dept would remove an "amenity" unless it failed and wasn't necessary and didn't warrant the cost of repair, or the system was modified and somewhere along the way and was simply disconnected and left for dead since it wasn't needed.

Is there a reason a plug would present in the engine bay? It it in case shore power is not available or the system is inoperable one could over-ride it manually with an extension cord?

 

[patoz]

Normally, the male plug that was cut off would be plugged into that white female receptacle, which was installed by the ambulance builder. These are Type III Ambulances and are built on what is called, a 'Van Cutaway Chassis'. Other than the additional Ambulance warning lights, heavy duty alternator, larger radiator, etc., the whole cab and engine is the same as a regular van.

The engine block heater and it's black flat cord with the male plug are Ford OEM parts that are used on any van with that engine. Since the everyday citizen doesn't normally have a shore power provision on his van, he would have to use an ordinary extension cord to get power to the block heater. Of course you could do the same thing with an ambulance, but more than likely you would drive off and forget to unplug it in an emergency situation.

 

[kcernest]

Just to clarify, for the heater line you used a coolant filter to reconnect the lines to complete the cycle, correct?

True.

Dead end wouldn't work so well I don't think.

 

[sub-terminal]

Hey what are you guys using for jacks to change tires?

 

[patoz]

Hey what are you guys using for jacks to change tires?

Most anything will work on the front since it's still OEM, but for the rear the only thing I have found is a big hydraulic bottle jack, but that was in the driveway. I don't know what would work off-road if you were in deep sand or mud, since you have to reach so far under there to get to the axle or frame.

If you had a steel bumper on the rear with jack points, a high lift jack would probably work, but it would rip the aluminum body to shreds.

 

[Grabow]

Any idea what kind of mileage I could expect from a 96 F350 dually 4x4 ambulance with a 7.3 powerstroke? I know it would vary with box size, weight, gear, etc. Just looking for a realistic avg.

 

[EXPO365]

Omg! I'm so happy to find this thread! I just started my first Ambo build and this will help tons! Thanks!

 

[patoz]

Omg! I'm so happy to find this thread! I just started my first Ambo build and this will help tons! Thanks!

I should have pointed it out to you last night when we were talking. Sorry...

 

[EXPO365]

I should have pointed it out to you last night when we were talking. Sorry...

No worries dude! I guess I have some homework for tonight now.

 

[EXPO365]

Side topic, what has everyone done in regards to registration and insurance? For simplicity sake I first registered it as a commercial vehicle and insured it as such as well. My limited research hasn't shown any real positives in having it retitled or insured as an RV. While commercial insurance is relatively cheap, are there any benefits or drawbacks to switching over to RV title and insurance? Washington requires an inspection from State Patrol with a certain number of permanent add-ons to suit RV requirements.

I ask because if there is a sizable advantage to going the RV route I might leave the aircon unit in place to help satisfy a re-title requirement before deleting the unti.

Mine was previously registered as a Wagon lol. So we just left it alone. We just have regular plates on it

 

[EXPO365]

The best part is that here in Jersey pre 96 Diesels are inspection exempt!