Astro AWD "Stroverlander"
- Thread starter Stroverlander
- Start date
Stroverlander
Adventurer
Ah right. I forgot you moved the tabs , I still have stock shock tabs and am looking for a longer shock rather than relocate the mounts . Thanks though .
Maybe give the Rancho RS7000MT monotube gas shocks a shot on the rear. Part number RS7112 is pretty much the same spec in travel, extended and compressed length as the RS999112 that I was going to run on the rear without relocating shock mounts except for the 2.75" diameter shock body being too large to fit the stock lower mount. The RS7000 monotube shock body is much smaller so those should work if you're around 4" of lift in the back.
Stroverlander
Adventurer
Thanks mapper, appreciate that!
Yes, start a thread and just fully commit to your Astro already. Once you realize she's the one, you'd cut down on your other vehicles and start giving her the time she deserves, lol.
Yes, start a thread and just fully commit to your Astro already. Once you realize she's the one, you'd cut down on your other vehicles and start giving her the time she deserves, lol.
Stroverlander
Adventurer
Higher Learning....
Having been on a quest to tighten up and rid Stroverlander of the somewhat loose feeling it had acquired over time with the degradation of stock rubber components, I continued on with replacing the stock rubber subframe / body mount bushings with Prothane 7108 urethane bushings (Energy Suspension 3.4116 also work). The mounts are not Astro-specific (80's Chevy pickups) but work great for these vans.
If you've installed body lift blocks then you know the procedure – loosen the three subframe bolts on each side, raise body on one side, remove spacers, shells and bushings. I set the body on wooden blocks for the time being as I wanted to refinish the metal bushing shells as I did with motor mount brackets.
The bushings disassembled with new Prothane bushings on the right. GM uses three different styles of bushings and metal cups and shells, starting from left and color coded:
Green Front M12x1.75 bolt
Red Middle M14x2.00 bolt
Yellow Rear, M12x1.75 bolt
*I had listed the incorrect bolt pitch for above and since edited, apologies! *
The old cracked and worn rubber bushings. The Prothane bushings are all one size/style being that they are sourced from a different application, however this doesn't affect installation at all. The bolts for 2” body lift included in Overland Vans lift kit are 130mm length, stock are 96mm.
Wanting to clean up and refinish the rusted parts like I did with the engine mount shells, I removed any flaking rust and then placed in Evapo-Rust solution overnight.
Evapo-Rust is great and I'm always satisfied with the result after soaking. Less hassle than manual rust removal and makes me feel like the chelation process is more like cheating...
Test fitting the Prothane bushings, not there yet though...
Primed and painted with Rustoleum flat-black and something else to try...
I thought this would be an opportune time to experiment with 3” body lift, so new 3x3” body lift spacers and 170mm length grade 10.9 hardware from local hardware supplier (160mm length bolts are ideal). I had done most of the prep work prior to this with the longer power steering lines and blocking the body at 3" height to check for any tight wiring, lines, hoses, etc.
OLV 2" spacer with 130mm bolt on left and 3" spacers with 170mm length bolts.
Front body mount and 3" spacer installed.
Middle
Rear
With the OLV 2” body lift bolts being 130mm length, I probably could have gone with 160mm length or so bolts for 3” lift and been fine. As is, I used grade 10.9 washers on each bolt and blue Loctite. According to service manual, center bolts get snugged down first then the remaining bolts and torqued to spec – (M14) center bolts 114 lb ft, (M12) end bolts 66 lb ft.
*Update* I recommend 160mm length bolts for 3" body lift spacers instead of the 170mm used, much less risk of running out of thread on the partially threaded bolts and not have to use multiple washers. *
The bushings compress quite a bit and so doesn't hurt to check the bolt torque again after a few hundred miles. Also, it is possible to flip the polyurethane bushing halves for the taller bushing on top but I didn't have any desire for additional lift with the 3" spacers. If I revert back to 2" body spacers, I may flip them and also lube the bushings if I feel it's necessary.
Next, I fixed the one inch gap in the front bumper to body spacing by raising the bumper an additional one inch. This was easy to do as the OLV bumper brackets have additional mounting holes for 3” body lift.
While again checking for any clearance issues or tightness, I couldn't help but notice how much easier spark plug access is through the wheelwells!
The 3” body spacers and new bushings gave the expected additional 1” of body lift measured at the front fender for 36” overall from ground to fender lip and even with the rear. I also have the option of reducing torsion lift, if I don't mind reducing ground clearance slightly.
tbc...
Having been on a quest to tighten up and rid Stroverlander of the somewhat loose feeling it had acquired over time with the degradation of stock rubber components, I continued on with replacing the stock rubber subframe / body mount bushings with Prothane 7108 urethane bushings (Energy Suspension 3.4116 also work). The mounts are not Astro-specific (80's Chevy pickups) but work great for these vans.
If you've installed body lift blocks then you know the procedure – loosen the three subframe bolts on each side, raise body on one side, remove spacers, shells and bushings. I set the body on wooden blocks for the time being as I wanted to refinish the metal bushing shells as I did with motor mount brackets.
The bushings disassembled with new Prothane bushings on the right. GM uses three different styles of bushings and metal cups and shells, starting from left and color coded:
Green Front M12x1.75 bolt
Red Middle M14x2.00 bolt
Yellow Rear, M12x1.75 bolt
*I had listed the incorrect bolt pitch for above and since edited, apologies! *
The old cracked and worn rubber bushings. The Prothane bushings are all one size/style being that they are sourced from a different application, however this doesn't affect installation at all. The bolts for 2” body lift included in Overland Vans lift kit are 130mm length, stock are 96mm.
Wanting to clean up and refinish the rusted parts like I did with the engine mount shells, I removed any flaking rust and then placed in Evapo-Rust solution overnight.
Evapo-Rust is great and I'm always satisfied with the result after soaking. Less hassle than manual rust removal and makes me feel like the chelation process is more like cheating...
Test fitting the Prothane bushings, not there yet though...
Primed and painted with Rustoleum flat-black and something else to try...
I thought this would be an opportune time to experiment with 3” body lift, so new 3x3” body lift spacers and 170mm length grade 10.9 hardware from local hardware supplier (160mm length bolts are ideal). I had done most of the prep work prior to this with the longer power steering lines and blocking the body at 3" height to check for any tight wiring, lines, hoses, etc.
OLV 2" spacer with 130mm bolt on left and 3" spacers with 170mm length bolts.
Front body mount and 3" spacer installed.
Middle
Rear
With the OLV 2” body lift bolts being 130mm length, I probably could have gone with 160mm length or so bolts for 3” lift and been fine. As is, I used grade 10.9 washers on each bolt and blue Loctite. According to service manual, center bolts get snugged down first then the remaining bolts and torqued to spec – (M14) center bolts 114 lb ft, (M12) end bolts 66 lb ft.
*Update* I recommend 160mm length bolts for 3" body lift spacers instead of the 170mm used, much less risk of running out of thread on the partially threaded bolts and not have to use multiple washers. *
The bushings compress quite a bit and so doesn't hurt to check the bolt torque again after a few hundred miles. Also, it is possible to flip the polyurethane bushing halves for the taller bushing on top but I didn't have any desire for additional lift with the 3" spacers. If I revert back to 2" body spacers, I may flip them and also lube the bushings if I feel it's necessary.
Next, I fixed the one inch gap in the front bumper to body spacing by raising the bumper an additional one inch. This was easy to do as the OLV bumper brackets have additional mounting holes for 3” body lift.
While again checking for any clearance issues or tightness, I couldn't help but notice how much easier spark plug access is through the wheelwells!
The 3” body spacers and new bushings gave the expected additional 1” of body lift measured at the front fender for 36” overall from ground to fender lip and even with the rear. I also have the option of reducing torsion lift, if I don't mind reducing ground clearance slightly.
tbc...
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Hondaslayer
Adventurer
That Evapo Rust does a damn good job! Almost as good as (if not as good as) electrolytic rust removal.
Stroverlander
Adventurer
So true! I'd like to figure out a way to use it on my subframe so I can refinish that eventually too.
Stroverlander
Adventurer
After the subframe bushing and spacer install, I checked the steering shaft to see where it was at length-wise and to make sure it wasn't over-extended. It's been said that 3” body lift is okay for the GenII AWD steering shaft but I wanted to be sure.
First, I ordered an OTC-J-42640 steering column lock pin tool ($12). The pin slots into the bottom of the steering column and prevents the steering wheel from turning and risk damaging the coil in the steering column.
While I probably wasn't going to be turning the steering wheel with the steering shaft removed, it was cheap insurance to prevent any risk of damage to the column internals.
So with lock pin installed, I unbolted and moved the fuse box out of the way and then the four screws holding the rubber protective boot from the top of the steering shaft and released the clip holding the boot onto the bottom of the shaft. One 11mm bolt each at the top and bottom of shaft and I could slide the shaft off the column and remove the rubber boot.
Here's the stock AWD steering shaft extended with 3” body lift. The inner shaft is extends out approximately 6”.
With lower mounting bolt removed, I pulled the shaft off the steering gear and removed from engine compartment. I thought steering shaft removal would be a bigger deal, turns out it's pretty easy and straightforward.
The fully extended length of stock AWD shaft is 12” overall but more importantly, the inner shaft is just about maxed out to the set screw stop at 6” extension with 1" of overlap in the shaft.
While I could probably drive it like this, it made sense to swap it out for a longer shaft with additional overlap since it would be so cheap and easy.
1997-2005 RWD Astro / Safari vans use a slightly longer steering shaft that would provide the necessary additional overlap. There is also the option to use an even longer shaft out of some Express and Savannah vans although the clocking is different on the splined steering gear end of shaft so would require tie-rod adjustment to re-center steering wheel after installation.
I picked up a used steering shaft out of a 1998 Astro RWD in good condition for $30. The RWD and AWD shafts are identical except for the RWD inner shaft being an additional 1 1/2" longer overall.
AWD: 20” overall and 6” inner shaft extended to stop
RWD 21” overall and 7” inner shaft extended to stop
RWD steering shaft disassembled, inner shaft is 8 1/2” overall. At 6” extended length installed, gives the RWD shaft 2 1/2” of overlap versus the 1" overlap of stock AWD shaft.
Identical splined ends makes for straightforward installation without any further adjustments required.
RWD shaft test-fit, same 6” length obviously but now with 2 1/2” overlap.
Last step was to extend the rubber boot 3” with 2” diameter pvc pipe secured with zipties.
Installed with boot extension and no clearance issues.
First, I ordered an OTC-J-42640 steering column lock pin tool ($12). The pin slots into the bottom of the steering column and prevents the steering wheel from turning and risk damaging the coil in the steering column.
While I probably wasn't going to be turning the steering wheel with the steering shaft removed, it was cheap insurance to prevent any risk of damage to the column internals.
So with lock pin installed, I unbolted and moved the fuse box out of the way and then the four screws holding the rubber protective boot from the top of the steering shaft and released the clip holding the boot onto the bottom of the shaft. One 11mm bolt each at the top and bottom of shaft and I could slide the shaft off the column and remove the rubber boot.
Here's the stock AWD steering shaft extended with 3” body lift. The inner shaft is extends out approximately 6”.
With lower mounting bolt removed, I pulled the shaft off the steering gear and removed from engine compartment. I thought steering shaft removal would be a bigger deal, turns out it's pretty easy and straightforward.
The fully extended length of stock AWD shaft is 12” overall but more importantly, the inner shaft is just about maxed out to the set screw stop at 6” extension with 1" of overlap in the shaft.
While I could probably drive it like this, it made sense to swap it out for a longer shaft with additional overlap since it would be so cheap and easy.
1997-2005 RWD Astro / Safari vans use a slightly longer steering shaft that would provide the necessary additional overlap. There is also the option to use an even longer shaft out of some Express and Savannah vans although the clocking is different on the splined steering gear end of shaft so would require tie-rod adjustment to re-center steering wheel after installation.
I picked up a used steering shaft out of a 1998 Astro RWD in good condition for $30. The RWD and AWD shafts are identical except for the RWD inner shaft being an additional 1 1/2" longer overall.
AWD: 20” overall and 6” inner shaft extended to stop
RWD 21” overall and 7” inner shaft extended to stop
RWD steering shaft disassembled, inner shaft is 8 1/2” overall. At 6” extended length installed, gives the RWD shaft 2 1/2” of overlap versus the 1" overlap of stock AWD shaft.
Identical splined ends makes for straightforward installation without any further adjustments required.
RWD shaft test-fit, same 6” length obviously but now with 2 1/2” overlap.
Last step was to extend the rubber boot 3” with 2” diameter pvc pipe secured with zipties.
Installed with boot extension and no clearance issues.
Hondaslayer
Adventurer
Stroverlander
Adventurer
I don't know why I didn't think of that! :REExeSwimmingHL:
If the Gulf and oceans were full of Evapo-Rust instead of salt water, I wouldn't have to worry about it!
If the Gulf and oceans were full of Evapo-Rust instead of salt water, I wouldn't have to worry about it!
Stroverlander
Adventurer
Nope, I removed them when I did 2" lift and never reinstalled. No issues without them and easier to clean and check for for things like leaks, damage, etc. I doubt they'd fit without modification now.
Hondaslayer
Adventurer
Stroverlander
Adventurer
Boring little detail that does make a difference...
With the lift, the exhaust system had become somewhat rigid and inflexible due to the stock insulators/hangers being stretched to their max. I didn't have to do much research as this had already been done previously on A/S forum. I ordered four Walker 35296 rubber exhaust insulators from Amazon ($9 each) that fit mid 90's Toyota trucks. The Walker isolators have four adjustment holes so can fine-tune fit for given amount of lift. The stock isolators have a bonded metal shell whereas the Walker isolators do not but I don't foresee that being an issue.
Because I looked at a parts diagram rather than crawling underneath the van to check, I ordered four isolators as mentioned because I misinterpreted a parts diagram rather than crawling under the van to verify. Turns out only three are required for my 2004 but it worked out in the end.
New Walker 35296 and stock isolators. No photos with stock isolators installed and showing how stressed they were.
To install, I drilled out the holes on the new isolators slightly larger with a 1/2” bit, supported the exhaust on a jack and then pried the stock isolators off the hangers. I sprayed a little lube to aid installation of the new isolators onto the hangers. After a little test fitting, I decided to position the hangers in the top and bottom holes of the isolators as this allowed the exhaust to drop down into what felt like the most natural position, allowing for some movement of the exhaust without feeling too low.
Catalytic converter to front muffler.
Rear of muffler to tailpipe.
Previously, the tailpipe had minimal clearance under the leaf spring, now with plenty.
Since I had an extra isolator leftover and it looked like there was enough room, I doubled up the isolators on the hanger that seemed like it was supporting the most weight.
Because I liked the added security of two isolators on each hanger so much, I ordered two additional Walker isolators to install on the other hangers. I doubt it was necessary but no harm in a little extra support.
With the lift, the exhaust system had become somewhat rigid and inflexible due to the stock insulators/hangers being stretched to their max. I didn't have to do much research as this had already been done previously on A/S forum. I ordered four Walker 35296 rubber exhaust insulators from Amazon ($9 each) that fit mid 90's Toyota trucks. The Walker isolators have four adjustment holes so can fine-tune fit for given amount of lift. The stock isolators have a bonded metal shell whereas the Walker isolators do not but I don't foresee that being an issue.
Because I looked at a parts diagram rather than crawling underneath the van to check, I ordered four isolators as mentioned because I misinterpreted a parts diagram rather than crawling under the van to verify. Turns out only three are required for my 2004 but it worked out in the end.
New Walker 35296 and stock isolators. No photos with stock isolators installed and showing how stressed they were.
To install, I drilled out the holes on the new isolators slightly larger with a 1/2” bit, supported the exhaust on a jack and then pried the stock isolators off the hangers. I sprayed a little lube to aid installation of the new isolators onto the hangers. After a little test fitting, I decided to position the hangers in the top and bottom holes of the isolators as this allowed the exhaust to drop down into what felt like the most natural position, allowing for some movement of the exhaust without feeling too low.
Catalytic converter to front muffler.
Rear of muffler to tailpipe.
Previously, the tailpipe had minimal clearance under the leaf spring, now with plenty.
Since I had an extra isolator leftover and it looked like there was enough room, I doubled up the isolators on the hanger that seemed like it was supporting the most weight.
Because I liked the added security of two isolators on each hanger so much, I ordered two additional Walker isolators to install on the other hangers. I doubt it was necessary but no harm in a little extra support.
Stroverlander
Adventurer
I've been meaning to install a longer center rear brake hose for a while now and wanted to bleed the brakes and clean out the fluid reservoir so finally got around to cross-referencing a longer GM brake hose.
I ended up with a Dorman H380520 from a 2004 S10 ZR2, cost was $13 from Amazon so pretty cheap experiment if didn't work out. This line is 2.75" longer than stock with the same fittings on each end. I went with Dorman because they list lengths in their specs which made it quite a bit easier to source a longer replacement hose.
This hose and the hard line to the abs pump are the only rusted lines on the van, not sure why but the hard line is the only one not coated and prone to rusting and eventually failing. I've read too many horror stories of line failure on A/S forums and so planning on replacing the hard line with Cunifer or other copper/nickel type brake line soon. Not looking forward to that one...
This end is sandwiched between two brackets bolted to the rear end cover. I started with lots of penetrating lube before breaking the fittings free.
One difference I encountered on this end of the fitting is the tab location has a different offset. Hmmm...
Turned out to be a quick and simple modification by filing a new slot in the bracket with the edge of a file.
After test fitting, I did have to go back and enlarge the slot to allow for a bit better hose position.
Installed and gave the rear differential vent line some extra slack as well.
I ended up with a Dorman H380520 from a 2004 S10 ZR2, cost was $13 from Amazon so pretty cheap experiment if didn't work out. This line is 2.75" longer than stock with the same fittings on each end. I went with Dorman because they list lengths in their specs which made it quite a bit easier to source a longer replacement hose.
This hose and the hard line to the abs pump are the only rusted lines on the van, not sure why but the hard line is the only one not coated and prone to rusting and eventually failing. I've read too many horror stories of line failure on A/S forums and so planning on replacing the hard line with Cunifer or other copper/nickel type brake line soon. Not looking forward to that one...
This end is sandwiched between two brackets bolted to the rear end cover. I started with lots of penetrating lube before breaking the fittings free.
One difference I encountered on this end of the fitting is the tab location has a different offset. Hmmm...
Turned out to be a quick and simple modification by filing a new slot in the bracket with the edge of a file.
After test fitting, I did have to go back and enlarge the slot to allow for a bit better hose position.
Installed and gave the rear differential vent line some extra slack as well.
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Wow! Thank you so much for documenting all of your efforts, the documenting probably took as much work as the actual hands on work. I'm seriously considering buying an Astro AWD and doing the usual lift kit, wheels, tires, etc, not to mention all the deferred maint type items you've been busy on. Your post will save countless hours for folks like me.
I posted on ASV.org (catching on to the lingo is half the battle!) asking about room in the cargo area, got some great info, somehow found this thread during my late night internet wanderings. Learning, learning, learning.
And all of your work looks just like what I've been doing to my '88 928 over the years. I just can't put a filthy or rusty part back on, nor can I resist the "while I am in there" repairs. Takes extra time now but pays off big time later, and for resale too of course. Here's my kid helping me out with getting a fresh coat of paint on my brake calipers. She's quiet a bit bigger now. Wow, time flies.
Nice work, and again, thanks. -Ed
Ps: thanks for the reminder on the Evapo-Rust! I keep forgetting I want to get some and try it out.
I posted on ASV.org (catching on to the lingo is half the battle!) asking about room in the cargo area, got some great info, somehow found this thread during my late night internet wanderings. Learning, learning, learning.
And all of your work looks just like what I've been doing to my '88 928 over the years. I just can't put a filthy or rusty part back on, nor can I resist the "while I am in there" repairs. Takes extra time now but pays off big time later, and for resale too of course. Here's my kid helping me out with getting a fresh coat of paint on my brake calipers. She's quiet a bit bigger now. Wow, time flies.
Nice work, and again, thanks. -Ed
Ps: thanks for the reminder on the Evapo-Rust! I keep forgetting I want to get some and try it out.
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