Another military trailer build

[LikeABoss]

The technical manual for these trailers states 4200 lbs total weight, with a 420 lb tongue weight with the HMMWV tires. The M1101 trailers were derated to be used with lighter vehicles but were identical to the M1102.

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Thanks. Yeah, I saw that. I talked to an engineer at Schutt last week who was very helpful. I told him my specs and he said the chassis including drawbar are fine as is the torsion setup. He said they have tested these for military applications at 5500 lbs which included needing to be dropped loaded from 4 feet in the air and driven over courses with 12"x12" railroad ties at 30mph. The one upgrade they did for this weight and abuse was add a center axle tube support. He even emailed me a diagram of it. I plan to do something like it as well as beef up the drawbar when I convert the surge brakes to electric. The chassis is already considerably stronger than stock with the camper body bolted on it. I think that I'm good to go after talking to him.

 

[LikeABoss]

I decided to modify the tongue and get rid of the surge brakes and clunky jack.

The existing drawbar is 3.5x2.5" 0.25 wall steel. It spans the front 3 frame crossbars on the trailer. The 2 angle bars are the same size and span 2 frame crossbars. The main drawbar and 2 angle supports are tied together top and bottom with huck bolts and plate. There are also 2 flat aluminum pieces on the sides. In the end the main drawbar measures 3.5 x 3.

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I found a 4 x 4" 0.25 wall square tube fit over well - coaxed on with a sledge. I used a piece 24" long. I notched the end to fit a 3" channel to which a pintle ring or regular ball hitch can bolt. I notched it so it doesn't stick out as I wanted a McHitch for the top. The McHitch needs to bolt close to the end to allow rotation.



I welded angle supports from the 4x4 to the airlift location (an idea I found on the forum). The tube size matches the tube on the trailer (2.5 x 2.5 0.25 wall). The end result is very strong I believe.

 

[LikeABoss]

I bolted on the 6 metric ton McHitch after a coat of POR15. It is a big chunk of metal and looks well made. I bolted it on with four 5/8 grade 8 bolts. So far I hooked it to the truck but haven't pulled with it yet. Taking it on and off is very easy. I went with a drop on rather than their automatic option as it just seems like it would be stronger although maybe not true.

I can now pull with McHitch, pintle or ball hitch. I put on an Ark XO jack which is very nice. I need to find a cleaner way of attachment though.

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[LikeABoss]

Next up is the brakes. I've been debating over all electric vs electric over hydraulic given it is already set up with hydraulic drums. It seems hydraulic is the way to go for stopping power. I also like the idea of not having electric under water in the event I cross a low spot. I think I will get an actuator and go electric over hydraulic drum. The ultimate would be electric over hydraulic disc. I can upgrade to this later if wanted and hopefully retain the same actuator just by removing the restriction in the master cylinder.

 

[LikeABoss]

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[JPShooter]

I may be mistaken, but when I converted my M1101 from surge to electric over hydraulic I seem to remember the folks at E-trailer telling me that the unit for drum vs disk is a lower pressure. So if you get the electric over hydraulic actuator for drums and later want to go disc, you will need a newer higher pressure actuator.

I could be mis-recalling, so do check on this, but that's what I remember.

P.S. Awesome work! Your fabrication skills are extraordinary!

Oh yeah, would like to know what you think of the XO Jack over time.

 

[LikeABoss]

I may be mistaken, but when I converted my M1101 from surge to electric over hydraulic I seem to remember the folks at E-trailer telling me that the unit for drum vs disk is a lower pressure. So if you get the electric over hydraulic actuator for drums and later want to go disc, you will need a newer higher pressure actuator.

I could be mis-recalling, so do check on this, but that's what I remember.

P.S. Awesome work! Your fabrication skills are extraordinary!

Oh yeah, would like to know what you think of the XO Jack over time.

Thanks! You are correct. Drums need about 1000psi and disc 1500. I have read many lower pressure actuators can be converted to higher just by removing a spring in the master cylinder. I have decided not to chance it though and just get the high pressure actuator and the disc conversion.

Did you stick with the drum or go disc? I can't tell which disc kit to get. There are several in the 8x6.5 bolt pattern. They appear to fit different spindle/bearing sizes. I may need to pull it apart before ordering parts.

 

[LikeABoss]

For anyone needing parts, the inner bearing is #25580 and outer is #14125A. Etrailer has a few disc options available. So far it seems like the axle is built with 7000lb parts which bodes well for the load.

 

[LikeABoss]

Disc brakes are up and running. They work awesome. This particular actuator works with my factory controller but not all will. The parts below are what is needed for a disc conversion for a Schutt trailer.


K2HR712E Kodiak Disc Brake Kit - 13" Hub/Rotor - 8 on 6-1/2 - E-Coat - 7,000 lbs

BK3-200 Bearing Kit, 14125A/ 25580 Bearings, 10-36 Seal

K71-651 Dexter Electric Over Hydraulic Brake Actuator - 1,600 psi

34-285 Dexter Breakaway Kit - 9 amp/hour

 

[JPShooter]

Did you stick with the drum or go disc? I can't tell which disc kit to get. There are several in the 8x6.5 bolt pattern. They appear to fit different spindle/bearing sizes. I may need to pull it apart before ordering parts.

I stuck with the drums since I'm just doing a rack with RFT and gear in the trailer type setup. I don't believe I will get over 3500lbs gross on my rig (M1101) and drums should be just fine for that. These trailers are so over built!

 

[VicMackey]

I have seen that trailer before

 

[LikeABoss]

I stuck with the drums since I'm just doing a rack with RFT and gear in the trailer type setup. I don't believe I will get over 3500lbs gross on my rig (M1101) and drums should be just fine for that. These trailers are so over built!

Drums will be fine for sure. I would have done the same if it wasn't for needing a decision on the actuator. I didn't want to buy two if I changed my mind down the road. When they rate these trailers, they are definitely planning for abuse and go low.

 

[LikeABoss]

I have seen that trailer before

View attachment 406627

That was my blueprint exactly. Just need to bolt on the tracks now.

 

[LikeABoss]

Photobucket seems to want me to subscribe in order to post now and the site turns attachments on their side.

Wired in the rear upper LEDs. Rather than splice them in, I ran a separate circuit. I still need to add my kryptec to the rear.



Filled in the pattern on this side.