AmbuLand build thread

[Bikersmurf]

I called Hypertech... they of course tried to scare me off using a 15+ year old tuner saying that if it dies partway through the process it'll kill the PCM. I'm not sure if that's just a scare tactic or not.

If the tune wasn't returned to original on the last vehicle it was used on, it's a brick. However, if it was then it'll store my current tune so it can be restored and then program in a new one. I'm not sure if it's worth the risk... or if Hypertech just wants me to spend $450 on a new tuner, which will never happen.

 

[Abitibi]

I take it it's a used one? Can't you test drive it to make sure it works before paying for it??

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[Abitibi]

And the madness has started! The engine is coming out for a well worth refreshing & upgrade. A good clean up won't hurt either!!!

 

[Bikersmurf]

I take it it's a used one? Can't you test drive it to make sure it works before paying for it??

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The seller said we could install the program before buying and pay if it works. The risk is that if it fails part way through, it can destroy the computer. Then I’m stuck at his place in Sooke... it’d need a tow &/or a new computer to move again.

Equally bad is that it could brick it if I ever try to change the tune. Given it’s a 15+ year old tuner, and they sometimes did it even when they were new... I’m not sure I’d trust it.

I’ve got old electronic cameras I use and trust, but should they fail I loose the pictures... but not dire consequences. If I had a spare pcm then I’d have little to loose and everything to gain. Without one, I risk frying my pcm to the point where even a new flash won’t help.

The manufacturers tech support says don’t do it, the programmer is out of date and can’t be updated. I’m leaning towards saving my money for a newer one, or just leaving things well enough alone since drivability is good and the only thing I’d really like to change is when it shifts in and out of overdrive.

Most times it’s fine, just at certain speeds and loads, it wants to lug along at 1200 rpm when it really needs to downshift. I can turn overdrive off, but even then, shifts aren’t optimized for a 9500 lb rig. The ‘98 Dodge I had also adjusted all the other shift points when I turned off overdrive. In a perfect world all the shift points would be optimized for the heavy brick it is.

All that said, it’s Nicer to drive around town, on the highway, or even on the freeway, than our newer compact car, minivans, and even a new RAV4 I rented.

 

[Bikersmurf]

And the madness has started! The engine is coming out for a well worth refreshing & upgrade. A good clean up won't hurt either!!!

Seeing it’s front end tore open like that is triggering my PTSD .

Be sure to check your body cross member for cracks before reinstalling it. I had to tear in that deep to weld it back into one piece.

You likely already know that, if you remove the coolant & A/C lines from the front edge of the firewall and then move the harness, you’ll gain a couple inches of clearance. I’m mentioning it for other readers who are now gasping in awe or whimpering in a corner.

 

[iggi]

I'd pass. Risk sounds higher than the reward.

The seller said we could install the program before buying and pay if it works. The risk is that if it fails part way through, it can destroy the computer. Then I’m stuck at his place in Sooke... it’d need a tow &/or a new computer to move again.

Equally bad is that it could brick it if I ever try to change the tune. Given it’s a 15+ year old tuner, and they sometimes did it even when they were new... I’m not sure I’d trust it.

I’ve got old electronic cameras I use and trust, but should they fail I loose the pictures... but not dire consequences. If I had a spare pcm then I’d have little to loose and everything to gain. Without one, I risk frying my pcm to the point where even a new flash won’t help.

The manufacturers tech support says don’t do it, the programmer is out of date and can’t be updated. I’m leaning towards saving my money for a newer one, or just leaving things well enough alone since drivability is good and the only thing I’d really like to change is when it shifts in and out of overdrive.

Most times it’s fine, just at certain speeds and loads, it wants to lug along at 1200 rpm when it really needs to downshift. I can turn overdrive off, but even then, shifts aren’t optimized for a 9500 lb rig. The ‘98 Dodge I had also adjusted all the other shift points when I turned off overdrive. In a perfect world all the shift points would be optimized for the heavy brick it is.

All that said, it’s Nicer to drive around town, on the highway, or even on the freeway, than our newer compact car, minivans, and even a new RAV4 I rented.

 

[Abitibi]

That chip sounded alright at first especially at that price but now that you added all these details I have to agree with Ian, no support is one thing but all the risks you mentioned would make me save my money for something I could rely on...

On another story... my engine is OUT!!! And so are the injectors, cups, turbo... My injectors were actually still in very good conditions, none of the seals were dry or damaged so the injectors may have been replaced by the ambulance service prior to my purchase. Regardless, they are getting replaced! Turbo showed signs of wear but it's getting rebuilt as well.

I also realized the shop that did my safety inspection so I could register my ambo as a RV butchered my downpipe! What a bunch of morons! They said the pipe was leaking and had to be fixed, I never expected this and my fault for not opening the doghouse at the time. I have no idea if that sleeve will survive on the long run or not but I'm not impressed! What y'a think, will it be an issue?

 

[java]

Should be a flex join there no?

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[Abitibi]

Should be a flex join there no?

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Don't think I've ever seen flex joint on a stock or aftermarket 4" downpipe for the 7.3, never seen one anyway unless I misunderstand what you mean?

 

[java]

Don't think I've ever seen flex joint on a stock or aftermarket 4" downpipe for the 7.3, never seen one anyway unless I misunderstand what you mean?

I totally saw that picture wrong... Thought that was the up pipes sitting there still. Sorry!

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[iggi]

Impressive work @Abitibi . How long did it take you from start to engine out? Unless I missed it, you didn't raise the cab?

 

[Abitibi]

Engine came straight out from the front and it took a full day.

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[Abitibi]

We are moving ahead! This is when you realize having a great friend with all the tools and knowledge comes at no price!!!

Those valley engine can sure trap a lot of crap, lots of cleaning up was needed!

The new single shot and larger injectors/cups are now installed & the valve covers with new style gaskets are back in place.

Oil cooler was all cleaned up and new seals installed. I think those often get overlooked and can cause major issues if not looked after.

New IPR, CPS & ICP sensors.

HPOP had a small leak so it got removed, cleaned up with new seal.

New International up-pipes attached.

We are re-doing all the fuel lines and deleting the fuel bowl (regulated return). Now fuel lines will be going to the 4 ends of the heads instead of just 2, along with the HPX cross-over.

Turbo is now rebuilt with 360° bearing and GTP38 turbine and Riffraff compressor wheel. I got really lucky and when we took it to get tested at a turbo shop the alignment was spot on!

Also cleaned up and painted the engine bay, now was the time!!!

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[Ozrockrat]

The International pipes are an essential modification in my opinion. The amount of power loss on mine from due to wear/leakage there was considerable.

I suggest you wrap those pipes while you have easy access unless you are in a salted road area. Makes a lot of difference to the noise level.

 

[Abitibi]

I'm glad to hear the money spent on those pipes will pay off. Tape will be kept in mind, might have to pick some up locally.



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