Another VW Bus thread

[MTVR]

Dreadlocks, that radiator is probably not big enough for whatever you're planning to do- those little radiators are designed to work with electric water pumps and electric fans, to cool down the engines of rear-engined NHRA Super Comp (8.90 index) dragsters with the engine shut off, as the car is towed from the finish line back to the pits, as it sits in the pits between rounds, and as it is towed back to the starting line for the next round. As soon as the engine starts, the cooling system is fighting a losing battle, until the engine is shut off again at the finish line and the process starts all over again...

But your idea is sound. Find a radiator that IS big enough, and an electric fan system capable of pushing or pulling enough air, and you're good to go...

 

[MTVR]

I've always liked the GR2 shocks- they cost nothing, and they can really spruce up an old car...

 

[dreadlocks]

oh I'm pretty sure it'll be enough if its front mounted with actual airflow on it.. its getting a 110hp 4cyl diesel engine that could run just fine off a Honda Prelude "half sized" radiator, which is roughly the same dimensions, just not as thick of a core or a dual pass radiator like that one.. and the bottom vertical bosses are ideal because I have to build a shroud behind it to force air down and not through the cab..

now if I was doing an underbelly rad it'd have to be huge, like V8 truck sized.. but honestly the radiator I'd get off the front of a watercooled bay is not significantly larger.

edit, here's a photo showing the size of that radiator mocked up.. really cant get much bigger, any taller and im into the fresh air vents. any wider and im outside the frame rails and into the lights and dash.. the OEM Grille cover is not as wide as this damn tire is:


My plan was to angle cut a square open just the size of the radiator core, peel back and fold the left and right sides so I can attach rear shroud to em.. bolt radiator to the front skin and put some rigid coolant lines coming out the bottom that do most of the supporting off the frame rails.. duct the air back out the bottom with some sheet steel and cover up the monstrosity all painted black behind the OEM grille.

 

[Sneaks]

I’ve seen TJ, Gen 1 Ram, and 3.6l Caravan radiators used successfully as belly radiators and one guy who had a 2 core generic “racing radiator” from Summit up front with a Mexi-nose and a 3.4l Chevy out back. Jake Raby - rumor has it as he keeps things pretty close to his vest - uses dual Cayman radiators out back.
Dreads, sounds like you might be familiar with FastMCs former bus “Clyde.” He did just about the same thing with his nose..yes 091 and if I go VAG, seems to me the Mexican Bay setup is a no-brainer. I know a guy in KS used the Mex bell housing and bar with a TDI, though he went with a belly radiator. Vibration and heat has been brutal on the #4 bearing and slider, think he’s on his 2nd or 3rd rebuild. There a guy who figures out how to reverse the 2.0 gas motor and use it with a Passat transaxle. You can flip the Passat trans but lose a lot of ground clearance, same with a Subugears. When winter hits I think I’ll start doing some serious thinking, the T4 has about 70k on it.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[dreadlocks]

yeah i was inspired by clyde and its chevy v8 for the cooling solution, front mount is the way to go.. too much kludgery and overheating issues with rear and under mounted rads.. I think I know of the dude in KS, I think his fist melt down was failed cooling kludgery, he tried dual rear mounted first and burnt it all up, then went under after that and still had intermittent issues overheating IIRC.. his horror story is why Ive not dumped much money into my ALH in the garage until I prove the swap is solid, then I'll yank it back out and tune it up and bulletproof it.. I'm also gonna have all sensors wired up and monitoring before I start testing heh.

 

[Regcabguy]

I had two 1974 buses. I built a bed in back and used the space underneath for storage. Boards went up top. Each had a five gallon American made gas can on the rear hatch. I made several solo runs to many surfspots in the Baja Pacific Northwest. Both had KYB's all around. You can't beat the VW build quality. Never a rattle or squeak. Handling in high side winds,that's another story? Precarious at best. I have fond memories and even had a dream I got another one at a bargain lately.

 

[Sneaks]

FedEx lost my windshield so while trying to source another one, I finally wrapped up the last of my electrical upgrades. Final step is some wire organization, will plug away at that this week.

Big Thanks to a member on the Samba (former Superwinch engineer) for sharing his knowledge and guidance on getting the winch wired up and working. I’m pleased. Gotta ditch the bracket in front of the fairlead so I can properly wind the cable.

Switching solenoid and wireless control, wired up from battery to solenoid to winch with 0/2 cable.

Mounted and wired up some 27w LEDs front and rear on the rack, switched from the cab so I can select front, back or both.

When combined with 200w LED headlights and old school 100w incandescent auxiliary lights, throws some good daylight forward and back, plus good broad downward out the side windows without glare

Back

Front (LED directional/parking lights as well)

LEDs for license light, stop, turn, parking)

Interior floor well light triggered off door switch or toggle

Still need to chase down no cold idle issue and GET MY DAMN WINDSHIELD!

 

[Sneaks]

Windshield in, tuned up, vacuum leaks hunted down, cranked the torsions to 25.5 degrees out back, just the right lift I think. Cannot wait time get tagged and rolling.

 

[Sneaks]

Finally, eight years later, legal and on the road. Let the games begin!

 

[Mickey Bitsko]

Real nice... where we goin?

 

[Farfrumwork]

Very cool!

 

[Sneaks]

Real nice... where we goin?

Short trips to start. I'm in rural Maine so I don't have far to go to get off the beaten path but close enough to call in help if something falls off .