Astro 4x4 Adventure VAN
- Thread starter Sharkfox
- Start date
Herbie
Rendezvous Conspirator
Awesome work Sharkfox. I'm sure you've seen Dean's similar project (the fruits of which are now on my van), but just in case you haven't, I'd hate to see you reinvent a wheel. Here's how he did the cable-shift NP233.
For me, the cable-shift is really the best because you only have to make one small floor penetration (and one hole in the driver's seat mount). I too prefer the simplicity/robustness of a mechanical actuator vs. the electronic shift.
For me, the cable-shift is really the best because you only have to make one small floor penetration (and one hole in the driver's seat mount). I too prefer the simplicity/robustness of a mechanical actuator vs. the electronic shift.
Thanks Herbie. My shifter and t-case have been installed and functioning for over a year now. I'm still trying to play catch up to where my build is now on this thread. I did consider using a push-pull cable at first but decided to use the materials I had on hand to fabricate one.
Herbie
Rendezvous Conspirator
LOL, I hear you on catch-up posts. Well, can't wait to see how you finished it off. The more the merrier!
Designing the shifter and linkage was a mathematical exercise.
First I determined the force required to shift the t-case. The simplest way I could come up with on the fly was with a fishing scale. Hook it to the wrench and pull slowly while watching the scale until it shifts.
Once I knew that, it was a matter of converting it to the torque required and calculating appropriate linkage lengths.
The plan was to cut a hole in the floor close to the base of the driver's seat and keep the handle close to the floor and out of the way. I decided that I would cut a small hole in the floor and bolt the shifter in place. I made two mounting plates. One above the floor and one below the floor. The plate above the floor has the shifter pivot attached to it.
Here are the pieces that make up the pivot and mounting plates.
Everything on the top side is tacked up ready for test fitting.
First I determined the force required to shift the t-case. The simplest way I could come up with on the fly was with a fishing scale. Hook it to the wrench and pull slowly while watching the scale until it shifts.
Once I knew that, it was a matter of converting it to the torque required and calculating appropriate linkage lengths.
The plan was to cut a hole in the floor close to the base of the driver's seat and keep the handle close to the floor and out of the way. I decided that I would cut a small hole in the floor and bolt the shifter in place. I made two mounting plates. One above the floor and one below the floor. The plate above the floor has the shifter pivot attached to it.
Here are the pieces that make up the pivot and mounting plates.
Everything on the top side is tacked up ready for test fitting.
Wiley
Adventurer
Plus it looks bad *** having the shifter in the floor.
Great van Sharkfox, hurry up with those pics
ihatemybike
Explorer
The shifter was semi-designed so it was time to do the t-case swap before I could finish it up. The transfer case got a new set of seals and a fresh supply of fluid before the installation.
The actual physical swap was surprisingly straight forward. I dropped the axles and pulled the stock transfer case out.
The bolt pattern on both transfer cases are the same. I swapped the studs out of the original and bolted the 4x4 case in.
Everything lined up like it was supposed to. I reattached the axles and that was about it. Pretty simple conversion.
Thanks to the Astro Forefathers I was able to figure out the electrical side of this project. I followed THIS BULID (thanks Herbie) to get the transmission to shift when put in low range.
The VSS connections were different so I had to replace the old plug with this one.
Soldered and heat shrinked to keep everything tight and clean.
Now that the transfer case was in, I could start aligning the shift linkage and finish assembling it.
More to come.....
The actual physical swap was surprisingly straight forward. I dropped the axles and pulled the stock transfer case out.
The bolt pattern on both transfer cases are the same. I swapped the studs out of the original and bolted the 4x4 case in.
Everything lined up like it was supposed to. I reattached the axles and that was about it. Pretty simple conversion.
Thanks to the Astro Forefathers I was able to figure out the electrical side of this project. I followed THIS BULID (thanks Herbie) to get the transmission to shift when put in low range.
The VSS connections were different so I had to replace the old plug with this one.
Soldered and heat shrinked to keep everything tight and clean.
Now that the transfer case was in, I could start aligning the shift linkage and finish assembling it.
More to come.....
Here are a few pictures of the shifter installation. I'll try to get some updated shots of the completed linkage below the floor too.
The hole in the floor mat is kind of sloppy but I was planning to cover it up with a generic shifter boot once it was all done.
There is a micro switch mounted to the shifter that gets depressed when the shifter is put in 4-lo. The reason for this is to ground a terminal at the ECU that allows the transmission to shift normally when in low range.
The bolt is installed to fine tune the point of contact. Everything is tacked in place here for a quick test fit.
Once I was sure everything was in the right place, I finished welding, shot it with a couple coats of paint, and bolted it all together.
I didn't want the shifter to be too intrusive or in the way of any type of future center console so it is tucked pretty close to the base of the driver's seat. Since most of the driving is done in 2WD mode, the shifter is low down and out of the way in 2WD.
Here it is in 4-Hi...
Here it is in 4-Lo. Notice the micro switch is depressed here.
Here it is with the seat back in place.
It's tight, but the shifter clears the seat reclining lever and seat belt.
The hole in the floor mat is kind of sloppy but I was planning to cover it up with a generic shifter boot once it was all done.
There is a micro switch mounted to the shifter that gets depressed when the shifter is put in 4-lo. The reason for this is to ground a terminal at the ECU that allows the transmission to shift normally when in low range.
The bolt is installed to fine tune the point of contact. Everything is tacked in place here for a quick test fit.
Once I was sure everything was in the right place, I finished welding, shot it with a couple coats of paint, and bolted it all together.
I didn't want the shifter to be too intrusive or in the way of any type of future center console so it is tucked pretty close to the base of the driver's seat. Since most of the driving is done in 2WD mode, the shifter is low down and out of the way in 2WD.
Here it is in 4-Hi...
Here it is in 4-Lo. Notice the micro switch is depressed here.
Here it is with the seat back in place.
It's tight, but the shifter clears the seat reclining lever and seat belt.
