ARB vs. Calmini

[bigreen505]

Incusus, as a point of reference, I have 18.75" from the *top* of the stock Isuzu hub caps to the bottom of the flare at all four corners with the stock bars slightly cranked and a "reasonable" load in the back, supported by the 919 springs. That amount of lift in the front seems to still allow some level of travel while still being high enough to prevent rubbing on a 32.5" tire (Cooper 285's) in most conditions. I get some rub cruising through whoop-de-dos. I would start there. Most people tend to put on the 919 springs, giving 3" of lift, and crank the front 3", dialing out most of the travel and giving the truck a nose-high look when loaded.

While I would never recommend it, several of us removed the front sway bar. The end result is a little more body roll, a bit of a wander in a straight line, and a much improved ride as the IFS is able to actually work independently. There are also some odd handling traits that go along with it, in my case massive understeer below the adhesion limit followed by snap oversteer after it (ever driven a 911?). Not a big deal, but something to be aware of. I put my sway bar on for the winter, but when I took it off this spring, I think it is permanent.

 

[Incusus]

Incusus, as a point of reference, I have 18.75" from the *top* of the stock Isuzu hub caps to the bottom of the flare at all four corners with the stock bars slightly cranked and a "reasonable" load in the back, supported by the 919 springs. That amount of lift in the front seems to still allow some level of travel while still being high enough to prevent rubbing on a 32.5" tire (Cooper 285's) in most conditions. I get some rub cruising through whoop-de-dos. I would start there. Most people tend to put on the 919 springs, giving 3" of lift, and crank the front 3", dialing out most of the travel and giving the truck a nose-high look when loaded.

I'll probably flip the ball joints and put a shorter bumper-stopper on, am hoping to regain some of the travel that way. I should be fine with the upcoming 265/75's (which should be what, 31.6? no worries there.)

Thanks for the point of refrence! Do you know what the original stock ride height was on the Trooper? I could measure 2~3" of lift from where I'm at, but I'm assuming I'm sagging pretty badly at this point.

 

[bigreen505]

Do you know what the original stock ride height was on the Trooper?

Not a clue, all I can offer is where I am at. I had the same thought as you, but my truck was not stock when I bought it (he actually had the front cranked WAY up). No one that I spoke with seemed to know what stock height was and I can't find it in the service manual. I tried to go off of the Expeditions West numbers, but couldn't be sure where to measure from (I think they are from the top of a Superwinch hub). So plan B was to load up the back and get the truck basically level.

Now that I think about it, the genius was running Rancho shocks that were too short and had the T-bars cranked 3" over stock, effectively maxing out the shock (full extension) on level ground. No wonder the truck drove like crap.

 

[ZooJunkie]

1997 Trooper dimensions and ride height: -External dimensions: overall length (mm): 4,544, overall width (mm): 1,765, overall height (mm): 1,834, ground clearance (mm): 249 (converts to 249 millimeter = 9.803 149 606 inch), wheelbase (mm): 2,761, front track (mm): 1,514, rear track (mm): 1,519 and curb to curb turning circle (mm): 11,613

2002 Trooper dimensions and ride height: -External dimensions: overall length (inches): 181.3, overall width (inches): 72.2, overall height (inches): 72.2, ground clearance (inches): 8.3, wheelbase (inches): 108.7, front track (inches): 59.6, rear track (inches): 59.8 and curb to curb turning circle (feet): 38.1


Looks like from 1998 the trooper lost some ground clearance.

 

[Incusus]

ground clearance (inches): 8.3,

Assuming thats with the stock tires (245/70r16) at recomended inflation (30 frt, 35 rear), which puts the tires at about 29.25" (29.5" with an estimated .25" loss when bearing weight, probably more)... then changing to 265/75's (31.6 actual, 31.25 est bearing weight), thats about a 1" gain in lift off of the stock ground clearance with the new tires. Again, I'm *guessing* I'd lose .25" in tire sag.

My non-scientific "pulling-numbers-out-of-my-butt" method says with the 265/75's at curb weight, it would be closer to 9.3 clearance with a stock suspension I think....
So with the 3" lift (unloaded) the 919 springs would give me about a foot of clearance at the lowest point, or about 10-11" with 300# in the back. Not Bad!

Not sure where they measure that 8.3 from, maybe the axles?? thats the lowest point I can think of. I'll probably continue to measure from the hubs using Bills 18.75 as a refrence.

Now that I think about it, this presents another possible issue... With the 3-4" increase in height (tires & suspension) am I looking at new brake lines as well?? Will the stock ones reach?

 

[bigreen505]

I would guess that ground clearance is measured to the lowest point, probably a diff, which means ground clearance only increases by half the tire size.

As for brake lines, I have not done anything yet, but SS lines from Independent 4x is high on my list because of length, improved feel, and Marmots have a demonstrated appetite for rubber hoses (brake and cooling), which have left several vehicles stranded at high altitudes.

You could also make a drop bracket to gain a little length.

 

[Incusus]

Marmots have a demonstrated appetite for rubber hoses (brake and cooling), which have left several vehicles stranded at high altitudes.

Now THERES an off-road hazard I can safely say I've never considered. Giant rubber-eating groundhog sabatuers...

I may look into fabbing a bracket first as long as theres enough rubber to do it. Glad to hear theres probably enough brake hose to get away with it.
I have the stainless lines down as part of the brake upgrade later, but with the exhaust and suspension work currently going on, it will be a bit before I can get the cash together for it.

 

[ZooJunkie]

After replacing my cv boot and doing a ball flip plus adding a spacer to my Calmini shocks, I think I'm in a market for new shocks. Although they ride ok, one thing that set these apart from better shocks is fitment. The front shocks just don't fit well with the lower A-Arm shock mounting post. It's slightly smaller than OEM, and as a result, when you go tighten the whole thing you end up bending the shock tabs.

sigh.

 

[vengeful]

That is typical of any aftermarket shock. You can simply shim the mounts with washers to prevent the bending.

 

[ZooJunkie]

That is typical of any aftermarket shock. You can simply shim the mounts with washers to prevent the bending.

Yah, when I was installing it the first time, I didn't have any shims to shim it up!

 

[Incusus]

OK! I'm ready to cut a check for my suspension (and other) components. Any recommendations on dealers? I'd like to stick to east coast due to shipping, but I'll pay a bit extra for good/fast service. Anyone?

 

[ZooJunkie]

There's only one really, you can't go wrong w/ ind4x4.
http://www.independent4x.com/

 

[Incusus]

There's only one really, you can't go wrong w/ ind4x4.
http://www.independent4x.com/

awdamn... I went and looked and now I want those nifty red heavy duty tie rod ends too!

Looks like they know Troopers, thats for sure, and they're in my UPS shipping zone! Thanks for the tip, man! :victory: