Anybody doing an LR3 as an off-road rig?

[Paladin]

the aluminum is loud,

Nathan, what does this mean exactly?

Just curious, as I'm about to set off building a new full-length rack for my 04 with 2" rounded square aluminum tubing. 1/8" wall. I don't need anything HD. Only intend to carry some bridging ladders, and/or canoe, and/or some lightweight things occaisionally. No fuel cans or Pelicans.

The idea is something more streamlined looking like the LR3 factory rack with no gutter mounts. (D2 has rear rack mounting points under the roof skin at the back).

One other quick question-is the Faultmate the best / easiest OBD II reset device?

It is arguably the best, but very pricey. About $1000, and locked to your VIN. But as stated, it is SO much more than an OBD reader. I have yet to figure out which system I'm getting. I like the Faultmate, but it's a LOT of money.

You might also consider the Baermach Hawkeye unit. Can be bought for about $400 direct from the UK, and I can't see anything that it can't do compared to the Faultmate.

Also, Storey Wilson is almost done developing a new system.

In any case, I consider a system such as these to be absolutely mandatory if buying one of these trucks.

 

[nwoods]

Nathan, what does this mean exactly?

Just curious, as I'm about to set off building a new full-length rack for my 04 with 2" rounded square aluminum tubing. 1/8" wall. I don't need anything HD. Only intend to carry some bridging ladders, and/or canoe, and/or some lightweight things occasionally. No fuel cans or Pelicans.

The idea is something more streamlined looking like the LR3 factory rack with no gutter mounts. (D2 has rear rack mounting points under the roof skin at the back).

The factory rack tends to rattle like a stone in a tin can when anything is mounted to it. The shroud does a good job reducing wind noise, but overall the thing is pretty flimsy and there are not enough cross members to provide adequate support for most smaller cargo items you might want to put in it.

The LR3/4 has 3 or 4 (darn I forget!) hardpoints in the gutter to bolt a rack into. This is the strongest way, and can support considerable weight. However, I did it a little different. I used a Thule quick release pylon base system with square cross bars that were then clamped to my Hannibal rack (FrontRunner is very similar). The Thule base system clamped to the roof rail channels mounted above the gutter the full length of the roof. This allowed me a secure attachment, but the ability to quickly and easily remove the rack whenever I wanted to (which was most of the time).

Here are a couple of pictures of my rack, but I don't have any detail shots online anymore, sorry!

Here is a shot of my rack on a buddy's LR3, with a RTT

 

[Paladin]

Think the rattling was due to bolt-together construction? A fully welded rack would be better?

 

[nwoods]

Think the rattling was due to bolt-together construction? A fully welded rack would be better?

I don't really know. I only worked with one once (OEM Rack), it was pretty flimsy, it rattled, it was awkward to load out, and I didn't like it, so I didn't pay much more attention to it.

 

[Paladin]

Ok, I'm assuming it was thin wall and probably bolt together so it fit in a small box. Hopefully mine works out. Just wondering if your experience would give me anything to consider.

 

[Tom B]

Another big thumbs up on the LR3. I have gone offroading and camping with a few of them in Colorado and Moab (plus had a RRS) and they are quite exceptional and can do 90% of the trails next to stock. Land Rover seems to be one of the only 4x4 manufactures that still pumps out vehicles with 'acceptable' breakover angles - i.e. Defender 110 ~30, LR3 can get to ~30 in Super Extended. Having more focus on breakover offers a better balance in my experience than the long wheel base vehicles that choose to put their wheels at either end.

As a piece of advice on kitting out your LR3 if you choose to go that route, I would suggest looking into exhaust skid plates. This was the one of the sore weak spots I saw with the LR3 on difficult boulder strewn Colorado trails (they can do it!) and during fast track driving - exhaust would hit and get damaged on hard suspension compressions.

 

[Mack73]

As a piece of advice on kitting our your LR3 if you choose to go that route, I would suggest looking into exhaust skid plates. This was the one of the sore weak spots I saw with the LR3 on difficult boulder strewn Colorado trails (they can do it!) and during fast track driving - exhaust would hit and get damaged on hard suspension compressions.

Yes the dang exhaust does hang low? Has anyone tried to route this up and tight against the floor? I know some have cut it off in front of the diff, but the whole fumes in the cabin isn't really good on long/slow runs or when sitting idling.

 

[nwoods]

Yes the dang exhaust does hang low? Has anyone tried to route this up and tight against the floor? I know some have cut it off in front of the diff, but the whole fumes in the cabin isn't really good on long/slow runs or when sitting idling.

Tryian has modded his exhaust so that the whole rear componet forward of the rear diff is easily removable for the trail. I crushed mine flat a few times on various rocks here and there . I think it's a pretty minor and inexpensive repair really, and one of those "cheap noises" likely to be heard on the trail. I think the gas tank is more vulnerable and far more expensive. I know 'cause I bought three of them!

 

[nwoods]

Send me a note - would like to hear more
scott *at* expeditionswest *dot* com

Oh sure..... How much seat time do you get during the G4 event, really? Sure, plenty of kayak time, but qualitative off road stuff? And isn't everyone a former race car driver? Heck even I am. I've raced SCCA (showroom stock), bunch of autocross stuff, even been through the Z06 program at Bondurant. And I live kinda nearby... I'm just saying

LOL. Sorry, hard to control my hunger pangs to get back into an LR3/4. If you'd let me, I'll rake that baby through the Rubicon. My friends that attempted it last year are going again...

 

[Mack73]

I think the gas tank is more vulnerable and far more expensive. I know 'cause I bought three of them!

RS sliders don't cover the gas tank do they?

 

[Dave Legacy]

RS sliders don't cover the gas tank do they?

They do not, but there Lucky8 just announced that they'll be stocking a fuel tank skid.

 

[nwoods]

RS sliders don't cover the gas tank do they?

No unfortunately. RS was working on a prototype gas skid, but never released it. high country 4x4 had a product out there for a year or two, but they closed shop last year. Not sure if RoversNorth has made anything yet? SafariGard was tinkering with one, but then Casey got a military recall and hasn't been seen or heard from since.

 

[Bullsnake]

Update:

Thanks everyone for all of your responses! I should have an '08 HSE with 24,00 miles and a rod lift / tires by the end of the week! I also ordered a Fault Mate MSV-2, and the truck should be coming together shortly!

My last inquiry (for now!)- What is everyone using for sliders and underbody protection? I DEFINITELY want to do a set of sliders, and from what I gather protection for the exhaust and fuel tank is a good idea as well. There has also been talk about relocating the lines running up the inner front wheel well for the computer equipment so that it does not get snagged by an oversized tire that is stuffed in the wheel well while off roading-any ideas on that? Pictures, if anyone has them would be great!

Thanks again, everyone, for making this decision a little easier. I cannot wait to get my hands on the truck and see what it can do!

Thanks again!

 

[jdholder]

Is the 08 you are getting an LR3? Or a MKIII?

If MKIII, no one makes off the shelf sliders, but my fabricator made some for me.

Good luck! Have fun!

 

[Paladin]

Good choice on the Faultmate. I think if more people factored these things into the price of the car (or if the OEM's included this functionality in the touchscreen...) it would go a long way to dispelling the "but the electronics are too complicated" myth from the traditionalists. But I'm biased. My current day job largely involves removing prime movers and lineshafts from old industrial equipment and installing multi variable-speed AC drives, and programming HMI's.

Nathan, SCCA SS, which car(s)?