AT IT AGAIN: Paul and Mike Convert a Mid/Tall T1N Sprinter Cargo
- Thread starter mhiscox
- Start date
landyachtcaptn
Observer
Great job guys and keep those pics coming. I love the wood and glass combo great stuff.
PaulJensen
Custom Builder
The upper cabinets go from the ceiling to 1/2" above the windows...14" overall...The depth is 8.5", about the same as the old cabinet that came out...The door openings are about 12" high...There is full access to the lower rounded part of the cabinets below the door opening...3" deep is what it is...The roll-up doors take up only 1/4" from the front and ceiling...Not much really...
PaulJensen
Custom Builder
#13
(above) The tabletop was cut where the hinges will go on the tablesaw...
(above) The Soss hinges are set deep into the wood...A jig for the router simplifies to morticing process...Even with that, it's slow going, caution and full attention are the reality...
I'm using a rolling scaffolding for a clamping base...Nice work height and with the stepped clamping areas the work is held tight...It could not be better...
(above) Hole number one of four is done...Whew...
(above) The Soss hinges and the walnut were left over from a year-long custom tile and woodworking job I did a few years ago for one of the heirs to the DeBeers diamond clan...Custom House...It's nice to use these kind of left-overs that work perfectly for the current project...Saves the client money too...I'll end up with scraps from this job that I'll use on someone elses job later...It's just how it is...
(above) Two down, two to go...
(above) When the chips stopped flying the test fit was close to perfect...
(above) Here's how it works...Tabletop stored in a cabinet (Imagine that's a cabinet)...
(above) Pull the 'unit' out...
(above) Rotate the tabletop 270 degrees...
(above) Fold over the tabletop...Done...In the picture there are no screws at all holding the hinges in...It's just going to get stronger with screws...
(above) In the van...I need to put in some kind of catch or pin to keep the tabletop from wanting to rotate...That's the easy stuff after all that came before...
IF, there was an extra two inches of storage to spare in the cabinet, another set of drawer guides could be installed between the lazy susan and the tabletop, to allow the tabletop to slide further forward to increase the usability of the tabletop...It all comes down to priorities...What do you want to gain...???...What are you willing to give...???...
(above) Half way ready to go back in the cabinet...
(above) Stored...I'll add a drop down drawer face later...
(above) Fighting the urge for a celebratory beer after the drawer in a table victory, it was back in the shop to move the bed platform drawers further along...Here the plywood drawer guide supports are glued and nailed to the case...
(above) The toekick fixed panel where the inverter is, is glued and nailed in place, then the end panel was routered...
(above) The drawer face panels are pin-nailed in place waiting for the drawer boxed to be fitted and attached to them...
It's dark outside, I guess that means it's another day done...Now where's that beer...???...
(above) The tabletop was cut where the hinges will go on the tablesaw...
(above) The Soss hinges are set deep into the wood...A jig for the router simplifies to morticing process...Even with that, it's slow going, caution and full attention are the reality...
I'm using a rolling scaffolding for a clamping base...Nice work height and with the stepped clamping areas the work is held tight...It could not be better...
(above) Hole number one of four is done...Whew...
(above) The Soss hinges and the walnut were left over from a year-long custom tile and woodworking job I did a few years ago for one of the heirs to the DeBeers diamond clan...Custom House...It's nice to use these kind of left-overs that work perfectly for the current project...Saves the client money too...I'll end up with scraps from this job that I'll use on someone elses job later...It's just how it is...
(above) Two down, two to go...
(above) When the chips stopped flying the test fit was close to perfect...
(above) Here's how it works...Tabletop stored in a cabinet (Imagine that's a cabinet)...
(above) Pull the 'unit' out...
(above) Rotate the tabletop 270 degrees...
(above) Fold over the tabletop...Done...In the picture there are no screws at all holding the hinges in...It's just going to get stronger with screws...
(above) In the van...I need to put in some kind of catch or pin to keep the tabletop from wanting to rotate...That's the easy stuff after all that came before...
IF, there was an extra two inches of storage to spare in the cabinet, another set of drawer guides could be installed between the lazy susan and the tabletop, to allow the tabletop to slide further forward to increase the usability of the tabletop...It all comes down to priorities...What do you want to gain...???...What are you willing to give...???...
(above) Half way ready to go back in the cabinet...
(above) Stored...I'll add a drop down drawer face later...
(above) Fighting the urge for a celebratory beer after the drawer in a table victory, it was back in the shop to move the bed platform drawers further along...Here the plywood drawer guide supports are glued and nailed to the case...
(above) The toekick fixed panel where the inverter is, is glued and nailed in place, then the end panel was routered...
(above) The drawer face panels are pin-nailed in place waiting for the drawer boxed to be fitted and attached to them...
It's dark outside, I guess that means it's another day done...Now where's that beer...???...
Last edited:
PaulJensen
Custom Builder
#13
(above) Time to build drawer boxes...I avoid measuring as much as possible...Instead I prefer to use 'story poles'...Direct transfer of the opening size onto a wood strip...From that I'll get my measurements then make my cut list...
(above) Since I use box joints, the plywood for the cabinet boxes are cut to the true box width and length...No compensating for rabbets...
(above) On a tablesaw with a dado blade, the pins and notches are cut...Assembly will come later...
(above) The painting of the cabinets will get done in here...It's fully wrapped and taped tight, heated, and is isolated from the dust zone that is my shop...
(above) The paint bench is plywood on top of my upside down surfboard shaping stand...It's stable, it works...
(above) The first coat of three finish coats was just sprayed with a HVLP spray gun...My heated van is a drying room...It's there, it's big enough, it's dust free and did I mention, it's heated...
(above) After the sawing and sanding was done for the day, the kitchen base cabinet is moved into the heated shop to dry...
(above) The Shadow sprays the first coat of semi-gloss on the curb-side lower cabinet...
(above) End of the day in the shop...Another day of solid progress...More fun tomorrow...
(above) Time to build drawer boxes...I avoid measuring as much as possible...Instead I prefer to use 'story poles'...Direct transfer of the opening size onto a wood strip...From that I'll get my measurements then make my cut list...
(above) Since I use box joints, the plywood for the cabinet boxes are cut to the true box width and length...No compensating for rabbets...
(above) On a tablesaw with a dado blade, the pins and notches are cut...Assembly will come later...
(above) The painting of the cabinets will get done in here...It's fully wrapped and taped tight, heated, and is isolated from the dust zone that is my shop...
(above) The paint bench is plywood on top of my upside down surfboard shaping stand...It's stable, it works...
(above) The first coat of three finish coats was just sprayed with a HVLP spray gun...My heated van is a drying room...It's there, it's big enough, it's dust free and did I mention, it's heated...
(above) After the sawing and sanding was done for the day, the kitchen base cabinet is moved into the heated shop to dry...
(above) The Shadow sprays the first coat of semi-gloss on the curb-side lower cabinet...
(above) End of the day in the shop...Another day of solid progress...More fun tomorrow...
PaulJensen
Custom Builder
Bull's Eye brand - Oil base primer...Three coats rolled and brushed on...Puttying and sanding between layers...
Sherwin Williams 'Pro Classic' semi-gloss acrylic latex - smooth enamel finish...Three coats...Sanding as needed...
Upper cabinet color - #7015 "Repose Grey"
Lower cabinet color - #7018 "Dovetail"
(above) What I use...Campbell Hausfeld HV2500 58 CFM Fine Finish HVLP Paint Sprayer...
PaulJensen
Custom Builder
#15
(above) With all of the drawer parts cut out, the box joints cut, everything given a quick 40 grit belt sanding...After that it was fast work to glue, nail, and staple the drawer boxes together...
(above) Let them dry for a day before more sanding and routering...
(above) The dust making in the shop was done early for the day, so it made sense to move the paint booth back in there...Color coat #2 is being sprayed here...
(above) Looking good, but they need at least one, maybe two more coats...At this point, spraying on extra coats is easy...
(above) The roll-up doors were hot glued with a spot of glue on the ends...Makes painting between the slats a snap...
(above) While the paint was drying, the fold over tabletop got the needed bullet catch to keep it from rotating when fully opened and another stop was added to keep it aligned when it is folded close to slide back in the cabinet...An easy fix...
(above) First thing in the morning, these will get the smoothing over treatment...The drawer hardware will be here tomorrow too...It's all coming together on schedule...
(above) With all of the drawer parts cut out, the box joints cut, everything given a quick 40 grit belt sanding...After that it was fast work to glue, nail, and staple the drawer boxes together...
(above) Let them dry for a day before more sanding and routering...
(above) The dust making in the shop was done early for the day, so it made sense to move the paint booth back in there...Color coat #2 is being sprayed here...
(above) Looking good, but they need at least one, maybe two more coats...At this point, spraying on extra coats is easy...
(above) The roll-up doors were hot glued with a spot of glue on the ends...Makes painting between the slats a snap...
(above) While the paint was drying, the fold over tabletop got the needed bullet catch to keep it from rotating when fully opened and another stop was added to keep it aligned when it is folded close to slide back in the cabinet...An easy fix...
(above) First thing in the morning, these will get the smoothing over treatment...The drawer hardware will be here tomorrow too...It's all coming together on schedule...
PaulJensen
Custom Builder
Same walnut as the fold over table...
rockbender
Adventurer
I like that you just glued/nailed the drawer bottoms. I think I recall dadoing mine and in retrospect see that I probably lost a 1/4" - 1/2" of depth on each drawer. Very nice joints - did you just use regular wood glue for this assembly or is this epoxied also?
