Planning on some electrical upgrades and redoing some of my current setup. Right now I have my cb turned on by a switch. The idea was it would save wear and tear on the unit by only having power when I am using it. I realize it can be installed with no switch, but is there any benefit to adding one? Looking into a more expensive ham radio and don't want anything to wear out prematurely.
Any benefit to having radios activated by a switch?
- Thread starter Srpat
- Start date
cruiseroutfit
Well-known member
I can't think of any data which supports premature wear by simply having something wired constantly but not in fact in use. My radio's are all hot to the battery for several reasons, reduction of 'noise' and so that I can in fact operate them without having the key in the ACC/ON position. I can see putting a battery switched power circuit with a switch on it but your introducing more complexity and zero function as the radio's on/off buttons are built for just that.
Last edited:
gary in ohio
Explorer
You didnt say if your were referring to mobile or base stations. In either case a switch is a good idea. In my mobile I have a 3 postion key switch, One direction is alwasy on power, on position follows vehicle accessory (engine on) and the 3rd is a valet position that removes power from all the radios. I use that if my car is being used by someone besides me, that way service people, valet, "son" isnt tempted to play with the toys.
At home I have a single switch (actualy old breake box switch) that removes 12v power from all my gear.
At home I have a single switch (actualy old breake box switch) that removes 12v power from all my gear.
Thats the reply I was looking for. Poorly worded question, thanks for the respnse.
Pacific Northwest yetti
Expedition Medic
I have my cb, scanner and soon yeaseu, wired up through a switch. Mainly so I can turn them all on at once or all off at once. Also I can use the switch in each to customize it to my current need. ex) have no need for the ham, but need the cb and scanner, flip the switch and only the ones I need are on. I just liked the option. So IMHO with multiple coms and with SAR/medic/ Fire Fighting and how I use it it works. But for a single unit, the switch on the unit itself works great. However if utilizing multiple units, make sure do do a solid, and correct job wiring.
** typed from a phone
** typed from a phone
RobRed
Explorer
I have a relay tied to constant power.
When in normal mode the ham and the stereo turn off with the key. When the switch is activated power is provided to both without the key. It adds complexity having relays for each power connection but the flexibility / convenience is nice.
I've run the ham both direct to battery and via this setup and I'm not seeing any noise issues. I think some members that recently joined us in Death Valley can attest to the performance of my 50w 2 meter.
When in normal mode the ham and the stereo turn off with the key. When the switch is activated power is provided to both without the key. It adds complexity having relays for each power connection but the flexibility / convenience is nice.
I've run the ham both direct to battery and via this setup and I'm not seeing any noise issues. I think some members that recently joined us in Death Valley can attest to the performance of my 50w 2 meter.
Louisd75
Adventurer
There's always an exception and I've inadvertently found one. I'm running a Kenwood TM-D710 with APRS using the Greenlight Labs GPS-710 plug-n-play GPS receiver. I was having problems with my battery running down if the truck sat for a couple of weeks (common due to work). It wasn't until I came out one frosty morning and noticed that my windshield was covered with ice except for the spot where the GPS receiver was stuck to the inside of the glass. I pulled the fuse on my radio for a few days and the entire windshield iced up and the battery drain stopped. Even though the power button on the radio was off, the GPS receiver was apparently still using power through the radio. I'll be adding a switch when I get some time. In the meantime I just pull the fuse when the truck is going to be sitting.
On the APRS -- You could use one of these voltage level switches. When you turn off the vehicle, the system automatically powers down. You can actually set the cutoff points. So for example, you get in, start your car, and it powers up. A few moments after you shut off the ignition, it powers off.
The APO3 is a black box designed to prevent a vehicle battery from being discharged and damaged by a DC load. Typically it is used to switch a radio transceiver off 10 minutes after the vehicle is shut off.
The APO3 is designed for 12 volt vehicle electrical systems with negative ground. It can switch up to 20 amps and carry up to 30 amps. The shutdown voltage can be set to one of four pre-programmed voltages (11.8, 12.1, 12.7, 13.05 volts) using two DIP switches; the shutdown delay can be set to one of four pre-programmed times (0, 5, 10, 20 minutes). The device is housed in a sturdy ABS plastic case.
http://www.aprsworld.com/apo3/
The APO3 is a black box designed to prevent a vehicle battery from being discharged and damaged by a DC load. Typically it is used to switch a radio transceiver off 10 minutes after the vehicle is shut off.
The APO3 is designed for 12 volt vehicle electrical systems with negative ground. It can switch up to 20 amps and carry up to 30 amps. The shutdown voltage can be set to one of four pre-programmed voltages (11.8, 12.1, 12.7, 13.05 volts) using two DIP switches; the shutdown delay can be set to one of four pre-programmed times (0, 5, 10, 20 minutes). The device is housed in a sturdy ABS plastic case.
http://www.aprsworld.com/apo3/