Astro AWD "Stroverlander"
- Thread starter Stroverlander
- Start date
Stroverlander
Adventurer
My van was still fairly tight then too, give it another 40k or 50k miles! 
Stroverlander
Adventurer
Break On Through...
After getting sidetracked with motor mount replacement, it was time to tackle the oil pan gasket repair. This again turned into a much less straightforward repair than anticipated. :snorkel:
I was finally able to gain enough clearance for oil pan removal by removing all the front diff mounting hardware to lower the front diff enough for the pan to clear and also by rotating the crankshaft for clearance at the very front (thanks for the tip Wiley). With the oil pan out, I could see oil was also leaking from the timing cover/crank seal and so started removing all the parts in front of the timing cover.
Fan, fan clutch, crank and power steering pulleys removed to have a better look.
The water pump (original) isn't leaking, the water is from loosening the hose clamps and freeing stuck hoses. The power steering pump appears to be leaking quite a bit though.
The mess that was hiding behind the fan, water pump and harmonic balancer.
Crank position sensor removed, don't forget to replace o-ring!
To remove the leaking power steering pump, I first had to remove the cast aluminum accessory bracket that the A/C compressor and power steering pump are attached to. I unbolted the a/c compressor (no lines disconnected) and tied it up and out out of the way and then unbolted the power steering pump from bracket.
From here, I could disconnect the lines and hoses from pump and remove the p/s pump.
Power steering pump removed, weighing my options...
The timing cover itself is straightforward enough to remove with six bolts holding it in place.
With all the parts removed and inspected, I had a better idea of what I would need to replace and while sorting out parts, I moved on to cleaning and prepping for reassembly. :yikes:
After getting sidetracked with motor mount replacement, it was time to tackle the oil pan gasket repair. This again turned into a much less straightforward repair than anticipated. :snorkel:
I was finally able to gain enough clearance for oil pan removal by removing all the front diff mounting hardware to lower the front diff enough for the pan to clear and also by rotating the crankshaft for clearance at the very front (thanks for the tip Wiley). With the oil pan out, I could see oil was also leaking from the timing cover/crank seal and so started removing all the parts in front of the timing cover.
Fan, fan clutch, crank and power steering pulleys removed to have a better look.
The water pump (original) isn't leaking, the water is from loosening the hose clamps and freeing stuck hoses. The power steering pump appears to be leaking quite a bit though.
The mess that was hiding behind the fan, water pump and harmonic balancer.
Crank position sensor removed, don't forget to replace o-ring!
To remove the leaking power steering pump, I first had to remove the cast aluminum accessory bracket that the A/C compressor and power steering pump are attached to. I unbolted the a/c compressor (no lines disconnected) and tied it up and out out of the way and then unbolted the power steering pump from bracket.
From here, I could disconnect the lines and hoses from pump and remove the p/s pump.
Power steering pump removed, weighing my options...
The timing cover itself is straightforward enough to remove with six bolts holding it in place.
With all the parts removed and inspected, I had a better idea of what I would need to replace and while sorting out parts, I moved on to cleaning and prepping for reassembly. :yikes:
Holy smokes! With the amount of work you've been doing on that engine would it not have been easier to just pull it? I struggled with the same question when I pulled the engine on Boomer and in the end, the decision to pull it vs. struggling with all the various projects while the engine was bolted in place was a good one. Obviously, this comment is far too late since you're already well on your way here...
SG
SG
Stroverlander
Adventurer
Believe me, I thought about that but in the end the costs would have been greater and (for me) much more time consuming. I also don't have the space for that kind of work right now - think van body pulling a wheelie and then rolling front subframe/engine out. My goal was to reseal the engine and once I decided that the timing cover/crank seal had to be replaced I went with replacing other marginal components while I was at it. It also allows me the opportunity to do a couple of small modifications I've had on my mind since lifting, which I'll have in a future post.
Mechanically speaking, the work is reasonable enough and with a couple loaner puller/install tools goes pretty quick. Access from underneath is great with the lift as I haven't had to jack up the van to work on at all. When working through the engine compartment, I do use a couple blocks of wood to stand on at times to help access some of the lower components like crank pulley and harmonic balancer.
I would like to pull the subframe/engine someday, not only for a potential V8 swap but also to refinish the subframe - don't think that day is too near though!
Mechanically speaking, the work is reasonable enough and with a couple loaner puller/install tools goes pretty quick. Access from underneath is great with the lift as I haven't had to jack up the van to work on at all. When working through the engine compartment, I do use a couple blocks of wood to stand on at times to help access some of the lower components like crank pulley and harmonic balancer.
I would like to pull the subframe/engine someday, not only for a potential V8 swap but also to refinish the subframe - don't think that day is too near though!
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Stroverlander
Adventurer
According to GM, the plastic timing cover is one use only and should be replaced when removing so after looking at what was available and the poor reviews of the Dorman replacement part, I opted for a factory replacement from GM Parts East. The new timing cover comes complete with cover, crank seal pre-installed, hardware/grommets and a bead of gasket sealer applied to cover and was around $47 shipped.
Also, after not being able to source the correct crankshaft position sensor o-ring locally without purchasing a complete sensor, I bought a five pack of ACDelco part number 219-194 on eBay for $8.
With the oil pan cleaned up and degreased with a pressure washing from the car wash and the gasket groove on the oil pan and all other gasket surfaces prepped, it was time to reinstall the oil pan and front timing cover. Because of the design of the timing cover, oil pan, gaskets and how they join together, I wanted to install these in quick order with the gasket sealer - Permatex Ultra Grey Rigid High Torque not setting up before the timing cover and oil pan were assembled together on the engine and so prepped with both with sealant and installed in quick order.
New and old cover, gives you some idea of where oil was leaking from, near the bottom bolt holes.
I neglected to take photos of the oil pan cleaned up with new Fel-Pro gasket installed, or on the block and where I applied sealant but pretty much followed the factory spec, only with slightly longer beads than specified to both front and rear crank seal areas.
On the timing cover, I ran an overlapping bead of sealant up past the locating dowels, down and all the way around the bottom of the oil pan gasket groove and also onto the block for that critical junction.
I managed to get the oil pan in place without too much disruption to the sealant and lightly tightened both sets of hardware while making sure the oil pan was properly positioned. After a bit of curing time, I torqued both the timing cover and oil pan in sequence and to spec: Oil pan - 18 lb ft + blue Loctite and timing cover - 106 inch lbs.
A little sloppier than I prefer but should do the job.
In the meantime, I cleaned up and inspected the harmonic balancer after soaking in Evapo-rust solution. I found a slight groove in the shaft from the crank seal and rather than replace the balancer which was still in good condition overall, I purchased and installed an $8 press fit repair sleeve and repainted the balancer. I also decided that my original water pump would be usable for now and picked up new gaskets while I soaked the pump in Evapo-rust and then repainted. I decided to rebuild my own power steering pump and picked up a rebuild kit with o-rings and shaft bushing while I determined what I wanted to do with pressure hoses.
Also, after not being able to source the correct crankshaft position sensor o-ring locally without purchasing a complete sensor, I bought a five pack of ACDelco part number 219-194 on eBay for $8.
With the oil pan cleaned up and degreased with a pressure washing from the car wash and the gasket groove on the oil pan and all other gasket surfaces prepped, it was time to reinstall the oil pan and front timing cover. Because of the design of the timing cover, oil pan, gaskets and how they join together, I wanted to install these in quick order with the gasket sealer - Permatex Ultra Grey Rigid High Torque not setting up before the timing cover and oil pan were assembled together on the engine and so prepped with both with sealant and installed in quick order.
New and old cover, gives you some idea of where oil was leaking from, near the bottom bolt holes.
I neglected to take photos of the oil pan cleaned up with new Fel-Pro gasket installed, or on the block and where I applied sealant but pretty much followed the factory spec, only with slightly longer beads than specified to both front and rear crank seal areas.
On the timing cover, I ran an overlapping bead of sealant up past the locating dowels, down and all the way around the bottom of the oil pan gasket groove and also onto the block for that critical junction.
I managed to get the oil pan in place without too much disruption to the sealant and lightly tightened both sets of hardware while making sure the oil pan was properly positioned. After a bit of curing time, I torqued both the timing cover and oil pan in sequence and to spec: Oil pan - 18 lb ft + blue Loctite and timing cover - 106 inch lbs.
A little sloppier than I prefer but should do the job.
In the meantime, I cleaned up and inspected the harmonic balancer after soaking in Evapo-rust solution. I found a slight groove in the shaft from the crank seal and rather than replace the balancer which was still in good condition overall, I purchased and installed an $8 press fit repair sleeve and repainted the balancer. I also decided that my original water pump would be usable for now and picked up new gaskets while I soaked the pump in Evapo-rust and then repainted. I decided to rebuild my own power steering pump and picked up a rebuild kit with o-rings and shaft bushing while I determined what I wanted to do with pressure hoses.
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Stroverlander
Adventurer
Ha! Glad this is going to help you out, I should have posted it sooner! :ylsmoke:
Stroverlander
Adventurer
With timing cover installed I moved on to harmonic balancer, crank pulley and water pump installation.
Harmonic balancer removal with Autozone OEM 27019 puller kit.
Refinished harmonic balancer with repair sleeve installed on shaft.
I picked up a loaner Autozone OEM 27144 harmonic balancer installer to press the balancer back onto the crank. Good thing I checked to make sure the tool was in good condition before leaving the store as the first tool they tried to give me was a damaged piece of junk with stripped threads so asked for one in better condition and they brought out a new one. I think it's worth using the tool rather than cobbling something together with a bolt and washers or whatever, I didn't want to risk damaging the crankshaft or have tool break off in crank.
The crank seal in the new timing cover comes pre-greased and prior to balancer install I also greased the crankshaft end, crank threads, harmonic balancer and installation tool to prevent galling. The woodruff key on the crank was still sealed in place with RTV from the factory so aligned the balancer and pressed onto shaft by hand, then threaded the install tool into the crank threads and adjusted until snug. From there it was slow going turning the large nut with a crescent wrench and watching the balancer being pressed onto the crankshaft a tiny amount each turn.
It took some time and got harder to turn the further the balancer pressed onto crank but just kept going until the balancer bottomed out on the crankshaft and felt a definite stop in movement and turning the nut.
Harmonic balancer installed and ready for crank pulley installation. The depth of harmonic balancer affects crank pulley position so made sure balancer was pressed all the way onto crankshaft.
Edit:
After getting the harmonic balancer and crank pulley reinstalled, I was bothered by the fact that I did't use any sealant on the crankshaft keyway and rather than risk a potential oil leak now or in the future, decided to go back and remove the balancer once again to apply sealant to the key and reinstall the balancer.
So back off the with the !#@$%&! balancer again and a hint of what I moved on to next - new power steering pump and lines (longer, modified).
Keyway groove ready for a dab of sealant.
Can just make out edge of repair sleeve on greased shaft.
Back on, one more (last) time...
Previously, I mentioned I was going to re-use the original water pump and so gave it a makeover by soaking in Evapo-rust solution, sealing the back cover and painting it. However, once I started in on assembly, I decided I didn't really want to risk having to go back and replace a bad pump anytime soon so decided to purchase a new pump. I went with a new, (not reman) ToughOne water pump from Advance Auto, manufactured by GMB for $31 after promo code with lifetime warranty. I also picked up a new water pump bypass hose and clamps to replace the original spring type.
Old and new. I should have painted the new pump! :sombrero:
Crank pulley, new water pump and bypass hose installed. I used Permatex Water Pump RTV on water pump gasket surfaces with the paper gaskets.
Seems like I'm making forward progress on assembly now instead of removing more and more parts!
Harmonic balancer removal with Autozone OEM 27019 puller kit.
Refinished harmonic balancer with repair sleeve installed on shaft.
I picked up a loaner Autozone OEM 27144 harmonic balancer installer to press the balancer back onto the crank. Good thing I checked to make sure the tool was in good condition before leaving the store as the first tool they tried to give me was a damaged piece of junk with stripped threads so asked for one in better condition and they brought out a new one. I think it's worth using the tool rather than cobbling something together with a bolt and washers or whatever, I didn't want to risk damaging the crankshaft or have tool break off in crank.
The crank seal in the new timing cover comes pre-greased and prior to balancer install I also greased the crankshaft end, crank threads, harmonic balancer and installation tool to prevent galling. The woodruff key on the crank was still sealed in place with RTV from the factory so aligned the balancer and pressed onto shaft by hand, then threaded the install tool into the crank threads and adjusted until snug. From there it was slow going turning the large nut with a crescent wrench and watching the balancer being pressed onto the crankshaft a tiny amount each turn.
It took some time and got harder to turn the further the balancer pressed onto crank but just kept going until the balancer bottomed out on the crankshaft and felt a definite stop in movement and turning the nut.
Harmonic balancer installed and ready for crank pulley installation. The depth of harmonic balancer affects crank pulley position so made sure balancer was pressed all the way onto crankshaft.
Edit:
After getting the harmonic balancer and crank pulley reinstalled, I was bothered by the fact that I did't use any sealant on the crankshaft keyway and rather than risk a potential oil leak now or in the future, decided to go back and remove the balancer once again to apply sealant to the key and reinstall the balancer.
So back off the with the !#@$%&! balancer again and a hint of what I moved on to next - new power steering pump and lines (longer, modified).
Keyway groove ready for a dab of sealant.
Can just make out edge of repair sleeve on greased shaft.
Back on, one more (last) time...
Previously, I mentioned I was going to re-use the original water pump and so gave it a makeover by soaking in Evapo-rust solution, sealing the back cover and painting it. However, once I started in on assembly, I decided I didn't really want to risk having to go back and replace a bad pump anytime soon so decided to purchase a new pump. I went with a new, (not reman) ToughOne water pump from Advance Auto, manufactured by GMB for $31 after promo code with lifetime warranty. I also picked up a new water pump bypass hose and clamps to replace the original spring type.
Old and new. I should have painted the new pump! :sombrero:
Crank pulley, new water pump and bypass hose installed. I used Permatex Water Pump RTV on water pump gasket surfaces with the paper gaskets.
Seems like I'm making forward progress on assembly now instead of removing more and more parts!
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Stroverlander
Adventurer
Thanks mapper.
I certainly hope so arlon - I didn't want to do all these things at once but sort of all sprung up around the same time and one thing led to another... Did I mention I don't like fluid leaks? :sombrero:
Stroverlander
Adventurer
Back from the dead...
…and trying to put an end to all the suspense and intrigue that's been hanging for months! :sombrero: Really just trying to finish posting all the maintenance and repairs I performed...
I tried rebuilding my original p/s pump with a $12 seal and shaft bushing kit. Everything went great until I realized the pump shaft was way too tight in the bushing I pressed in and wasn't going to work. The bushing probably went slightly crooked on installation so scrapped that idea and picked up a Cardone reman p/s pump without reservoir for $35 as I had already refinished the original housing.
Assembly was pretty straightforward, installing the o-rings and fittings to on the pump and reservoir housing.
The reman pump comes with two sets of o-rings, thin and thick, I went with the thick set...
All assembled, nice and leak free hopefully...
Looking good if I do say so myself!
With the power steering / hydroboost lines weeping and needing to be replaced, I also wanted longer lines to help prevent any stress from the 2” body lift and also for any potential future mods. I couldn't find a local source for custom lines so compared a bunch of photos and line lengths on the Rock Auto website but with endless possibilities, I followed what had already been done at least once before on A/S forum and went with longer lines from late 90's Express/Savanna van. Even with a few differences in mounting/line routing throughout the years, I figured I could make them work with a little bending too.
Gates 365456 Hydroboost to Gear and Gates 365458 Hydroboost to Pump
After a few hours of bending, test fitting and figuring out routing I was able to make the longer lines work to my satisfaction and got to installing the new p/s pump and lines.
Steering Gear to Hydrooboost, not too bad at either end to bend and fit.
Pump to Hydroboost, pump end required a fairly significant tweak at the pump.
One of the Hydroboost end fittings and new, longer fluid feed hose from reservoir to pump.
Final bends sorted to clear subframe and yet to be installed oil cooler lines.
Accessory bracket and pump pulley installed with oil cooler lines in place and Magna-Pure filter installed on p/s cooler return line.
Filled with fresh p/s fluid and bleeding was a bit difficult until I went back and read that should prime the Hydroboost system by starting van and pumping brake pedal 10-15 times, then bleeding p/s system became much more effective. I also had to go back and press the p/s pulley on a couple mm further as the tool must have bottomed out in the pump shaft the first time and I didn't notice until I installed the serpentine belt that the p/s pulley was slightly off. Other than that, once bled, the p/s system is working well.
More later, maybe...
…and trying to put an end to all the suspense and intrigue that's been hanging for months! :sombrero: Really just trying to finish posting all the maintenance and repairs I performed...
I tried rebuilding my original p/s pump with a $12 seal and shaft bushing kit. Everything went great until I realized the pump shaft was way too tight in the bushing I pressed in and wasn't going to work. The bushing probably went slightly crooked on installation so scrapped that idea and picked up a Cardone reman p/s pump without reservoir for $35 as I had already refinished the original housing.
Assembly was pretty straightforward, installing the o-rings and fittings to on the pump and reservoir housing.
The reman pump comes with two sets of o-rings, thin and thick, I went with the thick set...
All assembled, nice and leak free hopefully...
Looking good if I do say so myself!
With the power steering / hydroboost lines weeping and needing to be replaced, I also wanted longer lines to help prevent any stress from the 2” body lift and also for any potential future mods. I couldn't find a local source for custom lines so compared a bunch of photos and line lengths on the Rock Auto website but with endless possibilities, I followed what had already been done at least once before on A/S forum and went with longer lines from late 90's Express/Savanna van. Even with a few differences in mounting/line routing throughout the years, I figured I could make them work with a little bending too.
Gates 365456 Hydroboost to Gear and Gates 365458 Hydroboost to Pump
After a few hours of bending, test fitting and figuring out routing I was able to make the longer lines work to my satisfaction and got to installing the new p/s pump and lines.
Steering Gear to Hydrooboost, not too bad at either end to bend and fit.
Pump to Hydroboost, pump end required a fairly significant tweak at the pump.
One of the Hydroboost end fittings and new, longer fluid feed hose from reservoir to pump.
Final bends sorted to clear subframe and yet to be installed oil cooler lines.
Accessory bracket and pump pulley installed with oil cooler lines in place and Magna-Pure filter installed on p/s cooler return line.
Filled with fresh p/s fluid and bleeding was a bit difficult until I went back and read that should prime the Hydroboost system by starting van and pumping brake pedal 10-15 times, then bleeding p/s system became much more effective. I also had to go back and press the p/s pulley on a couple mm further as the tool must have bottomed out in the pump shaft the first time and I didn't notice until I installed the serpentine belt that the p/s pulley was slightly off. Other than that, once bled, the p/s system is working well.
More later, maybe...
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Mwilliamshs
Explorer
...
Back on, one more (last) time...
That's an important nut with considerable torque. IF I had to use an adjustable wrench I'd do so carefully AND I would turn it over and use it in the proper direction. Tightening the nut as shown puts a spreading force on the tool's movable jaw which can make both rounding the nut and damaging the wrench more likely.
Could be why loaner tools are often damaged and why adjustable wrenches are frowned upon by most pro mechanics.
I didn't say Crescent® wrench for good reason BTW
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Stroverlander
Adventurer
Pretty sure I've documented well enough in this thread that an adjustable wrench isn't my first choice of attack while working on my van.
If I'd have thought it was dangerous or risk of slipping, I'd have used a different approach but it wasn't necessary. The photo doesn't show the lack of clearance due to the water pump and only being able to turn approximately 1/4 turn or so at a time.
As far as mistreatment of loaner tools which perhaps you seem to be implying, I don't believe I've ever returned a loaner tool in worse condition than I received and seem to be the only one who bothers to grease, lube or clean them based on what I've rented.
Still, sage advice you've offered, so thanks for that.
If I'd have thought it was dangerous or risk of slipping, I'd have used a different approach but it wasn't necessary. The photo doesn't show the lack of clearance due to the water pump and only being able to turn approximately 1/4 turn or so at a time.
As far as mistreatment of loaner tools which perhaps you seem to be implying, I don't believe I've ever returned a loaner tool in worse condition than I received and seem to be the only one who bothers to grease, lube or clean them based on what I've rented.
Still, sage advice you've offered, so thanks for that.
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