Another Tacoma Build (Brian's 2015 DCLB)

brianjwilson

Some sort of lost...
Long weekend! I didn't get a chance to install the solar before we left. We spent the weekend at the coast "camped" on family property. We were plugged in, so no real comments on battery or charging capacity. The ride is great overall. You can feel the weight back there but handling is way better than my f150 was with a camper. Very confident and comfortable. Plenty of power to pass on hills, but some transmission hunting at 60mph or so. The new gears should keep the trans back in its powerband and prevent this.

The camper is super comfortable. Much nicer and roomier than I expected. Our daughter slept with us which was mostly uneventful, aside from here wanting to play with everything the first night. I bought a king sized RV superbag which is really convenient. Since no bedding can stay on the main bed with the camper closed, this means making a bed is incredibly easy with the superbag, as the sheets are velcroed in. Just pull it off the dinette and throw it on the bed. Done. We used the outside shower for my daughter at the beach, very nice. The fridge and freezer seems to maintain steady temps even at home where it's warm. Ice is hard and ice cream is soft!

Overall we are very pleased so far.

Once we got home Sunday I decided to install the solar. I'm using 2 x 100 watt renology flexible panels, and 2 x 50 watt panels for a total of about 12lbs. Why not 3 x 100w panels? The camper has yakima racks. I want to be able to mount stuff on the roof (cargo box or snow boards etc) without shading the panels. Most cargo boxes need a spacing of around 30". If I used 100 watt panels I would need to span over 4', too far. Currently the left rear of the roof is clear. I can mount a 16" tall by 24" wide box flush with the drivers side, and none of the panels would be shaded when the sun is more than 45 degrees above the horizon from any angle. And the roof vents wouldn't be blocked. I used mc4 branch connectors to bottle everything down to 2 wires. But I don't love it. The panels have leads coming off in two directions. And if you cut their leads off it voids the warranty. I need to tidy up the wires in a couple spots to they are less likely to snag a branch.

The controller is a blue sky 3000i MPPT controller. It is digital and programmable. Much more tolerant to shading than a PWM controller. A few minutes ago I went outside and two panels were completely shaded, and still charging at 6 amps. The most I've observed today was 11 amps, but I expect I should be able to see 14 at least in bulk charge. It was in absorbtion mode most of the day at 14.4 volts even with the blue sea ACR disconnected all day.











Hmm what else... I removed the decals. I measured ride height and it is dead even left to right. The fender gap is 1" more in back than in front. The timbrens are only compressed about 3/8", and they can compress over 3" total. Lots of time planning and obsessing seems to have paid off so far.
 
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CuStOm

Adventurer
Where did you get the panels Brian and how did you mount them? Just use sikaflex caulking or 3M tape? I am considering doing one 100W panel on my RTT.

Epic build man.
 

brianjwilson

Some sort of lost...
The panels are from renology. I ordered them and most things on Amazon, for the 2 day shipping with prime.

I found a lot of guys gluing them down with 3m 4000 adhesive. I was apprehensive about doing this in case I needed to remove a bad panel of change positions etc. The aluminum roof has a very thin skin. Instead I'm using 2" wide industrial strength velcro with adhesive backing around the entire base, with one strip down the middle of the 100 watt panels. Hopefully it works! I don't have any concern of the velcro coming apart but I suppose the glue could get too hot and give up. I did glue a 1/2" bead down the front of the most forward panel (using 3m 4000) to keep air from getting under it. Time will tell how it holds up.

This morning the camper battery was at 12.6 volts after running the fridge and ceiling fan all night. I was sitting in the camper when the solar controller kicked on, at about 2 amps at 6:30 am with overcast skies. Shortly after, I heard the "clunk" of the blue sea ACR under the hood as it sensed the voltage increase from the charging, and connected all three batteries. Pretty cool to see it all work together.

I took my daughter to the zoo, and happened to park on a slope with the panels aiming toward the low morning sun. The solar controller was indicating 14.4 amps charging to the battery bank. ;)
 

shmabs

Explorer
Brian,

Just wanted to stop in and say hello. The truck and camper look like a great solution for you and the family.

Fly safe!

Mike
 

brianjwilson

Some sort of lost...
Brian,

Just wanted to stop in and say hello. The truck and camper look like a great solution for you and the family.

Fly safe!

Mike

Thanks Mike!
We think it will be a great solution as well.



Here is the next project...


I'm worn out already, hoping this one goes relatively smooth. Sure wish I had AC in the garage though.
I haven't had a chance to look at mounting solutions for the compressor so there is a chance that the third member and front diff may get installed this week, awaiting installation of the compressor and the final wiring and plumbing to the switches and lockers. Can't wait to be "done" for a while. After this break, I have one more two week break from work before my 6 week vacation to get everything mostly dialed in. I was going to order a new awning but I couldn't put off a new convertible seat for my daughter any longer. I guess I'll wait until I get my core charge back from the differentials to figure out what to do.
 

Adventurous

Explorer
You sure aren't wasting time getting this thing to where you want it huh? Not that I disagree with that philosophy, might as well enjoy the truck as you want it for as long as possible.
 

cam-shaft

Bluebird days
Getting it done buddy:) very nice Brian!
I wonder if you could put the solar wires in some type of conduit box? Low profile so that they don't shade panels. Just depends where you go though, but it seems I always end up with broken little branches sticking out of my roof rack in the NW territories. In reality it may not look good but some good quality tape over the top of them would work. Anything to stop the snag
Cameron
 

Frosty_1

Adventurer
Brian,

Nice truck and camper! I have a 2015 2500HD/Hawk combo that I got from American RV. Also put the two Renology panels on my roof. To make solar install a bit cleaner, I made a junction box and removed the stock plug from the roof. Hardwired everything together using a grounding strip I cut in half and epoxied in the junction box. Water-tight strain fittings seal all the leads into the box. There is a guy on WTW who did something similar. I took a chance by cutting the factory connectors, so we'll see how that turns out. I plan on posting a build thread over on WTW when I get a moment, but so far it works great!

f.
 

Super Doody

Explorer
Brian,

Awesome build! Makes me regret selling my supercharged taco with Donahoe suspension. I now have a tundra dcab with 2015 Hawk with side dinette. I haven't done anything to my FWC yet but next mod is solar. Why did you choose to go with 300W of solar and Blue sky MPPT controller? I'm thinking of going with the renology flex panels mostly for weight but still undecided on the MPPT controller.

Jim
 

cobblecrazy

Adventurer
Hey Brian, the build is looking good. My next purchase will probably be the sliders from Wheelers, but I also might see what Relentless Fabrication can do for me.

On the subject of the top box, just wanted to give some input. I've run the Yakima Skybox 16 on mine. I found moving it just slightly forward (and to the side to keep it out of the way of my roof fan) made it a little easier to open the camper top. I like the security of the lockable top box, and keeping things out of the elements, but it does come at a price. I found it effected my fuel mileage about 3-5 mph, and, unless you're going to take everything out each time, it can make lifting the top a little more of a challenge (much more so for my wife - and lowering speed can definitely increase with more weight up there).

My main cargo seems to be my bikes and I had the same issues with fuel and just getting to them on top of the camper. I did some looking around and found a decent cargo tray made by Rola. It's rated to 600 lbs., made of real sturdy steel, and they also make bike attachments for it (although they work better with the Rola carrier with the square tubes). I ordered their light kit as well as it easily plugs into my trailer plug and gives me an extra set of brake/turn on the back. As an added extra it makes for a great step out the back of the camper. I had been using a normal hitch bike carrier set for 4 bikes but with two of the trays removed. It worked great for the bikes, but you could not fully open the door with two bikes on, and it was interesting to say the least to step out of the camper onto the portable step I use. The tray is sturdy enough to step directly out the back then down onto the steps (the only thing is I removed the license plate crossbar so I would not trip over it). With the one bike I can still get into the back of the camper, although the door doesn't fully swing open the tray makes for a much nicer platform to step up onto. I have been running two bikes on the tray, and I have room for the 1000w generator and some other odds and ends like camp chairs. I can still get to the gas, but it also doesn't take long to get the bikes off for total access to the camper.

Moving the stuff to the rear tray has equated to an increase in fuel mileage (compared to the top box, or the bikes on top). I did a 1200 mile trip just a few weeks ago, and I was averaging 17-18mpg with a top at about 21mpg.

Here are a few pics




The mat was a Home Depot buy that made the step out a little nicer and is the non slip variety for when it gets wet (the wires you see in the pic were before I got them tucked in and secured along the frame).

 
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cobblecrazy

Adventurer
I'm also looking at this roof rack for the cab of the truck. I like the integrated fairing and the side panels that may aid in pushing the wind around and not let it beat directly onto the camper (it I can get 1-2mpg increase I'd be happy). The guy is out of the Salt Lake City area so I may be taking a trip over to see how it will fit. http://www.prinsudesignstudio.com/#!tacoma-cabrac/chjh
 

brianjwilson

Some sort of lost...
Getting it done buddy:) very nice Brian!
I wonder if you could put the solar wires in some type of conduit box? Low profile so that they don't shade panels. Just depends where you go though, but it seems I always end up with broken little branches sticking out of my roof rack in the NW territories. In reality it may not look good but some good quality tape over the top of them would work. Anything to stop the snag
Cameron

The solar wiring I'm sure will get revisited. I do have a plastic combiner box but I was pressed for time. Since I can't cut the leads off the panels it leaves me with limited options. The wires are held by some plastic clips and dabs of 3m 4000 adhesive in spots, but needs more. I have eterabon tape that I may use. Definitely need something to help prevent snags.

Brian,

Nice truck and camper! I have a 2015 2500HD/Hawk combo that I got from American RV. Also put the two Renology panels on my roof. To make solar install a bit cleaner, I made a junction box and removed the stock plug from the roof. Hardwired everything together using a grounding strip I cut in half and epoxied in the junction box. Water-tight strain fittings seal all the leads into the box. There is a guy on WTW who did something similar. I took a chance by cutting the factory connectors, so we'll see how that turns out. I plan on posting a build thread over on WTW when I get a moment, but so far it works great!

f.

I need to post some stuff on WTW too. Just haven't had a free moment. I'll look for yours.

Brian,

Awesome build! Makes me regret selling my supercharged taco with Donahoe suspension. I now have a tundra dcab with 2015 Hawk with side dinette. I haven't done anything to my FWC yet but next mod is solar. Why did you choose to go with 300W of solar and Blue sky MPPT controller? I'm thinking of going with the renology flex panels mostly for weight but still undecided on the MPPT controller.

Jim

I decided on the panels for light weight and low profile. I wanted mppt because of the increased output, especially with partial shade and poor weather. I like the blue sky controller because it is fully programmable and has digital readings. I had to decide on something so that's what I went with. ;)
 

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